Well guys i dont post much here.. but wanted to see if you guys could help me out.
I will be heading down to the track tomorrow and it's going to be my first time on slicks.. i just bought a set of 24.5x8x15s i've been running on drag radials all this time and slicks its going to be a new ball game..
here is a little info about the car:
2003 SRT4 no lsd
making about 431whp and 430wtq so as you can see it's going to be pretty hard to launch this thing..
not here comes the tricky question.. on spray the car makes about 500whp and 543wtq.. more tq then power.. i'm going to hit the spray maybe in 3rd gear.. what do you guys say? 2nd or 3rd gear? i know it all depends on how the car hooks.. also i'm not going to dump the clutch i wanna be able to make it back home...
On drag radials i launch at about 3k ridding the clutch i know i should do about 4k-4.5k on slicks right?
Any help would be appreciated.. thanks for your time!

 

spray out the hole and dont let go!!

 

Firstly, don't try to reinvent the wheel and make this super complicated, because honestly, it's not difficult at all. Don't worry about the limited slip for right now. Very respectable 60' times are still acheivable on an open differential. Here's what I would do.

First, I want to make sure you have a clutch capable of holding this power-- something other than stock, preferably a ceramic puck clutch or multi-disc carbon carbon. Otherwise you're going to tear it to pieces.

If you do, then here's what you want to be doing. First, get to the water box-- the official will typically set you up in the propper spot in the water. Once you're there, pull up your e-brake as hard as you can and put the car in 2nd gear. Rev the car up into the heart of the power band and drop the clutch. Without an LSD, you will still break both tires loose-- so don't worry about the peg-leg burnout.

Next, in 1st gear, as you come up to the line, slowly drive up and trip the pre-stage lights-- I typically wait for the other driver to get to that point to, or if they trip both, then you're still in the driver seat as far as when the tree will drop. When you're ready to trip the stage lights, push the clutch in all the way and rev the car up to around 5800rpm (assuming your redline is still 6000rpm). Once you have it steady at 5800, slowly let the clutch pedal out to where it barely starts to move and trip the stage lights, then push the clutch in again barely so you're not moving, but you're very close. This is called preloading (where the clutch pedal is NOT on the floor but a hair away from engaging the engine). When you preload, you take a lot of risk out of breaking axles from 'shocking' them by dropping the clutch from the floor all the way out at a high RPM. Keep the RPM steady until the tree drops. Then, let the cltuch out as fast as you can and mash the accelerator all the way as you would be launching as you always do.

Keep in mind that when you have slicks, launching and having wheel spin is much more beneficial to your times than bogging. When you bog, you're not using the tires to their whole benefit.

Hope you were able to follow and this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRTechnologies &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spray out the hole and dont let go!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO.. na.. i have to drive back home..

 

With the slicks there could be a possibility you can explode the diff and create a big hole in your tranns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Firstly, don't try to reinvent the wheel and make this super complicated, because honestly, it's not difficult at all. Don't worry about the limited slip for right now. Very respectable 60' times are still acheivable on an open differential. Here's what I would do.

First, I want to make sure you have a clutch capable of holding this power-- something other than stock, preferably a ceramic puck clutch or multi-disc carbon carbon. Otherwise you're going to tear it to pieces.

If you do, then here's what you want to be doing. First, get to the water box-- the official will typically set you up in the propper spot in the water. Once you're there, pull up your e-brake as hard as you can and put the car in 2nd gear. Rev the car up into the heart of the power band and drop the clutch. Without an LSD, you will still break both tires loose-- so don't worry about the peg-leg burnout.

Next, in 1st gear, as you come up to the line, slowly drive up and trip the pre-stage lights-- I typically wait for the other driver to get to that point to, or if they trip both, then you're still in the driver seat as far as when the tree will drop. When you're ready to trip the stage lights, push the clutch in all the way and rev the car up to around 5800rpm (assuming your redline is still 6000rpm). Once you have it steady at 5800, slowly let the clutch pedal out to where it barely starts to move and trip the stage lights, then push the clutch in again barely so you're not moving, but you're very close. This is called preloading (where the clutch pedal is NOT on the floor but a hair away from engaging the engine). When you preload, you take a lot of risk out of breaking axles from 'shocking' them by dropping the clutch from the floor all the way out at a high RPM. Keep the RPM steady until the tree drops. Then, let the cltuch out as fast as you can and mash the accelerator all the way as you would be launching as you always do.

Keep in mind that when you have slicks, launching and having wheel spin is much more beneficial to your times than bogging. When you bog, you're not using the tires to their whole benefit.

Hope you were able to follow and this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That was very helpfull! thanks alot for the info!!!
Yes the car has an alright clutch.. it's a SPEC 3 so we'll see how it behaves with the slicks.
Thanks again! i will let you guys know how i did...

 

[QUOTE=BlackSRT-4U]
LMAO.. na.. i have to drive back home.. [/QUOTE


LAMO....if you want to get good times get a dolly or a trailer and come out hard. but were driveing our neon also.

 

PABLO........YOU DONT WANTTO BREAK I KNOW WHAT U MEAN......BUT THE CAR WIll fall flat on its face if u lanch low and the tires hook......i suggest you launch at where the car is already in the powerband and ride the clutch make sure the nose never falls down and keep the front end up...and mess with air pressure in tires rather than on the launch rpm........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecdamian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PABLO........YOU DONT WANTTO BREAK I KNOW WHAT U MEAN......BUT THE CAR WIll fall flat on its face if u lanch low and the tires hook......i suggest you launch at where the car is already in the powerband and ride the clutch make sure the nose never falls down and keep the front end up...and mess with air pressure in tires rather than on the launch rpm........</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats what i was saying lol

 

hey pablito you'll want to start off 11-12 psi on the slicks and i don't know what rpm band the neons have but you want to rev pretty high so oyu don't bog and sometimes when that happens you can break axles just ride the cluch until you get the car moving and good luck

 

my suggestion is the profec b with the lo boost high boost button!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by singlecam screamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey pablito you'll want to start off 11-12 psi on the slicks and i don't know what rpm band the neons have but you want to rev pretty high so oyu don't bog and sometimes when that happens you can break axles just ride the cluch until you get the car moving and good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I get 400++Tq at about 4k so i was thinking reving up to about 5k so when i ride the clutch it will drop to about 4k-4.5k ? 12psi sound good! i will try that as well!
Thanks for the help guys.. now lets hope the weather clears up!

 

I want to thank all of you guys for the help!
first pass the clutch felt it so after every pass it would stink like clutch..
first pass was sucky
12.65 @ 113
second was better
12.0 @ 119
third was the best
11.85 @ 119.33 with a 1.8 sixty foot
and last pass was the back up
11.9 @ 119.42 1.8 sixty foot

I didnt spray it cause the clutch was not even holding up on boost..

 

congrats

 

Good to hear. Did the preloading I describe help? What about the 2nd gear burnout? I think you should really consider replacing that clutch with a puck-type clutch or a multi-disc clutch depending how much you want to spend. I'm unsure what's availible for the SRT, but I'm sure there are many clutch packages availible- and if they're not availible now, they'll be availible after this year's sema show in November.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good to hear. Did the preloading I describe help? What about the 2nd gear burnout? I think you should really consider replacing that clutch with a puck-type clutch or a multi-disc clutch depending how much you want to spend. I'm unsure what's availible for the SRT, but I'm sure there are many clutch packages availible- and if they're not availible now, they'll be availible after this year's sema show in November. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes sir.. i did just like you said.. 2nd gear burn out. and preloaded the clutch!
Thanks for all your help!!
tire pressure was at 13psi and a launched at 4k ridding the clutch