I have a couple questions pertaining to b series transmissions
1 - You guys making over 400ft/lbs of torque, what gear set would you recommend/using? Please keep in mind im not ballin by no means(not saying I want the cheap way out, but a more budget minded I guess).Imma hillbilly from Alabama just trying to learn what it takes to hold the power and put it to the ground and last more than a few passes.
2 - Spool vs LSD?, I come from a mustang/rwd mild powered back ground (500-600whp cars), I've had spools in many rwd cars and always loved the less moving parts the better. Why ain't more people runnin spools in fwd applications? I ask because I don't know what it takes, and I wanna know what it takes to put both tires to the black top and the benefits of it.Thanks for any help, just trying to do this right the first time.

 

Try driving a FWD with a spool Not fun.

As for gear sets, If you are staying stock gear set, just pick the one that best suits you as far as gear ratio/final drive and go racing. Learn to preload on the starting line (people say it helps to save trannys. I have no proof of that, but i have always preloaded and have never broken an axle or trans.)

 

im on a gsr gear set with a quafe man

i do have carbon synchro's and that seems to make it last a little longer.

i have a cuff to go in pretty soon as well

im at 408flb

 

Imma big boy and think I can handle it lol, im kidding. Is it tough as in fighting it down the track or around the pits and what not? Im stupid because I don't know. I can assume that being the spool being on your powered and steering end of the car it would be tough around the pits it street driving(which I have no intentions of doing), but I can't understand goin down the track the down fall to it? If there is please learn me something, cause I ain't no fan of waisting my hard earned money.

 

Thanks for the replies also fellas, the cuff is another question. Im assuming seeing the way its designed/installed, it basically eliminates 5th gear, and braces both gear set shafts to prevent "spreadin" under load? I could imagine seeing the way honda trannys are built it would kill 2nd gear while making some serious power. Sorry if im asking alot guys, I just don't know like I've said, the most power I've ever made out of a honda was 450whp/290ftlbs, and a stock lsd gsr trans done the job. Thanks again fellas

 

if an axle brakes with a spool theres a good chance of the car going in to the wall or the car in the other lane,spend the money and buy a good diff

 

Well that's pretty blunt and to the point, I like it. Good diff recommendations?

 

What these guys said. Driving around the pits, or anything to do with maneuvering, is a pain with a spool. I just had a lincoln locker, but same concept. Its not bad on the streets, as the tires will slip. But on slicks, with big sidewalls that give and have no air in them, its REALLY a bitch to drive around. As well as the fact that, if you snap an axle in a FWD, its gonna pull you to the other side, like one said into the wall.

On the power level you are expecting, you should be ok with a stock gearset. I was making 550-600whp(not sure on torque, but would imagine 420+). Stock gears, no cuff, original synchros, and it held up great.

One thing I was told with the cuff, is its a waste off $200 on stock gears. Stock gears are helical. From what I have heard, helical gears will pull themselves together. While straight cut gears will pull apart. So a cuff works great for straight cut sets, but with helical, if you keep them from pulling together, youre more likely to do more damage than good. But thats just my .02. I think its a bandaid that isnt fully understood, and doesnt do what people think it will. If you need a cuff, you probably need a gearset to go with it

 

Thanks guys, you've all pretty much answered my big questions, guess I need to get my *** to work and start snatching up some over time.

 

i disagree on the stock gears not seperating as i went through 3 sets from well them seperating and bangin lol

 

So whats the real story do they or do they not seperate on a stock gear set?

 

Judging by a good friend of mines integra that ran 10.40s on 600whp on a stock gear set they do move, reason I say that is because last year he tore the trans out a few times to replace 2nd gear multiple times.Recommendations to was to go with a face plated gear set and a cuff, just what I've seen personally, on my setup I think Imma go with same. Hope this helps you, because I've gotten a few answers I need.

 

Lets stop this rumor before it gets out of hand. Both helical and straight gears will push away from eachother as one applies torque and the other resists. The torque a gear applies is always perpendicular to the face of the gears. For that reason the striaght cut gears only have one axis of load because the face of the gears is perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Helical gear faces are at an angle to the direction of rotation which applies loads in both the direction of rotation and the direction perpendicular to rotation. This is a percentage base on the angle (the buttons on the calculator sin, cos, tan ).

Long story short, a cuff is a good idea. Both types the gears will start to spread apart. As they do the load on the tooth is more toward the tip and the teeth will finally give way.

OP: stock gearset, cuff, and a helical LSD will do the job.

 

well put man i couldnt have said it that way lol

yes a cuff/lsd/carbon synchros will give you great peace of mind

 

Thank you for good informative answers

 

With a spool, you wont have to worry about the axles breaking, if you have a good set of axles (DSS)

 

What brand cuff is everyone using?

 

even the best of axles brake some times

 

Sounds good and I thank you, but since your obviously way more intelligent than myself, I have another question. Are carbon coated gear sets worth it? Meaning for added security, I ask because for years and my poor attempt at building the few hondas I have, I've pissed money away doing dumb ****, and end up having to work on my **** alot when I get to the track or beat on it, this go round I want to do it once and not worry about it for awhile. I understand **** breaks, and honda ain't got the best trans out there, but I wanna make sure im not building a tranny every month, if it gives me trouble once a year im ok with that. Thanks again guys for the information.

 

As mentioned above..A cuff is a great idea and I would budget it in if possible. I would also go with an LSD from either M-Factory or Quaife. I understand the whole less moving parts thing..but, with a FWD its a little different. Its not only a pain to turn in the pits or anywhere in general...its also a safety thing. I have had a few spooled cars..and I won't do it again One close call is good enough for me! Carbon synchros will aid in high RPM shifting and quality.

 

i run a liberty cuff

 

A heat treat will help alot at this power level.

Steve

 

Yes, I believe carbon lined synchros are worth it if you stay with a synchronized gearset. The synchro works like a brake on the gear and that lining is more effective then just brass or steel.
However, if the car is a "track only" car I would recommend you get away from a synchronized gearset all together. Dog box gearsets are spendy, but worth it. A lower cost dog box option is liberty's faceplating treatment. It can be done to the stock gears and cost about the same as what you will spend on carbon synchros, sleeves, and hubs for 1st-4th .

 

Good info, I guess I need to start shopping around and try to find a gear set, cuff, and lsd. Thanks again

 

Oh and I almost forgot, on a 24.5" tire, what final drive would be ideal? Power level should be around 650+ with a gsr geared trans on 24.5". My guess is if im spinning the motor to 9500(if the damn thang will make power all the way there), the stock 4.40 final drive would ne sufficient no?