First I did a search and didn't get the answers I was looking for, also posted this in the tech forum but thought posting here was relivant also.
I know that the proportionate valve is devided so 1 front and one back is on each line comming off the master cylinder. So I'm looking for a way around buying a second solenoid. Now my question is could I tee the two rear brake lines comming off the proportionate valve, then run it into the solenoid, then tee back into two lines again? I have a paint picture showing what I mean, looks kinda crappy but meh it's paint.



Let me know if you've tried this or seen this done before or if it will work, and if it will still be ok for a street car, I want to still have functionable brakes. I want to do it this way for staging at the drag races to build boost.
And for the ending, would braided stainless with teflon lining be better to use than the rubber lining or vise versa?

 

I have done it that way. I have also done it with a buddy of mine where he decided to just buy 2 solenoids and put one at each rear brake location. Or you could ditch the stock proportioning valve and run a Wilwood, and put the line lock on the firewall.

Jason

 

You can do that and it does work but you lose abit of safety factor that way. The Diagonal Split allows 1 circuit to work if a leak develops in the other. If you tie the rears together you lose that. But your not gonna be able to lock both rear brakes any other way unless you use two solenoids.

 

What the hell are you doing here? lol

 

He wanted to see what HT (Honda-Tony) was all about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did your buddy put them like, on the rear trailing arm?

I like that idea </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, he used some rubber lined clamps, and ran stainless lines to the calipers from the solenoids.

Jason

 

I guess I'll just go with my back up plan and run one solenoid to one front tire, I'm not running a pro tree, and just need it for a roll control anyways so that will work fine. Thanks for the answers guys.

Does anyone know about the stainless braided line, should I be using teflon or the rubber for the brakes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DraginX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know about the stainless braided line, should I be using teflon or the rubber for the brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been told that teflon lined brake line kits last longer and have less tendency to expand than rubber lines. Earls Kits pm me if you need a set.

 

What I've done before (non Honda) is change from a cross diagonal, to a front/rear system. All you'd have to do is swap a front/rear line on what you have labeled as the prop valve there. Then take the two rears to the T, lock and T again for the dual rear lines. That way if you lose one circuit you still have the other. If you were to lose one circuit on yours, you'd have no brakes.

 

Uh Oh, Busted.

 

Has anyone ever seen or done it this way? Ditch the stock prop valve, Run a line from the master cylinder to the rear of the car , then into a T, from there to the rear brakes. Do the same for the front and run no prop valve at all. That way you can you mount your line lock on the firewall. I quess this would apply more for all out drag car.