No flaming please. Im looking for a cage for my car and the shell im using is pretty beat so im really not looking to do a custom cage at the moment due to cost. This shell may be getting junked in the next season or so so id like to stay a little budget on it.

So i am wondering about what you guys have used or seen as far as whats better from one company to another. I know there is s&w jegs summit safe drivers im sure there is more if anyone has some suggestions and pics especially would be great. thanks guys

 

I have used the comp engineering, S&W, and the KensKustom chassis. The KensKustom was miles better and I don't plan on using anything else from now on!

 

See what a shop can can do for you for a 6-point, it's not that much more by the time you calculate everything. There are guys that do like ~125 a point from what I've seen for something as simple as a 6-point.

Will you be welding it yourself?

 

Yes i will be welding it myself so id be saving there. Maybe ill call around see what shops around here are charging.

And ill look into the The KensKustom cage.

 

keep n mind- prebent cages are nice, but there is still alot of fitting to make them complete. most of them have some nothces in them, but most can't even be used

 

You welding it does change the situation for sure

I've heard good things about the Kens stuff

 

Cool yea i dont in any way expect the thing to just fall in and fit perfect lol. But having the bends and what not there is the main thing im looking for. Ill have to call kens on Monday i doubt there open right now looks like 300 for the cage just have to see what it is to ship the damn thing.

 

Kenskustoms cage is better than my welding it is still certified by NHRA.

 

where do you buy kenskustom cages?

 

This is a kens custom 6 pt with a few modifications. Overall fit perfectly out of the box, but we got a little creative. Hope this hleps you out a little in your decision.

 

http://www.kenskustomchassis.com/Spo...pact_parts.htm

 

the only thing you need to add to the kens kit is the lower d bar

 

I've heard so many different things some say its needed other say its not neccesary. Ive seen both ones with and without it both certified so I'm lost when it comes to the lower d bar.

 

Well you only need them for the 10-pt if you are looking for certification. Without the Halo/A-pillar bars it won't be able to pass.

But the 6-pt looks good from him

 

S&W is very good about helping out. I was runnin power street and needed to keep my rear seats. my chassis guy measured up to clear the seats and called S&W. they bent the pieces I needed to clear the seat and my chassis guy had a local shop bend bars to go through the dash instead of around it like S&W.

Like others said it is close but you will have some cutting and fitting. also make sure you cut through the floor and run the tubing through that then weld in the plates and weld the tubing to them. I have seen a lot of people over look that.

 

At what point do you need to upgrade from a 6pt to 10 pt(certified)? Is it when you crack into the 9's or is it anything over 135mph? Who makes the kit that is listed on Full-Race's website?

 

This subject has been beaten to death. I have posted about this subject more than anything else I think.LOL
I went to have my cage cetified and did not have the lower bar that the d bars mount to. He said he remembered something about unibody cars and the d bars. He pulled out his huge certification rule book and showed it to me. It said unibody cars must have the d bars mounted to a bar that went side to side and connected to the rockers with a plate. This bar is intended to keep the car from crumpling(sp) from side to side in an impact. He also said the hoop could be mounted to this bar as well. He was building one for his son's car that was this way. The reason you see some people getting their's cetified without it is that the guy doing the certification either doesn't know about it because he usually does framed cars(seems to be the most common), or simply doesn't care about it, or maybe(heaven forbid) just lets it slide. The fact is that you are supposed to have it. Just go ahead and do it so you don't have to come back and do it later. Here is a pic of mine. This cage is certified by the book and this is the way I have done several that have passed as well:
[img] [/img]

 

pmed need Info

 

ive used a kens kustom kit in one car, and it fit better then the comp engineering i had in another car (both EG's)..

although i do believe custom is the way to go, since your on a budget, id suggest the Kens

 

mine is done w.o. the bar, it goes to plates, and this is the way the guy that originally cert'd my car said to do it. it is up for recert this year, and looks like i will be doing it early incase i get called on it.

 

How often do you have to "recert" a cage?

 

I have the S&W cage in my car. it works.

 

I think every 2 years.

 

Can you get any pictures of what you cage? I would really like to see it.

 

the tech in the nw said to we can run a lower cross bar from hoop to hoop then weld the d-bars to that. its different in every division