Right now I am running a b16 with CTR internals, ported an polished head, exaust, CTR cams, ITB's.

For suspention I have just coil overs for now, the rest is stock, no sway bars. Running on 13" weld drag lites wraped in M&H 20X8 slicks with 16 psi. No traction what so ever out of the hole.

Now, next year I will be running a 2.0 dart block with my b16 head ported and polished even more with either skunk 3 cams or cower roller cams. I have a litened, knife edged, and balanced crank with eagle rods and CP 12.5:1 pistons. 954RR ITB's, header, exaust, and a fogger.

Haven't made up my mind if I want to do hondata or go with a totally diffrent system like AEM and MSD.

what do you guys sugest I run for a suspention setup to get this 1780 pound crx out of the hole on nitrous?

I am going to get traction bars for sure. I really don't want to do the wheelie bars/track bars? out the back of the car.

Are the avid traction bars any good? I notice they only use one bolt to the A arm. Does the full race bar use both bolts?

 

Another quick question, what gear are you guys with slicks doing your burnout with? How do you hold you cars back with slicks when doing a burnout? I don't have my E brake anymore but i do have a pair of line locks for the rears. I think the rear of the car is to light because the slicks will drag the rear tires when i do my burnout.

 

Get the fulrace bars, I like those.
2nd gear burnout use your line lock and start in the warter.

 

Do the fulrace bars use both of the bolt holes on the A arms?

 

Probably need to step up to 24.5" soft compound slicks. 20's seem too small. Should help a little.

 

With the motor and NOS u are going to be runing A MnH 24 on a 13 wheel will be a great idea .

I agree with richie with the sec gear burnount , trust me a 1st to secound burnout KILLS syncros . Richie rebuilt our trans for us .

And also invest in a spool , no jdn diff , no quafe , and deff no phantom CRAP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With the motor and NOS u are going to be runing A MnH 24 on a 13 wheel will be a great idea .

I agree with richie with the sec gear burnount , trust me a 1st to secound burnout KILLS syncros . Richie rebuilt our trans for us .

And also invest in a spool , no jdn diff , no quafe , and deff no phantom CRAP.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The diff. was another delema that I have. I would like to drive the car on the street yet. Does anyone make a good locker for the Y1 tranny? I wouldn't mind running a spool but I hear they pull alot on the street.

 

For suspention I have just coil overs for now, the rest is stock, no sway bars. Running on 13" weld drag lites wraped in M&H ( 20X8 ) slicks with 16 psi. No traction what so ever out of the hole.

Hi snowseeker; Do you mean 8/22-13 and what is your HP.

John@M&H-Hashims

I am being called to the dinner table, and I will get back with you.

 

Here are some pics of the Full-race EF bars, and yes they do use both holes.





Hope this answers your questions man. Best of luck with getting the traction you need

Clayton

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlicksMH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For suspention I have just coil overs for now, the rest is stock, no sway bars. Running on 13" weld drag lites wraped in M&H ( 20X8 ) slicks with 16 psi. No traction what so ever out of the hole.

Hi snowseeker; Do you mean 8/22-13 and what is your HP.

John@M&H-Hashims

I am being called to the dinner table, and I will get back with you.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes maybe they are the 22's, I haven't looked at them in awhile.

I am not sure what to expect for HP on the new motor yet. I am guessing around 280 - 300 at the crank NA.

I am at the very very top of fourth gear (8400) right now with the 22's at the big end. I was thinking of going with a bigger slick next year just so I can stay away from shifting into 5th.

 

Those are some nice looking bars. I think you made up my mind on the traction bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes maybe they are the 22's, I haven't looked at them in awhile.

I am not sure what to expect for HP on the new motor yet. I am guessing around 280 - 300 at the crank NA.

I am at the very very top of fourth gear (8400) right now with the 22's at the big end. I was thinking of going with a bigger slick next year just so I can stay away from shifting into 5th. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hi snowseeker; You have the B16-Y1 tranny it has alittle bet long gearing then the reg B16. If you are pushing let say around 240 HP go wiyh the 23's if it's a street car. Full race car you can go with the M&H 8.5/24.5-13 and if you do have the 280-300 on that HP, you just might want to go up to the M&H 8/25-13 or the 8.7/25-13.

Good Luck snowseeker and be SAFE.

John@M&H-Hashims

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlicksMH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hi snowseeker; You have the B16-Y1 tranny it has alittle bet long gearing then the reg B16. If you are pushing let say around 240 HP go wiyh the 23's if it's a street car. Full race car you can go with the M&H 8.5/24.5-13 and if you do have the 280-300 on that HP, you just might want to go up to the M&H 8/25-13 or the 8.7/25-13.

Good Luck snowseeker and be SAFE.

John@M&H-Hashims </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks much for the advise! Could you PM with a price on a pair of 24.5/8.5 slicks.

Do you think the bigger slicks with the full-race bars and coil overs are ideal? Would I want the car to sit flat or have the backend up a little higher than the front?

Thanks again!