i was torquing my cylinder head down today and at about 76ft lbs one of the thread in the block pulled. i am using ARP moly lube and GE head studs. whats the easiest best way to fix the block. this is for a 84mm b18c boosted applicaton.

 

Contact the guys at RS machine thy can fix it for you. 562-926-0283

 

Best way to fix is with time certs. ALL 10 of mine were stripped. its expensive but they hold better than helicoil. Cost me 50 bucks PER time cert. SMH.

 

Yep, Time Sert kit is what you need. I had to do a few head studs as well.

 

And after the timeserts will it hold 80ft lbs of torque?

 

a time sert will hold more than the factory threads.

 

ive time-sert a few blocks with good success. I Can do it for you depending your location im in NJ.

 

I've done helicoils and they held great but timeserts will be the best option.

 

Mine r tq to 80ft-bs... all 10 of them.

 

well i took the block to my machinist today to get it fixed, he did the time sert install, i will be putting the head back on tomorrow(keeping fingers crossed) hopefully no more threads get pulled and i can get to torque the head properly.

thanks fellows, also ricky for the offer but i,m located in the caribbean.

 

Have the machinist check ALL your head studs at once. i thought i only stripped 2 studs but when i got the block back from the machine shop and i tried to torque the head down, ALL 10 of the studs were stripped. Check em all while the machinist has the block

 

I had similar problems had a local machine shop put in "lock and stitch" inserts. They are pretty BA pieces. The block casting will pull apart before these threads come out again!

to the OP - just out of curiosity was this a stock block or a sleeved block? If a sleeved block who's block was it?

 

well i had to take it back to the machine shop today, the one that they did is fine but another one stripped so he fixing that one now. i also asked him to check the rest to see if they are okay too.

 

only way to "check" is to just do them all. I did a block once ...all of it, and the damn block cracked after torquing all of them LOL. that sucked. Time Certs can be done with the engine still in the car too. Pretty sweet setup.

 

well **** just got worse, it cracked the block when torquing the head down its the center stud thats just behind the dipstick. tried welding it but it was still leaking i'm gonna try JB weld if that doesn't work, i think I'm gonna pack it up.

it seems as if the headstuds are going all the way in the bottom of the block and the little tip at the bottom of the stud is what puts pressure on the block when torquing it, causing it break i think that is what also stripped the threads cause i have torqued the block two times prior with ARP and did not have any issues.

 

This was caused by not cleaning the oil out of the holes first.

 

I agree. i had alittle oil in my one hole that i thought i cleaned out. yep it put so much pressure on the threads that it pulled the stud up and out. be careful for that. make sure those holes are clean of debris and fluids. im heli-coiling mine. done it before with no issues. GE studs have notches at the bottom so they can release air pockets that get trapped while tightning down on the studs. i usually hear the air leak out as i get to the bottom of the hole with the stud. arp's i notice does not have this notch and are threaded to the bottom flat. helicoil part # R1084-11 just for future reference. good luck with everything man. it sucks when this happens.