Custom wiring..
more importantly, where can the sensor plugs be found/bought at...Im about to start my engine harness, and want to use new plugs, but could not find the ANYWHERE! I did find something that said you have to buy like 1000 plugs at a time just to get them!!! Could this possibly be trew?
If I cant find them new, I guess I'll have to hack some plugs off a wrecked car at the junk yard...and solder them in.
If I cant find them new, I guess I'll have to hack some plugs off a wrecked car at the junk yard...and solder them in.
I dont remember the names of the plugs off the top of my head...and I dont feel like digging out the helms...
I need the plugs for such sensors as the VSS, Vtec solenoid, TPS, air intake temp, coolant temp, etc...pretty much ever plug for every sensor on the motor, being that I am making my own wire harness.
I would also like to be able to get the terminals, and the crimping tool ment for them.
I need the plugs for such sensors as the VSS, Vtec solenoid, TPS, air intake temp, coolant temp, etc...pretty much ever plug for every sensor on the motor, being that I am making my own wire harness.
I would also like to be able to get the terminals, and the crimping tool ment for them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd_styles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't you have the original harness? Couldn't you use the plugs there?
I don't know about terminals though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, I actualy have a couple differnt harnesses from various projects laying arround, with enough of the plugs I need to make my harness. I just want to start out with all new plugs and so forth. I know I can just solder in the used plugs....but it seems kinda ghetto to me...call me **** I guess...
I don't know about terminals though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, I actualy have a couple differnt harnesses from various projects laying arround, with enough of the plugs I need to make my harness. I just want to start out with all new plugs and so forth. I know I can just solder in the used plugs....but it seems kinda ghetto to me...call me **** I guess...
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What you need to do then is find a local electronics store. We have one called chester here. They should have everything you need, but otherwise I know the NAPA's usually carry them too.
If you want to do it right, you can get the honda crimp pins and reuse your plugs with new mil spec wire. Ron is right, Motec has by far the best wiring around!
Just a suggestion for those of you considering rebuilding your wiring harnesses with factory ECU's. Be sure to check and double check the gauge of wire being used. I've seen people run into problem after problem by using the wrong gauge of wire, and don't forget, length of wire also factors in resistance.
Clayton
Clayton
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ron is right, Motec has by far the best wiring around!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definately agree, Tefzel jacketed wire along with Raychem shrink tubing is an awesome combination... It also looks better than a fully rewired engine harness with new loom with 3M Super 33+... It's alright to be picky Ryan, you know I am extremely meticulous about this kinda or stuff too... The only time I've ever been able to use all brand new connectors was when they came with a standalone... What EMS are you planning on running with your new motor? Even if it's just Hondata or something similar I would definately go with Tefzel and Raychem products, in the end you'll have a lot nicer looking harness... Good Luck
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 6:00 PM 2/22/2004
I would definately agree, Tefzel jacketed wire along with Raychem shrink tubing is an awesome combination... It also looks better than a fully rewired engine harness with new loom with 3M Super 33+... It's alright to be picky Ryan, you know I am extremely meticulous about this kinda or stuff too... The only time I've ever been able to use all brand new connectors was when they came with a standalone... What EMS are you planning on running with your new motor? Even if it's just Hondata or something similar I would definately go with Tefzel and Raychem products, in the end you'll have a lot nicer looking harness... Good Luck
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 6:00 PM 2/22/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What EMS are you planning on running with your new motor? Even if it's just Hondata or something similar I would definately go with Tefzel and Raychem products, in the end you'll have a lot nicer looking harness... Good Luck 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
AEM EMS 30-1020
Thanks for the tips on the Tefzel and Raychem! I'll be looking them up on google tonight.
Tony, where can the honda Crimp pins, and crimp tool be found? I'll give google a try for those as well.
Modified by InfamousRS at 9:57 AM 2/24/2004

</TD></TR></TABLE>
AEM EMS 30-1020
Thanks for the tips on the Tefzel and Raychem! I'll be looking them up on google tonight.
Tony, where can the honda Crimp pins, and crimp tool be found? I'll give google a try for those as well.
Modified by InfamousRS at 9:57 AM 2/24/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousRS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tony, where can the honda Crimp pins, and crimp tool be found? I'll give google a try for those as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not 100% sure, but if the pins are like the ones ive worked with you also need a little tool to take them out of the connecter
Tony, where can the honda Crimp pins, and crimp tool be found? I'll give google a try for those as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not 100% sure, but if the pins are like the ones ive worked with you also need a little tool to take them out of the connecter
Most of the actual Honda connector pins are the same (given they are nonOBD or OBDI/II, the only real difference is the rubber grommet but they are very close to being the exact same)... I don't actually know where to buy the individual pins which could then be crimped on to your own wire but releasing them is all the same and not a big deal... I just use my stainless steel dental pick set...
Putting a wiring harness togather that consist of Tefzel wires and Raychem products like the DR-25 Shrinks, Transition, molded parts is not a easy task. Plus is alot of money wasted if the harness is not well design before the making process. Every Mil-spec connector depends on the size is about 40 dollars or more and it still needs a back shield for the connector and that's like 10 bucks, the Raychem boot that is going on the back shield is another 15 to 25 bucks depends on the size. Plus there is alot of tools that is need to be buy to make this type of harness properly, like types of heat gun, labels machine for the tags on harness, software to design the wiring harness(This isn't a must), different sizes of Mil-spec crimper with different types of contacts, and the list just keeps rolling down.....Just to give a estimate on the cost, I spend over 10 Grand just on my Motec Boxes alone with the custom wiring I design for the whole car(Oh! by the way I have a Race EG hatch that will probably never see the track, but I do plan on taking it to a couple of shows this year if I does have time). It takes alot of time design and making the harness, I have done a couple of them, from little bikes to cars that is equip with a engine. I give the estimate cost for all the necessary tooling 2 Grand if not more, and that is not include the harness design software nor the Tags making printer, and the software. But if you wish to go the same road that I did, as Tony1 had stated Tyco Eletronics does have all the Raychem DR-25 product which is what you need and the M22759 Tefzel wires that is require for most the Autosport and Milspec connectors. Sorry for the long post! Just try to help out on the ideas!
Yea no doubt about it, that stuff isn't cheap but it's worth it "look wise", especially if you're really ****/weird like me, hehe... If you've got the money I'd still do it anyday...
Arturbo....DR-25 is a shrink that Raychem had name it that meets up to the Military Standard. It is made out from Elastomer, The operation temp for this DR-25 Shrink is -67F to 302F. This type of shrink requires a min full recovery temp of 150C to 175C to Shrink depends on the size(So a good heat gun will be needed for this application). DR-25 has the size available from 1/8in to 3in, but the common use is probably not over 1in in tubing. Also the DR-25 is Flame-retardant. The easy description for the DR-25=Diesel-resistant elastomer. For futher info Raychem offers a couple of books that might help while in the making of the harness.





