If I was looking to make a mid ten second daily driven (boosted) 93 EG would I be better of going with an h22 or b18c?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen602 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was looking to make a mid ten second daily driven (boosted) 93 EG would I be better of going with an h22 or b18c?</TD></TR></TABLE>

too many variables to "h22 or b18". If I were you, i'd start by reading every post in the FI faq thread. Then read it 3 more times, then read ever post in the FI forum. In other words, research is your friend. gl.

 

it only takes about 380-430Whp and decent suspension and gearing to hit tens so search around. but my vote is B-series the H-series maybe but only if you get a H2B kit with some good gears. but you also need to lose some weight somewhere on the car to make up for the weight gain

 

b18c, that's what i got

 

If you have to ask, then you don't need a car that fast...

 

Blown90Hatch has run consistant 10.10's on a b series on a most definate street car.

 

wow! thanks for the great advice jjspec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwappedTURBOegg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have to ask, then you don't need a car that fast...</TD></TR></TABLE>
** i mean swappedturboegg ...... typo anyway thanks for the crappy reply you make the world more interesting

 

geez now i feel bad

 

B18c5, and drive to the track doing 10.5 at 145mph then drive back home too.

 

 

It really depends on how much money you have and how much your car weighs. What are your plans or goals?

 

Easy. You only need 400whp for 10's in an EG with the typical weight reduction and good driving.

Either will work, H22 is way better (if you are sleeving both motors).

No replacement for displacement.

H2B &gt; B-series

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easy. You only need 400whp for 10's in an EG with the typical weight reduction and good driving.

Either will work, H22 is way better (if you are sleeving both motors).

No replacement for displacement.

H2B &gt; B-series</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i said just reorganized

 

&lt;- H-Series
&lt;- B-Series

 

A 10 second honda would make for a horrible daily. Have fun driving around with no A/C or heat, no power steering, bumpy *** ride, loud, not to mention you're going to be putting tons of miles on you're car. Theres a difference between street legal and streetable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AmericanByTheGraceOfGod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 10 second honda would make for a horrible daily. Have fun driving around with no A/C or heat, no power steering, bumpy *** ride, loud, not to mention you're going to be putting tons of miles on you're car. Theres a difference between street legal and streetable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. it only takes 400 wheel hp and 280 wheel torque to run 10's
2. if you look at number 1 you can still have A/C an heat even if you have 650Whp
3. hondas dont need power steering there light i weight 126lbs. an i can drive perfect without PS
4. suspension is easily changable its only the back coilovers that i personally change out. im running PIC selects. 10K-front and 12K-rear the drag coilovers are 18K., and traction bars
5. if your worried about your motor lasting i agree it wont last maybe 60,000 miles but hey most engines that make over 500Whp dont last to long, its called matiance. it cost money but hey thats the price you pay to go fast in anything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AmericanByTheGraceOfGod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 10 second honda would make for a horrible daily. Have fun driving around with no A/C or heat, no power steering, bumpy *** ride, loud, not to mention you're going to be putting tons of miles on you're car. Theres a difference between street legal and streetable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you, a grandma?

Ever been to a Honda-Tech meet? 90% of the cars there have no A/C, no power steering, gutted interiors and aftermarket exhausts. This isn't that much different.

I agree it wouldn't be the ideal daily driver but it's possible for sure.

 

I drive a loud bumpy Vtak myself im just saying that would be a crappy daily.

Those people with gutted interiors and no PS dont daily drive them, its usually their weekend toy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Either will work, H22 is way better (if you are sleeving both motors).

No replacement for displacement.

H2B &gt; B-series</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> &lt;- H-Series
&lt;- B-Series</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent seen a H series turbo car own a B series turbo car yet,and i dont think i will!!!
The B is superior to the H,if it wanst the case all the top competitors would be utilizing the H.
B&gt;H hands down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aggressive Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I havent seen a H series turbo car own a B series turbo car yet,and i dont think i will!!!
The B is superior to the H,if it wanst the case all the top competitors would be utilizing the H.
B&gt;H hands down</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's because the H was limited by crappy transmissions up until about a year ago.

With H2B as a possibility there is no way you are going to tell me B is better.

H has a head from the factory that out flows the **** out of any B head. Virtually every top competitor sleeves their block so that gets rid of the FRM bullshit.

H2B and K are the future of Hondas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AmericanByTheGraceOfGod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drive a loud bumpy Vtak myself im just saying that would be a crappy daily.

Those people with gutted interiors and no PS dont daily drive them, its usually their weekend toy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's funny I've been daily driving my 437whp hatch for over 2 years

 

i just want to say thanks to everyone for advice....... but i am really leaning toward the h22 ( but will it be able to handle up to 10 psi boost? ) i plan on going all out sleeving, rods, pistons, H2B!!!, and all that good stuff... as far as comfort i could careless if i wanted a comfortable 10 second car i would save for a bugatti lol, powersteering, ac, and interior from front seats back is as good as gone .... the total budget is 30k " in a two year build "

 

and as far as loudness its getting apexi ws2 ..... makes for an intoxicating sound

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen602 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just want to say thanks to everyone for advice....... but i am really leaning toward the h22 ( but will it be able to handle up to 10 psi boost? ) i plan on going all out sleeving, rods, pistons, H2B!!!, and all that good stuff... as far as comfort i could careless if i wanted a comfortable 10 second car i would save for a bugatti lol, powersteering, ac, and interior from front seats back is as good as gone .... the total budget is 30k " in a two year build " </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you just ask if a fully built block can handle 10 psi??