Help with time slip.
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Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,851
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
Well i have put a bunch of money into my teggy recently and i am reletively dissatisfied at the point i am at now. before you read on, yes, i know i need a good header and exhaust (and compression isnt helping any). those things are planned to have by summmer (smsp header and rsr exhaust, block will be a while 85mm hopefully). i have been to the track 3 times and put in 15 runs. I know i am not that experienced, but i believe i can drive fairly decent. If anyone has hondalogger, i can supply 2 runs from the track to use to help me out on making a better pass.
93 Integra. bunch of mods
here is best stock run (used as base run)
R/T .896
60Â’ 2.321
330 6.490
1/8 9.974
MPH 70.44
1000 12.971
1/4 15.522
MPH 87.55
here is my best time with those mods listed
R/T .399
60Â’ 2.258
330 6.364
1/8 9.8
MPH 71.69
1000 12.758
1/4 15.276
MPH 89.36
Mods
- Hondata s200 w/ datalogging
- AEM CAI w/ bypass
- NGK plugs
- NGK wires
- Generic Front Strut Bar
- B&M Fuel Pressure Guage
- 95 P&P Head
- Crower Springs
- Crower Retainers
- Bronze Valve Guides
- Crower 62404 Cams
- AEM TruTime Cam Gears
- BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- Skunk 2 Intake Manifold (port match with the TB)
- RC 440 Injectors
- AEM Fuel Rail
- AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Rebuilt JDM B16 Tranny
- Clutchnet sprung 6 puck clutch
skunk 2 coils and 16" slips with kumho 712s (215 40)
wieghed in at 2600 with me in it
Dyno - stock vs. highest Tq with mods

93 Integra. bunch of mods
here is best stock run (used as base run)
R/T .896
60Â’ 2.321
330 6.490
1/8 9.974
MPH 70.44
1000 12.971
1/4 15.522
MPH 87.55
here is my best time with those mods listed
R/T .399
60Â’ 2.258
330 6.364
1/8 9.8
MPH 71.69
1000 12.758
1/4 15.276
MPH 89.36
Mods
- Hondata s200 w/ datalogging
- AEM CAI w/ bypass
- NGK plugs
- NGK wires
- Generic Front Strut Bar
- B&M Fuel Pressure Guage
- 95 P&P Head
- Crower Springs
- Crower Retainers
- Bronze Valve Guides
- Crower 62404 Cams
- AEM TruTime Cam Gears
- BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- Skunk 2 Intake Manifold (port match with the TB)
- RC 440 Injectors
- AEM Fuel Rail
- AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Rebuilt JDM B16 Tranny
- Clutchnet sprung 6 puck clutch
skunk 2 coils and 16" slips with kumho 712s (215 40)
wieghed in at 2600 with me in it
Dyno - stock vs. highest Tq with mods

I'm not sure what you are wanting to know. The times are about right for a Integra with only 130whp, your not going to get much better. I don't know about your mods though. You did all that work but left the stock exhaust and header on? If you spent all that money on internals and expensive parts but didn't buy the basics you should have bought first, there shouldn't be any question why your car only gained 6hp and lost 5ft/lbs of TQ.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
well, i know that different numbers in 60', 1/8, 1000, mph all can tell you different things. i am curious to know how i can drive the car better down the track. i know this car can see 14s with my current setup. Low-mid 14s with the proper exhaust system
Sucka, the G2 is hard to make fast on motor due to it being heavy as ****. With a 50 shot and slicks the car will go low 13's / high 12's all day. If you want a good slip and to go fast at the track, this is the most cost effective way. Also work on your 60's, I have been 2.0 on no-name tires. On your 15.20 pass, if you had a 2.0 60', in theory you would have ran 14.7-8.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,851
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
yeah, i know our cars are heavy AC, PS, and CC might be coming out in the near future. but as for NO2, nah, i'm going NA all the way. as for 60s, i know i need to work on my launches, i have the rt fine, but the launching i need to work on.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sucka306 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the rt fine, but the launching i need to work on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Launching and maybe some better tires would help but r/t has nothing to do with your times so don't even worry about it unless you plan on bracket racing. You could have a 3 second r/t and still run the exact same time.
Launching and maybe some better tires would help but r/t has nothing to do with your times so don't even worry about it unless you plan on bracket racing. You could have a 3 second r/t and still run the exact same time.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
yeah, i know that, but a launch (in the way i mean) does not just mean the take off, its the whole launch. i mean like rpms, clutch release, different techniques, all that crap. i know a bunch of people try different things.
why was no money spent on the bottom end? this setup in this car is pretty useless without bottom end work... especially when you already have hondata and a p&p head.
get the block sleeved to 85 and put 12.0-12.5:1 pistons in if its a daily driver i wouldnt go any higher, get a good header, run header out at the track (exhaust kills times at the track) .... should make 200 whp easy on a MD, 220+ on a Dynojet.....
get the block sleeved to 85 and put 12.0-12.5:1 pistons in if its a daily driver i wouldnt go any higher, get a good header, run header out at the track (exhaust kills times at the track) .... should make 200 whp easy on a MD, 220+ on a Dynojet.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sucka306 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, i know that different numbers in 60', 1/8, 1000, mph all can tell you different things. i am curious to know how i can drive the car better down the track. i know this car can see 14s with my current setup. Low-mid 14s with the proper exhaust system</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to bust your bubble, but I don't think you have THAT much room for improvment... A couple tenths, maybe... a whole second? No.
I hate to bust your bubble, but I don't think you have THAT much room for improvment... A couple tenths, maybe... a whole second? No.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmDXrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why was no money spent on the bottom end? this setup in this car is pretty useless without bottom end work... especially when you already have hondata and a p&p head.
get the block sleeved to 85 and put 12.0-12.5:1 pistons in if its a daily driver i wouldnt go any higher, get a good header, run header out at the track (exhaust kills times at the track) .... should make 200 whp easy on a MD, 220+ on a Dynojet..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the hondata for the fact that i wanted the safety of fuel efficiency and tuning with this package. and i have spent 2000 including parts and labor (i got good deals on a bunch of things, and others i get at cost).
the only thing i have left is the bottom end and exhaust. maybe a fuel pump, but mine is fine. injectors are getting the fuel they need. ignition is fine and will probly never be replaced.
the bottom will cost me as much as everything else did. i priced it at 2300 for everything i want to do including new pumps and gaskets and all rebuild parts.
as for open header, i think with the smsp header i will run header out. depends on the dyno results when i get it
hybrid, i know this setup can do more at the track, because i am not getting consistent 60' times. maybe if i did have more consistent 60' times and similar times all around, i would agree
thanks for the input everyone
get the block sleeved to 85 and put 12.0-12.5:1 pistons in if its a daily driver i wouldnt go any higher, get a good header, run header out at the track (exhaust kills times at the track) .... should make 200 whp easy on a MD, 220+ on a Dynojet..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the hondata for the fact that i wanted the safety of fuel efficiency and tuning with this package. and i have spent 2000 including parts and labor (i got good deals on a bunch of things, and others i get at cost).
the only thing i have left is the bottom end and exhaust. maybe a fuel pump, but mine is fine. injectors are getting the fuel they need. ignition is fine and will probly never be replaced.
the bottom will cost me as much as everything else did. i priced it at 2300 for everything i want to do including new pumps and gaskets and all rebuild parts.
as for open header, i think with the smsp header i will run header out. depends on the dyno results when i get it
hybrid, i know this setup can do more at the track, because i am not getting consistent 60' times. maybe if i did have more consistent 60' times and similar times all around, i would agree
thanks for the input everyone
once you build your bottom end you will need bigger injectors and a better fuel pump if they are both stock.
as for the dyno results... you will always get better results header out..... than with an exhaust
as for the dyno results... you will always get better results header out..... than with an exhaust
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmDXrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you build your bottom end you will need bigger injectors and a better fuel pump if they are both stock.
as for the dyno results... you will always get better results header out..... than with an exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have 440s. i got so big for a couple reasons. 1 was to ensure i had plenty of fuel for my planned setup (NA LS non vtec). 2 was to make sure i had clean ones. 3 was to let me be able to use them if i ever decide the NA route is not the way to go.
as for the pump, it is stock.
as for the dyno results... you will always get better results header out..... than with an exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have 440s. i got so big for a couple reasons. 1 was to ensure i had plenty of fuel for my planned setup (NA LS non vtec). 2 was to make sure i had clean ones. 3 was to let me be able to use them if i ever decide the NA route is not the way to go.
as for the pump, it is stock.
on one of our 12.0:1 b20vtec setups we maxed out 310cc injectors and upgraded to 440cc injectors so those should be perfect for you.
as for the fuel pump you should be fine just upgrading to a walbro 255lph intank pump ~ $80 talk to (Lightning) he has good deals for h-t members
as for the fuel pump you should be fine just upgrading to a walbro 255lph intank pump ~ $80 talk to (Lightning) he has good deals for h-t members
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sucka306 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i got the hondata for the fact that i wanted the safety of fuel efficiency and tuning with this package. and i have spent 2000 including parts and labor (i got good deals on a bunch of things, and others i get at cost).
the only thing i have left is the bottom end and exhaust. maybe a fuel pump, but mine is fine. injectors are getting the fuel they need. ignition is fine and will probly never be replaced.
the bottom will cost me as much as everything else did. i priced it at 2300 for everything i want to do including new pumps and gaskets and all rebuild parts.
as for open header, i think with the smsp header i will run header out. depends on the dyno results when i get it
hybrid, i know this setup can do more at the track, because i am not getting consistent 60' times. maybe if i did have more consistent 60' times and similar times all around, i would agree
thanks for the input everyone</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not doubting that the setup could do "more" then what you currenlty have done... I am however doubting that you have anywhere NEAR the horsepower to carry that car to low 14's... High 14, maybe... mid 14, miracles do happen... low 14, just isn't going to happen. 130 to the wheels is weak sauce. Especially for the amount of work you have done. I am not trying to hate or be a ****, just poining out the facts from what I have read.
i got the hondata for the fact that i wanted the safety of fuel efficiency and tuning with this package. and i have spent 2000 including parts and labor (i got good deals on a bunch of things, and others i get at cost).
the only thing i have left is the bottom end and exhaust. maybe a fuel pump, but mine is fine. injectors are getting the fuel they need. ignition is fine and will probly never be replaced.
the bottom will cost me as much as everything else did. i priced it at 2300 for everything i want to do including new pumps and gaskets and all rebuild parts.
as for open header, i think with the smsp header i will run header out. depends on the dyno results when i get it
hybrid, i know this setup can do more at the track, because i am not getting consistent 60' times. maybe if i did have more consistent 60' times and similar times all around, i would agree
thanks for the input everyone</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not doubting that the setup could do "more" then what you currenlty have done... I am however doubting that you have anywhere NEAR the horsepower to carry that car to low 14's... High 14, maybe... mid 14, miracles do happen... low 14, just isn't going to happen. 130 to the wheels is weak sauce. Especially for the amount of work you have done. I am not trying to hate or be a ****, just poining out the facts from what I have read.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am not doubting that the setup could do "more" then what you currenlty have done... I am however doubting that you have anywhere NEAR the horsepower to carry that car to low 14's... High 14, maybe... mid 14, miracles do happen... low 14, just isn't going to happen. 130 to the wheels is weak sauce. Especially for the amount of work you have done. I am not trying to hate or be a ****, just poining out the facts from what I have read. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i fully agree and understand where you are coming from. i know 130 is low. but i am choking a lot. if i can get some money or a hookup from my shop, i might just get a dyno run open header.
and all i want is to hit the 14s with the car as the motor sits. i dont care if its 14.99, but i still want it.
thanks for the constructive input
I am not doubting that the setup could do "more" then what you currenlty have done... I am however doubting that you have anywhere NEAR the horsepower to carry that car to low 14's... High 14, maybe... mid 14, miracles do happen... low 14, just isn't going to happen. 130 to the wheels is weak sauce. Especially for the amount of work you have done. I am not trying to hate or be a ****, just poining out the facts from what I have read. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i fully agree and understand where you are coming from. i know 130 is low. but i am choking a lot. if i can get some money or a hookup from my shop, i might just get a dyno run open header.
and all i want is to hit the 14s with the car as the motor sits. i dont care if its 14.99, but i still want it.
thanks for the constructive input
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sucka306 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i fully agree and understand where you are coming from. i know 130 is low. but i am choking a lot. if i can get some money or a hookup from my shop, i might just get a dyno run open header.
and all i want is to hit the 14s with the car as the motor sits. i dont care if its 14.99, but i still want it.
thanks for the constructive input</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will concur that high 14's are in your reach. Open up the exhaust and I think you will se around 14.8 or so.
i fully agree and understand where you are coming from. i know 130 is low. but i am choking a lot. if i can get some money or a hookup from my shop, i might just get a dyno run open header.
and all i want is to hit the 14s with the car as the motor sits. i dont care if its 14.99, but i still want it.
thanks for the constructive input</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will concur that high 14's are in your reach. Open up the exhaust and I think you will se around 14.8 or so.
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