Guys, if you are gonna install a cut-off switch, why would you go half *** on it? Or go through the hassle of trying to sneak it past tech inspections by taking the belt of then putting it back on before racing?

Seems to me, these rules are there for your safety and other's safety at the track. If you go through the hassle of installing the switch, it doesn't look that much harder to just run the wire to the alternater and do it right, right??

 

well anouther reason we have our kill switch on the alt. is for tunning purposes too.

 

I'm not sure what switch fits my needs though. I don't know what the constant amperage would be. Is the 20 amp constant 175 burst enough? I can't imagine what they would make it for if it won't work on at least a Honda. What car could possibly be raced enough to have a switch made for it but not turn enough juice to need higher amperage switch than a Honda needs.

Anyway as for ...

Because 4 post switch costs about $90 plus about $25 in wire and IMO adds much more overall fire risk on a daily driver having the wire going to the rear and back to the front vs. $29 for a Moroso 2 post battery switch and no wiring. The battery relocation has already cost me about $200 total which is tapping my funds [$100 for the box $50 for a breaker $ just under 50 for wiring]. I can't see spending another $125 for one day of racing.

Its easier to pull the belt, and the manager of tech at the track told me that pulling the belt is the most logical way to do it on a street car (although he didn't include putting it back on). I wouldn't put it back on if I honestly believed there was any risk at all... over all though, you're right, I shouldn't do it, but for one day out of the year, I just can't afford it.


[Modified by therealciviczc, 2:00 PM 6/18/2002]

 

Look at the summit mag. We use their brand shut off switch. I forget the amps of hand, but it will tell you in their. It was between 20 and 30 bucks and it works just fine.......Mike

 

You have to have a switch even though your batt is in the front? What the hell? I guess i have to change my game plan.

 

yep. If you move it from the stock location...even if it's still in front of the firewall, you have to mount the switch.

 

Stupid rules but If I'm going to race I have to follow the stupid rules.

 

i have the same problem. i mounted my optima gel cell batt in the trunk because it doesnt fit in the front. well i found out at palmdale that this is illegal to run like this. he was cool about it and let me race but since i knew this wasnt gonna always happen, i had to do something to fix it. he reccommended the license plate thing too, but i rather not have that, and some jerk turn off the car blah blah blah. plus my door handles are shaved so if anything happens i may be screwed. anyway, i just took a stock old battery and mounted it in the front, made some fake wires, and im good. havent had problems with techs since. *knock on wood*

this is ur best bet though, they wont bother to look twice. in the future ill be getting another batt for the front anyhow, just to power my stereo toys. damn optima is just too big.

krazy