hey all, I currently have a 2L B-series in a 1997 hatch. I've been really thinking about going with a F/H motor for bigger displacement for more NA power so I've been gathering info in the FAQ sections. Now I just want to go through some of my options with you guys for your opinions.

motor : the setup is for street and drag. I'm looking for a setup that can make power safely to 9500rpm to take advantage of the 4.785 ITR tranny that I have. I have a blown H22 longblock laying around.

option 1 : get a H23 crank for the blown H22. sleeve it... H22 rods with custom pistons.

option 2 : buy a complete h23a blue top. use the Mahle gold series pistons.

option 3 : f23 block, f23 rods, k20 pistons. h22 head

each setup will receive a ported head, big cams, Kinslers, custom header. injectors will be ID1000 and fuel will be E85. I think Option 1 will probably be the best setup, but I wanted input on options 2,3 revving that high at the track, while still driven on the street occasionally.

h2b kit :

QSD - bad hood clearance, everything else sits normal
Evolution - comes with custom mounts, etc. MAY have shifting problems.

what are your personal experiences with these 2 kits and which do u prefer more? which kit is less modifications and less time consuming to install

 

QSD pros, you can shift into each gear and never have a problem with it

EVO, depends on the mood its in, won't let you into certain gears and might pop out on you

Hands down QSD is the way to go, its a beautiful piece, well crafted.

 

I have zero problems with my Qsd kit. Plus they are always updating and adding new products. It will work with all your existing b-series parts including the mounts. You just need the kit and H longblock.

 

F20B Manual Version with Type S/Euro R cams
Bore F20B to 87mm no FRM K20 pistons
F23A Crank, F23A Race Eng. Rods
Might have to open head bore to 87mm? Or use your H22 head and swap Cams and Valve Springs/Retainers
Skunk2 IM 68mm TB

230 whp 190 trq

Your talking about $1500 on rebuild to take your F20B to 2.3L ontop of purchase motor price... pretty budget...

Pro 2 cams, valvetrain, cam gears

260 whp 190 trq

Budget motor:
H23A Vtec Blue Top stock...
215+ whp 180 trq
Wouldn't crack open bottom to just put mahles in... x2 if using mahles on stock rods especially stock no head work..

 

thanks for the responses! QSD it is

thanks ESP. I'll look into using the F23A crank with the F20B. can this setup be revved up to 9500 for drag racing? I see a lot of those setups keep a 8k rev limit.

also, do companies like Carrillo or Crower make rods for F23?

should be pretty easy to find just swap my H22 head onto this F block.

 

Personally I have used the Evo H2B kit on several project with out any issue, not to mention the guys from KS Tuned with their 8 second Outlaw civic have had great success with the same kit.

I know in the past the first version had issues with the shift fork, but the new revised kits will have no issue with shifting. Not to mention, much better hood clearance.

For your block, have you considered running an F22 crankshaft? They have a 95mm stroke and pricing for custom H-beam rods and forged pistons would be far less expensive than F23. I can hook you up for only $969 for both, hit me up for more info.

 

Contact me for qsd products.. Seth has great service and customer support

 

thanks, I'll contact u about QSD.

Julio, why is the F23 rod more expensive than the F22?

 

this is incorrect.

I spent a lot of time diagnosing others evo shifting problems while having great success with my evo kit. im willing to bet I have spent a lot more time diagnosing this issue than you or even bisi.

there was more than one cause of the problems.

redesigning the shift fork/adapter seemed help eliminate the problem of stressing the slave and master cylinders to the point where they would begin leaking in return causing the shifting problems. this was the case with mine and a couple others using the original design. most guys don't check under the dash for a leaking master...

the other more important problem was the machining tolerances on the flywheel step. it is slightly off from stock specs meaning depending on which clutch you would use and how tight their machining tolerances were on the pp compared to stock, you would end up with a setup that may or may not work.

that problem is solved by eliminating the evo flywheel and using the qsd flywheel spacer with the clutch/flywheel setup of your choice. best thing is that it allows you to run a twin disk which is important for most of us.

the qsd kit obviously works, their flywheel spacer is nice and I put it through a lot of abuse, just shy of 350whp n/a and didn't have any issues with it. Seth seems like a really cool guy over the phone and I trust his engineering theories, im sure the overall qsd kit is nice.

the evo kit is all I have used and is a nice kit with billet mounts etc. it always worked great for me aside from a leaking master cylinder which was an easy fix. I don't think you could go wrong with either kit. just keep in mind its nice to have that flywheel spacer especially if evos flywheel doesn't work out for you. it would be nice if you could get the evo kit without their flywheel

 

Why would you need "Custom" rods for a 95 crank? In all my builds with a 95 crank the setup would be a stock length H22 Rod with a custom short piston. Shelf Rods with a custom piston. no need for "Custom" rods.

Care to share what setup you are going to use with custom rods and pistons? if not then thats fine i just have never needed to go with a custom rod for a 95 crank build H22 / H23.

 

F23 rods are custom made to order. Being these engines are not as popular to build compared to other Honda applications.

Don't know why you would argue pricing of $969 for both steel H-beam rods and custom forged piston set. If you wish to have only custom pistons, I'll design them for what ever rods you got as well.

 

Jesus... Bisiclone: Go away

 

how much does the QSD kit go for??

 

Pm me for pricing

 

ok guys. so I've decided to use the QSD h2b kit

I'm ruling out the F-series block because the max it can go is 87mm. I will sleeve the H block to 90mm since I have it already.

I'm also ruling out the F23 crank because its probably wear a little too much up top. so I'm stuck with the H22 and the H23. which one would u guys go with?

once again - the car will not be a daily... but I do drive it once a month to the drags (70 miles). I'm hoping for it to last 15-20k street miles... and plenty of dyno sessions and 1/4 quarter mile runs. hoping to rebuild and refresh every 2 years. rev limit will be 9500rpm for 24.5 inch slicks and an ITR tranny with 4.928 final drive.

 

You should check out my build thread it's a 90x95 pushing 320+whp ... It's a full drag tho on q16 no daily driving

 

nice. how many pulls on the dyno, and passes have you got out of it so far? how often do u plan on rebuilding?

I'm not planning on daily driving it. I just want to be able to drive it here and there to enjoy sometimes. I also drive to the track, not trailered. and using pump E85 instead of Q16.

 

Motor must have about 10 dyno passes and 16 runs on it and plan on not rebulding til end of next season

 

oh I c. I Was hoping to put the same amount of abuse on it that I did to my current B. my current B is 85x89 sleeved. 13.5:1 compression. rev limit is 9500rpm. has about 80 dyno runs. has about 100 passes down the 1/4 mile. 15k street miles. compression is still 300 across. maybe I should just stick to the 90x90.7 setup?

 

Evo kit here... zero shift issues and hood clearance (EK).

 

^^ thanks I'll look more into it.

guys, I think I'm going to stick with the 95mm stroke. is it real important to use the h22 rod for longevity or would the h23 rod suffice?