today I was at the shop working on my project, and a friend of mine came in saying he is tired of the stupid restrictor fitting that is in his E46 BMW, we both have the same Bmw and I did not know they came with a flow control valve. he removed it and throw it out, I took it and it fits perfectly in my in my B series slave cylinder using rywire clutch line. It looks similar to the tilton overpriced one. by the way I use a competition twin plate clutch in a boosted b20 vtec.

just thought I would share that there are other options out there that works.

 

I thought the same a while ago. Beats paying silly prices for a bit of metal with a hole in it.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/wich-flow-valve-do-you-use-if-any-3017729/

 

did it worked out for you?

 

Not finished the build yet so I could not tell you, cant see why it would not work though, the only problem i can see is it slowing the gear change up a little.

 

wouldn't happen to have a part number? and any pics of the install?

 

You can make your own for $20... not that hard.

 

^^^^care to share how? I am interested thanks.

 

I will post a picture tomorrow.

 

im in for a pic

 

x3 on the pic and how too

 

I will post some pics of the install, but I cannot promise the part number, but since my daily driver is a E46 it should be possible to find the number from the dealer.

 

In

 

pic of it installed.

 

http://zeckhausen.com/cdv.htm

 

Flow Control Valve: The flow is unrestricted when the pedal is pressed and the clutch is disengaged. The fluid is restricted through an orfice as the clutch engages and flows back toward the master cylinder. The orfice size controls the time it takes to fully engage the clutch. Pretty simple.

Here is a DIY flow control valve. The inlet and outlet are inverted flare to use with stock style clutch lines. A nitrous jet is seated against the inlet with a spring. The inlet fitting is chamfered for the jet to seat in. When the fluid travels from the master cylinder it blows the jet off it seat and travels around it. When the fluid travels from the slave to the master the spring and fluid seat the jet and the fluid must travel through the orfice.

Here is the explored pic:


Assembled:


Same thing, but with -3AN instead of inverted flare:



Here is the one I built for our racecar. It does the same thing, but has a line lock to bypass the nitrous jet. This allows us to fine tune the engagement at launch, but shift normal for the rest of the run.

 

simple

 

So cool Andy, Reid got lucky when he found you!

 

Do you have jet size recommendations? What did you get the spring off? Looks like it fits the jet perfect. I've been thinking of building one of these for the launch for a while as well.
Thanks for sharing!

 

What is this for exactly? Less shock to the clutch between shifts?

 

Thwre are alot of variables that will effect jet size, so I can't really recommend anything. I would say start with something around .025" and go from there. The spring is out of a b series transmission. Its the detent for the selector shaft.

Most people install these in hopes that it will lessen the drivetrain shock. However, I am using it to accomplish something else Still a working theory so I dont really want to share.

I just wanted to post how to build one cheap. What you want to get from it is up to you.

 

to Kaizenspeed!

 

i bought one of these from mcmaster-carr for $30 plus the fittings... it works well and ill be testing it at the track tonight...



it will probably just show up the catalog page, but if you search the part number it will locate it on the page for you... part# 4982K71

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4982K71

 

Good post. How did this work out?

 

I forgot my allen wrench to adjust it, I was a little loose and I borrowed a wrench to adjust it once, but I still want to speed it up... it was NICE on the launch for sure..

 

What clutch do you have? Are you logging slip?