gonna try to keep this short as possible.

S2P3s B series STANDARD SIZE VALVES

set the gears to 0....set the lash to 0.. Wrapped the belt around the gears and rotated them.... they hit.
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Did what S2 recommended +2 IN -2.5 EX Hit

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So after a couple more major adjustments... Need a 11 degree spread to get the .040 V2V i want.
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the spread seems a little extreme.
I think i should be doing the V2V with the lash set...but so far everybody says to 0 lash them... also the EX valves have a massive margin...
Does all this seem right. never seen such a drastic degree change to get the V2V i want.

 

POS computer....anyway these are the pics that got me to the .040.... With this setting the IN CL is 113 and the EX CL is 103.5 which is not even close to the 100/104 thats recommended

 

What does it come out if you do set the lash?

I would say the lash is there for heat expansion basically right? So you want to degree and do your clearances with the lash at 0 for worse case scenario.

 

didnt do it with lash.... it will change it but like you said... V2V will decrease as the lash is taken up by the heat.

 

Iam not dead set on using the 100/104 CLs but it needs to be somewhat close

 

Is cam timing in the correct position? Sounds like it may be off a tooth.

Stefan

 

Lash isnt for heat. Its for rpm. If you make the lash too tight at higher rpm it will cause the valves to float. Lash will slap the valve shut at rpm giving a better seal. Too much lash causes the vavle to bounce.

 

Interesting, then why are most recommended settings looser on the exhaust side of things? I always thought that was do to the exhaust side of the motor being hotter, but what you said makes sense too.

 

The reason is some heat but more that exhaust will have carbon build up so it need the extra "slap" lol.

Heat is worth .0002 at best.

 

the notices lash on closing ?

 

Lift as well but it more important to have the valve close fully (compression) then opening.

 

so i should check it with lash.... it will obiously make a big difference

 

I would try it and see what you come up with. I think that S2 says 0 lash is to give you more cleanance when assembled.
Randy Owens would know more about that then I. Maybe PM him.

 

Thanks

 

Skunk2 doesn't recommend the exhaust cam to be retarded.

You want at LEAST 4 degrees seperation between the intake and exhaust. Majority of the time, 99% of the time, the exhaust cam will be MORE advanced then the intake.

Start @ +1 INT and +4 exhaust, since you're using GE cam gears. You'll also want at least .030 clearence between as well.

I recommend using VL .007 INT / .009 EXH

 

for a fact S2 rep on the phone said "try +2in and -2.5ex see where that gets you"...

 

so your recommending to check V2V with the lash set in and a min of .030 V2V. if this is the case it might get me to an acceptable #

 

I highly doubt that.. if they did, they had a brain fart. You can message "skunk2brian" to confirm what I'm saying.. I've degree and put in too many pro2's and pro3's to not know this.

All pro series cams will require the exhaust to be advanced more then the intake, unless you actually know your clearances this is the drop in settings that skunk2 will tell you.

Stock centerlines are 98/103
PRO3 centerlines are 100/104 or 106


Skunk2 uses TDC lift method. Set lash @ 0 and degree away, START @ +1 INT / +4 EXH. I recommend to my customers and everyone else that you have a minimal of .030 clearance between valves...thats just me though. Use what i'm telling you and you won't have any problems.

 

the problem is in order to get the v2v to .040 the spread on the cams needs to be 11 degrees... its impossible to get to those centerlines while maintaining the .040 v2v

 

Why you need .040?..

As long as you go more then .030 you should be ok..

retard your intake more..

 

cause the word SHOULD... lol its not my engine if it were it be in the car already...
frre free to text or call 239 438 5267 i can explain the situation iam having alot eaiser

 

I say should because MOST of the time, .030 is enough for most motors..

 

what size valves are in the head? recheck it. 11' sounds wrong

 

.030" v2v is plenty .040" is playing it WAY too safe.

 

from doin this recently i know the lash will change the specs alot...make sure 0 lash is really 0 and that the valves arent a lil open...mines looked like they were at 0 lash but when i put a flash light on the bottom i could see that it was open tru the intake port so i backed it out till it was fully closed