Back in 2015 i bought a bare Type R block with the intention of fully building it. Decided on a all motor build & i bought almost everything new sadly the original 'R' crank had a spun rod bearing and i got it as pictured.





After about 1 year of it sitting I finally purchased all the performance parts for the short block, heres the parts list so far

89mm Ls crank
137mm BC lw Rods
81mm Cp pistons 12.5:1 compression
Acl race bearings Std size
Exedy stage 2 clutch kit
10lbs light flywheel
Street edition ATI Super damper
Golden Eagle block Gaurd
Golden eagle oil Squirters delete
Arp flywheel bolts
Arp pressure plate bolts
Arp crank pulley bolt
Arp main studs bolts
Arp head studs bolts
Arp timing tensioner bolt
Gates racing timing belt
I sold the Moroso oil pan due to not being able to use the OEM ITR tranmission brace bracket.


I also bought new almost everything i was missing from the bare block from Acura such as new oil pump, water pump, tensioner, baffle plate, pick up tube the whole 9 yards. Heres a picture



And now well instarted messing with it trying tonput it together but im running into a issue the 89mm ls crank is virgin uncut all std size 55mm main journals & 45mm rod journals. But when i torque down the main caps with the crank inside im getting a issue with clearances.

Im useing the Arp main stud kit and Arp recomends 80lbs im going 25lbs, then 45lbs then lastly 80lbs. With the new Acl race bearings & im useing Green plastic gage but its coming out to crushed beyond the .025 mark. I cleaned the block main journals well, as well as the main caps including the bearings & crank main journals also. Sprayed lots of brake cleaner with clean shop rag paper towels. And it comes out to tight has anyone had this issue before? What am i doing wrong. Heres a few pictures.











Pictured is the 89mm LS crank i will be useing on the B18C5 with the ARP main studs before during & after plastic gage measuring. Dont know if im the only with this issue is anyone can help id appricate it alot! Just trying to get this done

 

Why did you use arp studs instead of OEM? that was your mistake. You have absolutely no need for them what so ever. Now, as far as I can tell, ARP studs have a higher clamping force than oem bolts therefore tightening the tolerances. I'm pretty sure you need to lign hone the block to properly use the studs. Get rid of them and use OEM. Hope it helps.

 

Well i put assembly lube & torqued it down to 80lbs and tried rotating it and it would rotate but it would be to tuff & strong so i de torqued it and restarted again. Did 25lbs then 40lbs then on caps 2-4 i did 49lbs & caps 1 & 5 i did 56lbs. With that the crank moved alot more freely to the point where i could turn it with my hands on either side.

I went with the Arp main studs because i bought them on a deal & i didnt get any bolts with the block when i first purchased it as i stated before thats how i recieved it. It was literally bare with no bolts just a bad OE crank, main caps & oil cooler.

So basicly at OE torque specs. (Caps 1 & 5 56lbs & caps 2-4 49lbs) it spins freely and doesnt feel to agressively tight.

Following the specifications of ARP instructions of 80lbs all caps 1-5 its way to tight & won't let me turn it easily.

 

Like king mentioned, to switch to ARP studs, you have to have a machine shop line hone the short block.

Not only does it increase the clamping force but it takes it out of round too. Once honed with the ARP, you cannot go back to OEM without another hone. etc. It's very persnickety that way.

 

Maybe a dumb question but can i just leave the arp studs torqued at oem honda specs instead of arp 80lbs ?

 

Back the third step torque spec to 60 ft/lbs on caps 1 thru 5 and check your plastigauge again. 80 ft/lbs distorts the main cap shape and causes increased squish... reducing the oil clearance on the mains. You can, as suggested by others above, have the main caps re honed to spec after torquing the main studs to 80 ft/lbs... but there are a host of issues that come with doing this step.

If you back the torque spec down to the OE specs, the studs will be no stronger than the factory bolts would... so you would essentially only have them just to say you have them... there would be no advantage to having them.