b18a1 first start
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From: Texas
b18a1 first start
Ok so I have my engine fully built. Wiseco pistons eagle rods. valve train is brian crower. cylinder walls have been honed. going to run it NA at first before I boost it. what break in oil is a good break in oil to go with? its a b18a1 swap ive put in my Integra. any brands you guys recommend? and how many miles should I run on break in oil? first engine ive built so i want to run it safely as possible. and i have crower turbo cams in right now. will it run on these cams? or do i need to swap in some oem ones? i ran 9.6.1 compression. ive been told it will still run without a tune on this compression. any advice or tips will be appreciated. thanks
ive also read that when you have arp main studs you have to get the bottom decked/ honed? What do you think guys. I'll pull the swap out if this is something I really need to do.
ive also read that when you have arp main studs you have to get the bottom decked/ honed? What do you think guys. I'll pull the swap out if this is something I really need to do.
Last edited by lolv8s; Nov 13, 2016 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Details
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
Re: b18a1 first start
the compression wouldnt necessitate a tune but the cams very well could. you should really have some sort of management that you can tune with...
use non detergent 30 wt. run the car for 10-15 minutes between 1500 and like 2500 rpm while you bleed the coolant system, make sure the fan comes on. its very important to keep the afr as close to stoich as possible during this time and that its not to rich or lean. then idle it down and set the ignition timing. turn it off and change that oil and filter. you can go with conventional oil at this point. i woud change that oil after a few hundred miles, then the next change around 1000 miles should be good for normal intervals beyond that. after it cools back down turn it on and go tune it loading the motor and seating the rings the rest of the way. you really need that engine management.
i think with arp mains you should have it line bored, or at least checked for out of round. i also believe you should have the studs installed and tq'd when you have the cylinders honed. honestly you dont need them at all, a fresh set of oems will be fine for many hundreds of horsepower..
use non detergent 30 wt. run the car for 10-15 minutes between 1500 and like 2500 rpm while you bleed the coolant system, make sure the fan comes on. its very important to keep the afr as close to stoich as possible during this time and that its not to rich or lean. then idle it down and set the ignition timing. turn it off and change that oil and filter. you can go with conventional oil at this point. i woud change that oil after a few hundred miles, then the next change around 1000 miles should be good for normal intervals beyond that. after it cools back down turn it on and go tune it loading the motor and seating the rings the rest of the way. you really need that engine management.
i think with arp mains you should have it line bored, or at least checked for out of round. i also believe you should have the studs installed and tq'd when you have the cylinders honed. honestly you dont need them at all, a fresh set of oems will be fine for many hundreds of horsepower..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 504
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Re: b18a1 first start
the compression wouldnt necessitate a tune but the cams very well could. you should really have some sort of management that you can tune with...
use non detergent 30 wt. run the car for 10-15 minutes between 1500 and like 2500 rpm while you bleed the coolant system, make sure the fan comes on. its very important to keep the afr as close to stoich as possible during this time and that its not to rich or lean. then idle it down and set the ignition timing. turn it off and change that oil and filter. you can go with conventional oil at this point. i woud change that oil after a few hundred miles, then the next change around 1000 miles should be good for normal intervals beyond that. after it cools back down turn it on and go tune it loading the motor and seating the rings the rest of the way. you really need that engine management.
i think with arp mains you should have it line bored, or at least checked for out of round. i also believe you should have the studs installed and tq'd when you have the cylinders honed. honestly you dont need them at all, a fresh set of oems will be fine for many hundreds of horsepower..
use non detergent 30 wt. run the car for 10-15 minutes between 1500 and like 2500 rpm while you bleed the coolant system, make sure the fan comes on. its very important to keep the afr as close to stoich as possible during this time and that its not to rich or lean. then idle it down and set the ignition timing. turn it off and change that oil and filter. you can go with conventional oil at this point. i woud change that oil after a few hundred miles, then the next change around 1000 miles should be good for normal intervals beyond that. after it cools back down turn it on and go tune it loading the motor and seating the rings the rest of the way. you really need that engine management.
i think with arp mains you should have it line bored, or at least checked for out of round. i also believe you should have the studs installed and tq'd when you have the cylinders honed. honestly you dont need them at all, a fresh set of oems will be fine for many hundreds of horsepower..
Last edited by lolv8s; Nov 21, 2016 at 05:07 AM.
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