MFactory diff questions- users chime in!
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From: Greenwood, IN
Zinc / ZDDP (Phosphorus as well) is the primary deal in the synthetics, it actually impregnates itself into the metal... However, its more than that... Anti shock properties are considerable concern as well... Torco RTF and Redline lightweight shockproof are both GREAT.
The V2 Mfactory diffs are really nice, If this 1st gen OBX ever breaks (5 years at 650-760 WHP at 578 TQ in an aAccord) Ill be going that route. Ive installed a couple in H trannys. Really like them.
No gearset, no real need for the exotic fluids, but from the power youre mentioning... Id go with either of the aforementioned.
The V2 Mfactory diffs are really nice, If this 1st gen OBX ever breaks (5 years at 650-760 WHP at 578 TQ in an aAccord) Ill be going that route. Ive installed a couple in H trannys. Really like them.
No gearset, no real need for the exotic fluids, but from the power youre mentioning... Id go with either of the aforementioned.
Im using mfactory now just switched weeks back. Interms of power we are making well above 700 but, i havent dynoed/raced it again so i have no feedback on that as of now. Its sitting on our garage as of the moment.
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From: Greenwood, IN
Well definitely keep me posted on your results. Everyones input is valued!
Haha its funny you mention the 1st gen OBX's because thats what I'm just getting out of. It took alot of beatings at just over 400whp and also alot of beatings at 620whp. Still worked great. I didnt really want to sell it, but I know I will be well outside of the claimed power rating of that LSD lol. I guess I'm just taking a precautionary step for piece of mind before I scatter transmission parts all over the track.
IMO youre making a good move. Ill be buying one this winter...
Im just out to prove a point ;O)
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From: Greenwood, IN
Alot of my buddies around here that are making good power (650-800whp) still run stock open differentials. I don't understand how but they don't seem to be having any issues with them. K series and B series both.
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Well now after doing a little more research, It looks like I will probably want to run a different size final drive to be able to get the mph out of my 4th gear since my trans will have a 5th gear cuff in it. I know I can go with a Mfactory final drive but its quite a bit of money for the pro series 4.05 final drive. I have been seeing some people have good luck with the LS 4.266 final drive, which is quite a bit easier on the wallet.
My next question is- What will I need to do if I want to run an LS ring gear and counter shaft in my GSR transmission? If Im understanding this correctly, the LS final drive doesnt bolt up to the GSR diff.
Hmmmm.....
My next question is- What will I need to do if I want to run an LS ring gear and counter shaft in my GSR transmission? If Im understanding this correctly, the LS final drive doesnt bolt up to the GSR diff.
Hmmmm.....
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From: Greenwood, IN
Yes, it will fit fine. A new differential going in to any case will need to be shimmed accordingly, regardless of whether it is a B16, GSR or Type-R.
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From: Greenwood, IN
Been running an mFactory helical diff in my car for a couple years now. Currently at 600 whp and it has seen countless track hits (50+) 1.6 60 foot times never had an issue I have always run OEM Honda MTF but will likely switch fluids soon maybe synchromesh
hey josh, the redline lighweight shockproof worked out pretty well for me when i was on a stock trans.
Totally agree.
My straight-cut set is syncroed. Using Syncrotec 4 and 5, but OEM 1 2 3. The LWSP playes very well. Bearings always look great. Its a frikkin MESS to clean up, but it works. Ive used it before in trannys with alot of street driving on them. NO shift hesitation at 9K. None. Like anything else, make sure everything is up to temp before beating on it to ggive it a chance to thin out... BNUt still, it has the viscocity of like a 30 WT even when its "cold".
Even when on not 100 percent warmed up Ive NEVER had even a hint of "notchyness" attributed to the fluid :O)
^ thanks for the tips guys! I have had some isolated shift lockout issues past 9k rpm on my 2-3 shift only. I was blaming the clutch (single plate) but thought since it was only one gear I might try a different fluid first before I drop a grand on a twin disk.
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From: Greenwood, IN
Post up the details if you would like. I am curious as to what happened since it seems like alot of people are having alot of success with your product. Im sold on it.
Our LSD's have been proven on 1000hp+ cars without problems. If you are breaking them at 427hp, there is a problem somewhere. Again, please PM me with the details so that I can assist you.
Totally agree.
My straight-cut set is syncroed. Using Syncrotec 4 and 5, but OEM 1 2 3. The LWSP playes very well. Bearings always look great. Its a frikkin MESS to clean up, but it works. Ive used it before in trannys with alot of street driving on them. NO shift hesitation at 9K. None. Like anything else, make sure everything is up to temp before beating on it to ggive it a chance to thin out... BNUt still, it has the viscocity of like a 30 WT even when its "cold".
Even when on not 100 percent warmed up Ive NEVER had even a hint of "notchyness" attributed to the fluid :O)
My straight-cut set is syncroed. Using Syncrotec 4 and 5, but OEM 1 2 3. The LWSP playes very well. Bearings always look great. Its a frikkin MESS to clean up, but it works. Ive used it before in trannys with alot of street driving on them. NO shift hesitation at 9K. None. Like anything else, make sure everything is up to temp before beating on it to ggive it a chance to thin out... BNUt still, it has the viscocity of like a 30 WT even when its "cold".
Even when on not 100 percent warmed up Ive NEVER had even a hint of "notchyness" attributed to the fluid :O)
Well now after doing a little more research, It looks like I will probably want to run a different size final drive to be able to get the mph out of my 4th gear since my trans will have a 5th gear cuff in it. I know I can go with a Mfactory final drive but its quite a bit of money for the pro series 4.05 final drive. I have been seeing some people have good luck with the LS 4.266 final drive, which is quite a bit easier on the wallet.
My next question is- What will I need to do if I want to run an LS ring gear and counter shaft in my GSR transmission? If Im understanding this correctly, the LS final drive doesnt bolt up to the GSR diff.
Hmmmm.....
My next question is- What will I need to do if I want to run an LS ring gear and counter shaft in my GSR transmission? If Im understanding this correctly, the LS final drive doesnt bolt up to the GSR diff.
Hmmmm.....

Stock honda LSD in the worst diff for drag racing hands down!
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From: Greenwood, IN
Based off my Usdm Gsr trans with a 4.40FD:
-M&H 235-60-15 : 149mph (4th gear)
-24.5" slicks : 139 mph (4th gear)
Based off my Usdm Gsr trans with a 4.26FD:
-M&H 235-60-15 : 153mph (4th gear)
-24.5" slicks : 144 mph (4th gear)
What issues will I run into with the 4.26FD?



