JDM_ego2033

Im rebuilding my civics GSR engine and plan on replacing all the gaskets, seals and bolts. I believe i spun a bearing so im also planning on doing the rod bearings as well. Im getting the head and block machined as well. Right now i have a 84.5mm head gasket (cylinders are bored) from golden eagle, arp head studs, and ferrea valves. as for the valves im hearing to go over sized for future boost set ups. im pulling the engine apart and sending it out to be machined as well as have the valves put in. is there anything else i should replace or look at while its out? and what should i look for exactly if i spun a bearing in regards to the block and crank

JRCivic1

Is this a sleeved block ??? There is no reason to use larger diameter valves unless you are intending to make really big power. Remember that increasing the valve diameter will increase the chances of valve-to-valve and valve-to-piston contact and it reduces the space between the edge of the valve and the cylinder wall/combustion chamber... called shrouding. "De-shrouding" is the process required to fix this self-inflicted issue when you increase valve diameter.

JDM_ego2033

It is a sleeved block. I dont plan on making crazy big power like a drag car but i do plan on boosting it in the future. right now its leaking from just about everywhere including the head gasket but no overheating yet its just blowing white smoke out like crazy. and i belive i have a spun bearing around cylinder 1 or 2 so thats why i plan on doing a rebuild. and for power after i get the car safe and running again i plan on going with better cams, a turbo, performance fuel pump and injectors and all that. im more concerned about everything iw ould need to get it running again for right now but while i have the engine apart do the clutch as well. and also i should have noted it has golden eagle rods and either golden eagle or arias pistons idk for sure just yet and it is sleeved

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I too would skip the over sized valves and just have a reputable cylinder head shop go through the head to check everything and only fix what needs fixing. Send the block and crank to the machine shop and they will let you know if you did any damage, and if they can/ how much it will cost to fix it.

You may want to consider replacing the oil pump, depending on how old it is, and if you did spin a bearing.

JDM_ego2033

oil pump and water pump i do plan on replacing as well. i basically want to replace everything while the engine is torn apart and do a few upgrades while im there. like i said i plan on boosting in the future and for now do what needs to be done for a rebuild and on top of that do things like valves and a stage 3 clutch while its apart. ill paste a list of roughly what im looking to get for the rebuild. if theres anything im forgetting please let me know ive been going back and forth to it because i keep drawing a blank while im sitting trying to write out the list in full lmao. and btw the GSR bell housing is because i hit a rock in the road and im leaking gear oil out of it. i believe its just the bell housing but i might need to look into a new trans. and would you recommend a performance oil pump or would GSR oem work just fine?

Cometic 84.5 head gasket: $89
https://www.euroexportinc.com/84-5mm...ura-b18c-b16a/

Rod bearings: $80 +/-

GSR transmission bell housing: $199.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-Integ...-/122997247092

Supertech Turbo valves: $255
https://www.ebay.com/i/321402169420?chn=ps

Machine shop for head and block + balance: $1000 +/-

Blox clutch master cylinder: $165
https://www.ebay.com/p/Blox-Racing-C...6899612&thm=10

clutch masters clutch kit: $436.50
https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...gaAlkUEALw_wcB

Light weight flywheel: $245.70
https://www.kseriesparts.com/ACR-AC1...saAgYAEALw_wcB

CTR crank pulley: $94.95
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-HONDA-E...5.c10#viTabs_0

DaX

iTrader: (1)

For the oil pump, I would only do OEM - do not roll the dice with anything else. I think some places sell OEM pumps that have been ported and shimmed, but you'd probably be fine with a regular OEM pump.

If tearing the engine down, don't forget to budget for the small things - seals, gaskets, o-rings, coolant hoses, filters, fluids, etc. - this stuff can add up if you aren't expecting it. Be prepared to do a thread repair or two. If you're going to turbocharge in the future, go ahead and have a bung welded into your oil pan while it is off, and you can just run a -10AN cap on the bung until you decide to turbocharge.

If you're opening the transmission, go ahead and plan to replace the seals if they need it. At a minimum I would visually inspect everything, paying close attention to the teeth on the synchro rings and the corresponding teeth on the gears. Also check the synchro ring to gear clearance. Replace bearings / synchros / sleeves / hubs as required. Clean off the magnet.

JDM_ego2033

your right about the gaskets and seals and all the little things. i dont have them written in the budget but i do plan on replacing all of that so ill try and price everything out to get a good idea as to how much that will cost. as for oil pan i think im gonna replace it altogether later on when i do the actual turbo setup