Wiring a Head Unit
From one nOOb to another... Yes.
The Positive (+) red terminal is nominally +12volts, the negative (-) black terminal is ground -- connected to the vehicle's chassis.
Typically head units don't draw so much current that they need to be connected directly to the battery... unless you have some particular reason for doing so.
Lastly, INSTALL A FUSE!!! (Preferably near the battery.)
The Positive (+) red terminal is nominally +12volts, the negative (-) black terminal is ground -- connected to the vehicle's chassis.
Typically head units don't draw so much current that they need to be connected directly to the battery... unless you have some particular reason for doing so.
Lastly, INSTALL A FUSE!!! (Preferably near the battery.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ford no more »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Typically head units don't draw so much current that they need to be connected directly to the battery... unless you have some particular reason for doing so.
Lastly, INSTALL A FUSE!!! (Preferably near the battery.)</TD></TR></TABLE> You are right about the fuse, however, more and more of today's "high power" HU require more currant then the oem constant power can supply, most Honda/Acuras oem radio harness constant power is fused at 7.5A, most newer HU need at least 10A on the constant input, [yellow] line. At the same time the oem ground wire is not adequate, so grounding the HU directly to the chassis, or adding a ground from the chassis of the HU to the chassis of the car is needed to get the full performance out of the internal amps in today's HUs.
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Typically head units don't draw so much current that they need to be connected directly to the battery... unless you have some particular reason for doing so.
Lastly, INSTALL A FUSE!!! (Preferably near the battery.)</TD></TR></TABLE> You are right about the fuse, however, more and more of today's "high power" HU require more currant then the oem constant power can supply, most Honda/Acuras oem radio harness constant power is fused at 7.5A, most newer HU need at least 10A on the constant input, [yellow] line. At the same time the oem ground wire is not adequate, so grounding the HU directly to the chassis, or adding a ground from the chassis of the HU to the chassis of the car is needed to get the full performance out of the internal amps in today's HUs.
94
If the stock Hu is still in your car, get the Metra harness adpt. for your car, jerk out the yellow lead out of the adpt, harness, all the other connections from the HU harness to the adpt harness will be color for color, [easy as cake, piece of pie] run the fused line from the batt, and connect that to the HU yellow, like I said, it will be almost "plug and play".
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araknis
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Jan 21, 2003 09:53 AM



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