I was wondering if i got some 600 rate springs in the front and 450 in the rear would that be enough for a daily driven '90 Crx that I drag twice a month? or should I go to a higher rate?

 

Someone has to have a suggestion for me, please have bad body roll when launch and shift.

 

that'd be fine, little soft of a spring rating if you want them as a drag spring...

 

Would 800 be better, yet not to hard for daily driver?

 

if you are concerened about body roll y dont you invest into some sway bars? just a suggestion

 

800 is too hard for road you will spin out. Go 400-600. I once drove on the road on 1000 (fun fun fun).
The sway bar idea sounds best to reduce roll, try the neuspeed 19mm.

 

You first idead wa sthe best 600 in fornt 400 back. Any harder and you will hate yourself.

 

Swap those spring rates and you'll be much happier.

 

Thanks for all the help. I ordered a set today of 600 front and 450 back.

 

Why would you run a front biased spring rate set-up?

 

I was told it will help on my launches for drag if I was told wrong let me know I can still change my order.

 

Well if you want to keep as much traction as possible to the front tires you would want to run extrememly stiff springs in the rear to allow for as little squat in the rear as possible. (Wheelie bars aside). If you don't want the front end to come up as much that would be adjusted through your strut valving.

Same thing also holds true for auto-x/road race set-ups. Stiff in the rear. Your spring rates are great for a dual purpose car, I would just swap back to front and front to back.

I plan on running 330F 440R (6k 8k) for the streets and probably around a 600ish/900ish for track duty when I finally take the car off the road.

 

Generally for a drag setup, you put the harder springs in the rear to counter act squating, which happens when weight is transfered to the rear of the car under hard acceleration
this removes weight from your front wheels, causing them to lift, and you loose traction

That's the general idea

 

Okay so I'm backwards but then will the 450 front and 600 back be a good set-up for my car it squats really bad right now with the H&R's. I don't drive that much on street but still want it to be streetable in case I do have do drive it more then the 3 miles to work.

 

That set-up would be mucho .

 

Thanks for all your help you get & a

 

Not a problem. Why were here.

 

Ok, seems we are in a little disagreement here. Before you do anything, think exactly what you want. 600 front and 450 rear is perfect for street use/drag racing and weekend warrior driving. I agree that the 600 in the rear will improve 60ft times but you will loose driving safety and comfort. The rear may tend to become 'happy' on cornering and bouncy. I use the skunk 600/450 coilovers (respectively) on my street/weekend warrior and its perfect; that way I know I can corner the car and drag without sacrificing any too much. I call it a perfect balance, that why most manufacturers may recommend that set up. Ok as always I could be wrong but I would like to get some more comments from suspension guys. Remember, think of what you want to do with your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, seems we are in a little disagreement here. Before you do anything, think exactly what you want. 600 front and 450 rear is perfect for street use/drag racing and weekend warrior driving. I agree that the 600 in the rear will improve 60ft times but you will loose driving safety and comfort. The rear may tend to become 'happy' on cornering and bouncy. I use the skunk 600/450 coilovers (respectively) on my street/weekend warrior and its perfect; that way I know I can corner the car and drag without sacrificing any too much. I call it a perfect balance, that why most manufacturers may recommend that set up. Ok as always I could be wrong but I would like to get some more comments from suspension guys. Remember, think of what you want to do with your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me ask this....do you think having 700lb spring rates in the rear will cause the car to want to get squirely when you let off the gas at high speeds.

 

This topic has been covered a ton in both Drag and Road Racing/Auto X. Bottom line is a rear biased set-up is the way to go. Reduce squat under lateral acceleration as well as giving you a more rear biased approach to eliminate understeer balence the car out equally. You can get the rear end to get "squirley" by throttle lifting when you are at high speed and at the limit whether you are stock or full race. Granted with an upgraded suspension is it much easier to do as well as a lot easier to control and balence.

 

I think that driving on uneven road conditions will not feel comfortable as well as bounce around excessively with 700 rear. And granted that x crossers may put heavier springs in the rear to reduce understeer but this is also an extreme case. I am sure x-crossers tune their suspension to suit their requirements not just put a heavy spring in the rear, this is onlty one option of x-crossers. I would quicker put a lower rear anti-sway bar or even remove front sway bars if I were looking to have more rotation on the rear. The point is putting a heavier spring in the rear will cause the car to bounce around more than you may want on uneven road conditions . It may may also cause the car to become more 'tail happy' than you might like. My feeling is that balancing out the car by using sway bars, shock and springs etc is the way to go. I have also discussed this topic up till recently and I assure you that im not talking crap. I have also experimented with different springs on my car so I can talk from experience. Infact once I used a heavier spring in the rear and the road was wet, my tyres were almost smooth I will admit. I hit a slight depression in the road at a slight bend and the rear bounced just enough to spin the car out of control and crashed. The car may or may not have spun with a softer spring I may never know, but be prepared, if you put harder spring in the rear you WILL bounce more and induce oversteer. Lets just say you decide to put a lower sway bar then you will really be in problems.

 

Well in my case I only drive it three miles to work so for that little of a drive I can handle it and I want to make my car better for drag. I have the front cross-member for reducing wheel-hop already so I think it will be okay but thanks for looking out for me and the others on this site.

 

What spring rates should I get?
This is a completely open question. Quite frankly, if you're blindly asking this question, you probably dont need custom rates and brings us back to the original question, "Should I get coilovers or springs?" and you probably would be better off with one of the many street kits from Eibach, Neuspeed or H&R, or just get the preset vehicle specific kit from GC. The reason I say this is because there is such a wide variety of street kits with varying stiffness and ride heights that will still perform very well on autox and even be enjoyable around the track, and remain a fair margin of safety required for driving on the street. Typically, most adjustable spring kit owners rarely, almost never based on my survey, adjust their ride heights after initially setting it and buying such a kit would be a waste of money. Furthermore, allowing more adjustment simply allows more ways of setting your suspension WRONG for your application.
Having said that, and you are still convinced you require custom spring rates, first define your application. What type of driving will your car MAINLY be doing and NOT just "occasionally"? (i.e. street, autox, open track, road race, rally) Then do your own RESEARCH (key is "search") to other recommended setups. Only YOU can determine what is a good spring rate for your application, and then try it. The good thing about the GC setup is you can swap out springs and try another combo. For many autoxers of FWD Hondas, stiffening up the rear relative to the front reduces some of the understeer inherent in FWD cars and helps rotate the car. 400f/600r (along with an aftermarket rear swaybar) seems popular among Integra drivers but is very stiff for street use and requires high quality shocks. Competitive road racing setups can go up to 450f/900r or 600f/800r, even 1200, but is completely NOT recommended for driving on the street, for comfort and safety and suspension/hardware reliability and lifetime, and is not needed except for competition.

Read this site, like I said the decision is yours. Do like the site says and do research.
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/coilover.html#05