I know this isn't really a honda thing since they aren't any auto honda's. I do know theres lots of tuners on here with a very wide range of knowledge.

Heres the setup, Its a AWD built auto dsm.

Billet 10" converter
Built trans
single fogger nitrous system, direct port nitrous system.
72mm turbo, 9:1 2.0L.
(Vac pump on the booster)

I have a 2 step via my Ignition box, and I have the ability to hold timing at any specific value while on the brakes.

Assuming my converter is loose enough to stall up properly, how would you guys go about setting this up to get to a decent stall on the 2 step (4500+), while on the brakes but not making enough power to pull though the brakes and possibly put huge stress on the gears while on at the line. Brake boosting alone will not spool the turbo, and there are no transbrakes.

Ideas?

 

A guy I know of got his auto dsm to build alot of boost below his stall rpm by using a antilag setup but found he had to advance the timing instead of retarding timing. Might be worth a try since it is the only way he could build any boost.

 

Your on the right track.

We used nitrous to spool the turbo on the GN years ago. We just hit the button around 2k rpm and let off right before it hit the 2 step.

 

Previously I would stall to a 3500rpm 2 step, spraying a 65 single fogger shot though 2 step. I could only build about 6psi before it would pull the brakes, this was with around 13 deg of timing. Im swapping to a better billet converter that will allow my converter to stall up higher (the one I have no is a factory restall).

I want to basically get up to a higher 2 step, hopefully 4500 with the new converter, and either run lower timing to help the turbo spool while on the 2 step, but keeping torque down so I don't pull the brakes, then getting my full timing back when I let off the brakes to get my 60s down.

While using nitrous on the stall with the low RPM, I didn't really want to get too agressive with the timing since I don't want to pop any headgaskets.

Dialing in the launch on an auto car like this is very tedious.

 

sounds like you sprayed to get over the 'hump'? Just using nitrous to get the RPM's & boost up until they would sit on the 2 step? Thanks.

 

Yes.

Once it starts to build boost it will stay on boost. 13 degrees is no where near enough.

Treat it the oppisite as a clutch car.

 

couldn't he use a trans brake.

 

trans brake wont help build boost it will only hold the car in place, iv seen some of the auto guys putting waste gates on the inter cooler piping to help the car free rev easer and then have them close around 2psi so it gets the turbo spinning faster since there is not a force against it something you might want to look at

also nitrous will work just use a system that you can turn it off at a set rpm or boost level unless you want to run it all the time its not uncommon to see 100-150 shot to bring a auto car up to boost

 

Not true. My transbrake will build whatever my gate is set to. In my case 30psi. If i use the footbrake on just the converter it wont flash high enough but to barely build 8psi or so.

there is a difference between, stall speed, flash, and braking speed. I use my aem to trigger the nitrous control until it reaches 20psi while the transbrake is pressed. at that point it will hold its own pressure on the turbo as it make some power in that area. then once the vss see 3mph the full kit comes back on and you make your pass.

now if I just foot brake it, the power will either push thru the brakes, as I do not have the SSBC pump on the booster yet, or it will dead head at 2900rpms and just chug itself to death.

this is on a 2JZ in a lexus chassis with a turbo400 and a PTC converter.


you can use a second solenoid with just a simple button to flash the convertrer up a bit if you have the brake booster pump on it

 

A tranny brake would work best I believe. I'm using a PG and pretty much have it licked when building boost. I hit it with a dry shot, 74 pill, guessing that's around a 100shot? It's controlled by the ems to turn on at 3000 and off by 5200. The onset of boost takes over from there then the 2 step at 6000. I don't pull any timing as the motor isn't under any severe load. Just using the foot brake to hold the car is not optimal and probably see limited success if any.

What kind of tranny?

 

Same here I turn the 75 shot at 2700 and shut it off at 4800 on transbrake on 4g63-powerglide

 

Is a w4a33 trans (stock awd Dsm), and a transbrake is not an option yet, but people are working on it!

 

What turbo and turbine are you running? With a little messing around I was able to
get 10-12psi on the line with a BW S372 with a smallish 80-80 turbine..

With my old T72 I it worked best to just bring it up to what ever I could (3-3500) and
just give it a shot to get it moving. I was using a 4 port 100 shot off the line turning
off at 15psi. It was easy to launch, very consistant and no waiting on the line
for the turbo to spool. Ya gotta be careful the stick shift guys will let you
sit on the converter and overheat the tranny or rush you and stage real quick not
givig you time to spool it.

Another trick, don't use the brake switch to turn on the nitrous it takes too long to
engauge. Use a pressure switch in the brake line (800-900 psi), it reacts MUCH faster
and helps the cars reaction time by as much as a tenth...

Hope this helps!
Steve