My friend has a b18c with bolt-ons in a cutted 95 ex coupe. He was able to run 14.8. His car is dropped practically sitting on the floor, his front tires are kinda tucked inside the wheel well and you call tell he's riding on the inside of the tire cuz of the negative camber. Now if it were to be corrected, would he have gotten a quicker time?

 

Yes!

 

most definitely, with a poor camber setting you are effectivly shrinking the contact patch of the tire. when/if you change the camber on the car, keep in mind that acceleration causes weight transfer which is going to pull the front of the car up, effecting the camber.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSpin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most definitely, with a poor camber setting you are effectivly shrinking the contact patch of the tire. when/if you change the camber on the car, keep in mind that acceleration causes weight transfer which is going to pull the front of the car up, effecting the camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So are you saying you should set the camber +/- or 0?

 

If traction was an issue before and he had some extreme negative camber, then I'm sure he's better off now. Will that make him a whole lot faster? I doubt it. Traction issues just shouldn't be too huge with relatively stock B18C swap. On a setup like that, some baby slicks (MT 20x6-14 - if they even still make them!) will probably improve his time more than anything if that's what he's looking for.

But on cars that makes more (okay, a lot more) power (SFWD cars, etc.) and tends to lift the front more when you launch, to get the optimum patch, you're probably best going a bit negative. With that being said we normally lock our SFWD cars down at -0.50-0.75 degrees.