Hi,

Building a 700hp EG Hatch and wondering what you recommend for Engine Mounts and why do you recommend them.

Solid Steel mounts, or Stockers with a bushing kit?

Thanks for your help.


Modified by Project-D at 3:55 PM 11/25/2004

 

you might wanna try solid steel mount's like you said.. but does any company make solid steel mounts for a D series?.. i know Hasport don't.. good luck

 

jimfab.com

they work great (not solid..but damn close)

 

I also have the Jimfab mounts, I had some installation issues but they work well.

 

I'm only using the Y mount, tranny mount and cam gear/timing cover mount. Jim fab looks to only make a tranny mount.

I guess my real question is SOLID or FLEXIBLE? I can get either, but not sure which to use..

 

Solid , It will help your car be more consistant, and make your shifts feel solid .

 

Why dont you just fab something up! Grab some metal and a tig and go nuts!!

 

If we decided to go solid we will 100% fab something up, but I don't want to go solid if it is going to rip the car in half or cause me problems.

Our All-Motor Car is almost Solid Mounted, but it does not make 500ft-lbs of torque, so I can't use that as a guide.

I need to figure this out as my motor is ready and we want to get this car started and tuned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTI2lo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why dont you just fab something up! Grab some metal and a tig and go nuts!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The post was (engine mounts solid or stock with bushing kit)
Try to stay focused

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99Hybrid_Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jimfab.com

they work great (not solid..but damn close)</TD></TR></TABLE>

check out jimfab's models!

http://www.jimfab.com/susp/92cm4.jpg

 

I've always wondered what the negative effects of running solid mounts would be. I remember hearing that guys run into problems with subframe damage because the mounts are so stiff they transfer energy to the frame. Would it not be smarter to run something with a little bit of give so that instead of having the energy directly transfered to the chassis, your mounts absorb some also?

 

I would definitely think solid is no the way to go. With the motor wanting to torque against the solid mount you will see cracking and stressing on the frame. You would ideally want to get some hard durometer polyurethane. It will hold the motor very still but still absorb enough vibration as to not hurt and crack the frame.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would ideally want to get some hard durometer polyurethane. It will hold the motor very still but still absorb enough vibration as to not hurt and crack the frame.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why i casted my own

80a durometer.

 

nice job..

 

the stamped steel honda mounts will only last so long on a honda FI car.

If you really want an engine that doesnt flap around that much and dont ever want to have to miss a race due to broken mounts, then either get hasport mounts with a race durometer, or solid mounts.

 

[QUOTE=Sp00n’d Supra]
thats why i casted my own
80a durometer.
QUOTE]
how did you do this? what material did you use?

 

Marc,

I used a solid mount in my GTI when I was snapping downpipes like tooth picks after racing. The solid mount solved the problem and the car seemed to put the power down better instead of having the motor flop around during shifts and launching. Try both solid and urethane and see what works better. I'd lean towards solid for a race car and urethane for a dual purpose car.