I've been re-searching and such on cages and I decided on an S & W 10 point weld in cage.

I'm going to weld the cage myself, and have been looking for what i need to have it pass tech/cert.

this diagram is the most informative piece of information i've found and it doesnt cover the bars forward of the main hoop.



so i was wondering if anyone had any additional info or suggestions on what to do to make sure I stay legal. I've heard that the door bars are required to pass between your shoulder and elbow, and things like this arent listed where i've looked.

thanks in advance for the help.

 

my s&w main hoop was severely bent in to the point of where i couldn't use it at all. I dont reccomend their cage's at all. i would talk to the guys at nrg tech or other shops that do cages and see if you can buy the chromemoly tubing from them

 

nothing was wrong with my SW and they have been doing cages and tube chassis for decades

 

I got a s&w cage too. The main hoop was fine. The only thing wrong with it was the pillar bars were to long and needed to be bent inward a bit. The notching needed to be improved too. There should be more info in the rule book for a full 10 point cage. Check the most recent rule book. It doesnt matter if its sports compact or domestic. The NHRA certification for both cages are the same.

 

here is the diagram that came with my S&W 10pnt. It doesn't give too much detail about the forward bars, but there's a bit on the detail of the rocker bar.

 

s&w fits like **** dont buy. i cut one out of my car and bought a real cage.

 

i just did this myself with a 6pt bar. i found it pretty hard to find definative info more than what you have already posted. i think a decent amount of what will pass is dependant on the tech. i just made sure that the side bar passes through my upper arm about 1/3 of the way up from my elbow to my shoulder, and the hoop is less than 6" from behind my head (im about 3-4")

my bar was sold as a moroso, but i think some research showed it was another company supplying moroso. the fitment is pretty good for a prebent imo. the hoop sides are right up next to the rockers and i shouldnt have but an inch or so between the bar and the plastic interior pieces. all the pipes are left extra long to ensure i could cut to fit and not run out of room. the only mistake i made was cutting the bottom of the main hoop a little short, so it sits a little more than an inch under the headliner, with enough room to get my fingers between the bar and the dome light.










lol i think its obvious im not a professional welder...

 

JR Racing in the Bronx, I am personally shopping around for a cage and I have found that they do some nice work. I visted the shop this past week and saw what they can do. Check them out for yourself!!

 

Also check out the new standard for 2010. I know they made some adjustments to the bars behind your front seat. Best bet is to buy the NHRA 2010 Spec book online.

 

I dont need advice on what cage to buy.....

I just wanted more detailed info on the installation. Thanks to those with informative posts.

 

whats interesting is our cage tech will pass that rocker bar with it welded within in the main hoop and not welded to seperate plates. Go figure. My SW Cage fits fine.

 

Some of the cages I've seen with stickers on them were a disaster......I wouldn't worry to much about measurements. My cage got certed.....and I was pissed cause I went threw hell doing it exactly how the nhra wanted it and the guy didn't even check most of it

 

Yeah they def made some new adjustments to the cages for 2010 cert, the rear bars coming off the main hoop need to be welded to the floor and not the bar that goes from the rear strut tower to strut tower. the other bar needs to be where the steel plates goes under the rear seat on ek's. You connect the bar that goes straight through the main hoop with two 45 degree bars that go to a straight bar that connects the main hoop together and brings it all together.

 

dude, you did a TERRIBLE job explaining that, and running the rear bars to a cross bar between the strut towers is acceptable and MUCH stronger and safer than going to the this *** metal floor back there.

 

Have you passed tech with it setup like this? I welded a bar across the two rear strut towers to put the rear bars on as i didnt feel comfortable going to the floor. Later i realized this is from my understanding technically not legal. I have not been to the track yet but will be done with the car soon and heading there.

 

I know several people with high dollar cages that have the rear bars going to a bar between the rear struts, I dont see what the issue is......

 

the cage tech i use said that was ideal for our cars. that is THE strongest part of the rear of the car.

 

The way you have it welded "should" lower your 60's because it reduces the amout of flex. I have seen this on a couple of cars I don't see what the big deal is, it should pass tech..

 

my SW not certified, dont a need a halo and frotn section to be nhra?

 

That cage is all jacked for NHRA...... no D-Bars, pretty sure you need a one piece harness bar, the door bars look like they are almost on the floor, and it has some sort of "Autopower SCCA" theme going on with it as well..... not to mention its purple

 

it was built to fit exactly how you just described it. it was intended for just autoX and some local track use but nothing that had to be sanctioned..... but now i have changed my mind after a year of doing that and want to go more towards drag racing. its not a prob to cut the cage out. the D bars are what go from the harness bar/main hoop joint down towards the middle of the floor right?

 

so for those of you that are welding your own cages in, are you welding the mild steel cages in or chromoly? i was just curious cuz i spent a **** ton of money getting a chromoly 10 point put in my teg and am not sure i wana go that road again with my crx if i can weld my own cage in. i thought that the nhra cages were supposed to be tig welded and not mig? just thought id double check, i like this thread

 

mild steel can be migged or tigged, where as chromoly must be tigged.

 

That is exactly how my cage is but it is now illegal/wont pass inspection(apparently). HE was telling ME that because the rear strut towers are the strongest part of the car that they want those two bars to go to plates onto the rear further for whatever reason they believe is right.(I PERSONALLY believe it makes more sense to go to the strut towers) BUT I am just reiterating what an NHRA OFFICIAL(Bob Nixon) had told me in October when he came to my garage to put a sticker on my cage. That from 2010 and on that you cant run the bars from the main hoop to the strut tower bar, they have to go to the floor. Sorry if i couldn't explain it any better

 

my cage is like that and past with no problems

I have seen hundreds of cages that have that setup and pass without hesitation