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Hello all I have an em1 with the B16A2 engine in it, I have been running it on low boost for a while and I ended up spinning a rod bearing. Now I did my research on engine bearing failures and this one looks like it was due to oil starvation. I am looking for a oil flow diagram so I can backtrack from the failed bearing and find the root of my problem. By the way this engine was completely overhauled only about 5k-10k miles ago because of a spun rod bearing. I don't remember for sure if it's the same journal as before but it's very possible and likely it is
Last edited by qweasy; 03-28-2016 at 04:17 AM.
Reason: adding pictures
did you install a new OEM oil pump last time you rebuilt? how high were you revving the motor? what type of oil was used? changed regularly?
I re-used the oil pump. I cleaned it up good. I have my rev limit at 8500rpm. and I was using Mobil 10w30 changed regularly. I have beat on it pretty hard but I would expect it to last a lot longer than this...
Edit: I have an oil pressure gauge in the car and its always had great oil pressure
Yea just trying to find something obvious as I dont have any sort of diagram and not sure how much that would help.
I would be more suspicious of poor oil pressure, Oil getting too hot, revving at high RPMs when low on oil ETC.
Im using synthetic on my currrent build but have not hit the streets yet.
Aftermarket bearings?
I'm not sure what brand the bearings were. I got them from the machine shop that turned the crank and machined the rods. I'm sure they were a reputable brand
if the crank was not turned, I would guess lack of maintenance and/or high revving while low on oil would be the cause. these are the top two reasons for honda bearing failures under 200k miles. third would be a rebuilt engine with improper clearances and/or rod big end bores being warped or stretched, whether it be rod bolt stretch or rod cap flex or warpage from heat.
but yeah, I can say with absolute certainty it failed because the crank was turned
I have NEVER seen a honda crank that was turned NOT spin/roast a bearing/journal
Damn my crank was turned, I was always suspicious about this and the shop ensured me it would have no affect, I no longer use that shop for other reasons good to know
Damn my crank was turned, I was always suspicious about this and the shop ensured me it would have no affect, I no longer use that shop for other reasons good to know
sorry.
most machine shops don't specialise in hondas, and often assume they can be turned like any other manufacturer. IE: jeep, gm, chrysler, ford, etc.
Meaning you can polish AND harden??? How do they harden a crank? Just trying to learn a bit more
no. the guy above me said they are nitride coated from the factory. I meant they are also hardened from the factory, and thats one of the bigger reasons you can't turn a honda crank, it's nearly impossible to find someone that can harden it again after grinding
no. the guy above me said they are nitride coated from the factory. I meant they are also hardened from the factory, and thats one of the bigger reasons you can't turn a honda crank, it's nearly impossible to find someone that can harden it again after grinding
Noted. Good information thanks. Has anyone ever used a knife edged crank and is it worth it? Ive heard it makes the engine Rev a lot easier so more power can be produced but I've never had the chance to experience one. Anyone had this done?
I've known a few people that did it, but none of those motors lasted very long. even though it was balanced on its own, it makes it not longer balanced as an assembly, especially with heavier aftermarket rods
I've known a few people that did it, but none of those motors lasted very long. even though it was balanced on its own, it makes it not longer balanced as an assembly, especially with heavier aftermarket rods
So is a better way to go with a whole kit like say an eagle stroker kit that's a whole balanced assembly with a lightened crankshaft?
There should be plenty of oem b16 cranks floating around for cheap, best option. They are stronger then Eagle cranks. Make sure to use a good bearing like ACL Race or oem. Don't run aluminum or dual metal bearings. You can cut a crank but to get it back up to oem standard its about 400-500 bucks so if you didn't pay that kind of dough, it was certainly an issue of the crank. But really you need more info like bearing clearance to get a real answer on your problems. Good luck
03-28-2016, 03:52 AM
oil flow diagram?
