Tutorial: How to Install Rim Screws
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From: locked in a garage, FU, usa
Re: (Miss PSI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miss PSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree that this thread should be a sticky.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,911
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From: Glasgow, Montana, USA
I go from not doing this at all for years, to doing 10 tires THIS WEEK... Helping my buds out, etc.
I have some new opinions and thoughts.
First question I got all week from my buds is HOW MANY SCREWS to put in? I don't have the answer, but I can tell you what other people seem to be doing. On Lenso's, you have 5 spokes, doing anything but 5 or 10 per side is going to look silly. SO, I went 5 per side on my low horsepower car, and 10 per side on my high horsepower car.
My buddies with Centerlines, ended up doing 8 per side. There's no pattern in the wheel to match up with, and 8 is easy to divide by so it looks good, and holds good.
I suspect if you have a 6 spoke, 6 per side, or 12... you get the idea. Take into account your horsepower.
One trick I came up with on the Lenso's, when you get the face drilled (the easy side where the spokes are closest to the edge), how do you match those holes up on the back side? I laid the rim on the ground face down and lined up a basic framing square on the bottom hole and transferred a mark to the top edge with a felt tip marker. Squared that up on the lip, marked it, punched it, and drilled it. Perfect.
The drill bit included in the Summit and Jegs screw kits is undersized, you will be cutting threads in the rim. Make sure you drill 90 degrees to the mounting surface, and make sure you thread them in 90 degrees to the mounting surface, so they are threading in correctly.
I initially put anti-seize on the screw, and threaded it in... Kinda makes a mess. I ended up using a small brush and painting it down in the hole first.
While turning the screw in, it gets real tight about 1/4" from contact with the rim face while your cutting threads in the rim. you can feel it, and it feels you're just about to snap the screw or strip it out. I took that opportunity to pull the screw back out and re-paint some anti-seize in the hole, and finish turning in the screw.
No leaks, no errors, no innertubes.
Take your time.
Modified by vectorsolid at 2:56 AM 9/6/2008
I have some new opinions and thoughts.
First question I got all week from my buds is HOW MANY SCREWS to put in? I don't have the answer, but I can tell you what other people seem to be doing. On Lenso's, you have 5 spokes, doing anything but 5 or 10 per side is going to look silly. SO, I went 5 per side on my low horsepower car, and 10 per side on my high horsepower car.
My buddies with Centerlines, ended up doing 8 per side. There's no pattern in the wheel to match up with, and 8 is easy to divide by so it looks good, and holds good.
I suspect if you have a 6 spoke, 6 per side, or 12... you get the idea. Take into account your horsepower.
One trick I came up with on the Lenso's, when you get the face drilled (the easy side where the spokes are closest to the edge), how do you match those holes up on the back side? I laid the rim on the ground face down and lined up a basic framing square on the bottom hole and transferred a mark to the top edge with a felt tip marker. Squared that up on the lip, marked it, punched it, and drilled it. Perfect.
The drill bit included in the Summit and Jegs screw kits is undersized, you will be cutting threads in the rim. Make sure you drill 90 degrees to the mounting surface, and make sure you thread them in 90 degrees to the mounting surface, so they are threading in correctly.
I initially put anti-seize on the screw, and threaded it in... Kinda makes a mess. I ended up using a small brush and painting it down in the hole first.
While turning the screw in, it gets real tight about 1/4" from contact with the rim face while your cutting threads in the rim. you can feel it, and it feels you're just about to snap the screw or strip it out. I took that opportunity to pull the screw back out and re-paint some anti-seize in the hole, and finish turning in the screw.
No leaks, no errors, no innertubes.
Take your time.
Modified by vectorsolid at 2:56 AM 9/6/2008
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 1
From: Glasgow, Montana, USA
Re: (vectorsolid)
Holding perfect, no leaks, no problems.
Ran 'em as low as 6psi... Waterbox guy said, "dude, your tires are flat"... I said it's okay, they heat right up to 8psi, and they let me run 'em. they look pretty flat with 6. Still, held it, so there you have it.
Modified by vectorsolid at 9:51 PM 9/10/2008
Ran 'em as low as 6psi... Waterbox guy said, "dude, your tires are flat"... I said it's okay, they heat right up to 8psi, and they let me run 'em. they look pretty flat with 6. Still, held it, so there you have it.
Modified by vectorsolid at 9:51 PM 9/10/2008
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