www.IPGParts.com

It seems like this subject comes up about once a month, here is how we have installed rim screws for reference to aide in future inquiries.

John Ferguson has offered up most of these tips, that is how I learned..just passing it on.

here are the parts you may want to gather prior to beginning work:

- Wheel
- Pre-made Template -- Cardboard and Scissors work too (measure approximately 10 evenly spaced marks)
- Marker
- Hammer
- Punch
- Drill
- Anti-Seize
- Screws

We have always used 10 screws for each side -- so 20 screws per wheel -- 40 screws to complete your project.



Step 1 -- Mark spots to be drilled on outside of the wheel -- this is probably the easiest way to make the markings, you could just directly mark the inside of the wheel if you feel lucky.



Step 2 -- Transfer markings from the front of the wheel to the inside of the wheel to pinpoint the spots to be punched/drilled



Step 3 -- Use a punch to give your drill bit a guide



Step 4 -- Drill locations from the inside of the wheel with correct drill size bit (some kits come with drill bits already, other kits will specify what size you need in most cases)

you will want to drill through the wheel at a 45 degree angle

the following images will represent good placement for the screw from the inside of the wheel and the front face of the wheel





Ignore the holes in the direct center of the wheel, that is where the center of the wheel bolts into place.



Step 5 -- Debur the drilled holes

Step 6 -- Mount Tires

Step 7 -- Air up the tires to approximately 25-30 psi. With a little bit of anti-seize on each screw you will want to drive the screw through the rim into the bead of the tire



Step 8 -- Balance Wheels/Tires once screws are in place.

Step 9 -- Haul ***



www.IPGParts.com


Modified by Innes at 6:40 PM 8/26/2008

 

nice work. Appreciate your efforts.

Do you sell the template piece?




Modified by vectorsolid at 4:06 PM 8/26/2008

 

would of been nice to have 2 years ago


comes in 13in and 15in??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cluelessmale &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would of been nice to have 2 years ago


comes in 13in and 15in??</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i have (1) 13" and (1) 15" one here that aren't really for sale (personal use), i used to keep several in stock for sale but haven't for a while -- thinking of getting some more made again

you can get 15" ones from the popular chassis/fabrication supply companies but no one other than myself ever offered a 13" one that i have seen.

 

James puttin' in work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well i have (1) 13" and (1) 15" one here that aren't really for sale (personal use), i used to keep several in stock for sale but haven't for a while -- thinking of getting some more made again

you can get 15" ones from the popular chassis/fabrication supply companies but no one other than myself ever offered a 13" one that i have seen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if thats not innovation then I don't know what is!

 

Just in time for me to drill mine!!

 

excellent write up thanks for the info

 

I use a dab of silicone on each screw to prevent leaks, too.

 

Thanks for this post James! We need more of them

 

what are the chances those will come out on the track and really screw up the next guys car by getting a blowout like the tempest race car

 

good info james that would have been all over that when i was questioning how to do it a while back!

kinda scary there is a tech thread on honda-tech lol

 

 

here is what i have found on Mickey Thompsons website. i never really noticed cars with rim screws in this fashion, but Gary Gardella's cobalt runs them in this fashion.







Modified by DaveF at 8:42 AM 8/27/2008

 

it would be nice to take a tap and die and thread the actual hole to not worry about future strippage wouldn't it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would be nice to take a tap and die and thread the actual hole to not worry about future strippage wouldn't it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice thought, but the thread on the screw is so coarse, and really don't think there is a tap for this "screw" type thread. The Grade 8 screws are much harder then the rim itself, so in a way the screw is like a tap. You won't strip it if you don't overtighten it.. They really shouldn't be wrenched on, similiar to the tightness of a valve cover nut, a good snug and call it a day.


Good write up James

 

That's how I do it, the German way, "gouod'in snugg"

You don't want to be snapping one off and then drilling it out of your $XXX.XX wheel.

 

good job

 

nice write up and lmao to step 9: Haul ***

 

So... is this going to be a sticky ? It might be beneficial to have this up top..

 

I agree that this thread should be a sticky.


Do you recommend that if you use rim screws to run tubes or just monitor your air pressure?
Pros and Cons of each.

 

I would reccomend you run tubes unless you have a big air tank or a air compressor in your trailer.

Tubes give you peace of mind...

 

sweet write up

 

just did mine, 3rd hole into it, I remembered the mention of 'anti-seize' in this thread.

Anti-seize, FTW!!!

you can teach an old dog a new trick.

 

how to install rim screws
step 1: get Beaver's dad to do it.....
step 2: haul ***