My current amp is a Pioneer gm-x962 (250w x 2 / 760w x 1) puts out contiously 125w x 2@4ohms, 380w x 1@4ohms, or 190w x2@2ohms. I've always run 1 12" sub at the second of those three, just to have the most use of the amp. I've had 2 Infinity References, 2 JBL 1000 GT, and 1 Kenwood KFC-W3005 and they've all benn pretty much 300 RMS or better, but they've all blown. What am I doing wrong? What sub should I run thats not going to cost me a fortune? (less than $150) Also they've all been in a Q-Logic ported box. Can someone point me in the right direction?

 

get a sealed box and don't turn it up so loud. infinity

 

you can fry(voicecoil) or/and blow a sub by having it up to loud. The reason being is because there is distortion when you turn it up to loud what i did was unhook my sub and turned my radio up until i heard it through my fronts and when i did i found out where it begins and how loud i could turn it up.
but its better to get am amp with an internal x-over because you can adjust the freq-gain-bass from the amp and get a much better sound.
I had blown through about 8 different subs b4 finding one that will hold and i run 1 12" so you might have to do alot of exchanging to find one that puts out the bass you are looking for. also depends on what you want Spl or SQ so it al plays into each other but this is a good site http://www.crutchfield.com the are the most knowledable that i can think

 

ps- lose the ported box. go bandpass or sealed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93integraB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My current amp is a Pioneer gm-x962 (250w x 2 / 760w x 1) puts out contiously 125w x 2@4ohms, 380w x 1@4ohms, or 190w x2@2ohms. I've always run 1 12" sub at the second of those three, just to have the most use of the amp. I've had 2 Infinity References, 2 JBL 1000 GT, and 1 Kenwood KFC-W3005 and they've all benn pretty much 300 RMS or better, but they've all blown. What am I doing wrong? What sub should I run thats not going to cost me a fortune? (less than $150) Also they've all been in a Q-Logic ported box. Can someone point me in the right direction?</TD></TR></TABLE> I would look at size and tuning of the box, all 3 subs would have needed diff. size box's and/or port length, the other thing I would look at is how the amp is wired for power both 12V+ and ground, if the amp is not getting all the current, [amps] it needs, it can't make the RMS watts it was designed for, so the output is low and the distortion is high, and that is hard on the speaker. or maybe you are trying to get more out of the system then it is designed for, maybe you need a bigger amp and more or more powerful subs 94

 

yeah, i've already contacted crutchfield about it. their response was that since i did not purchase the amp from them (although all 7 or so subs were bought from their store) they could not really be of assistance. the amp does have a low pass filter, which is on, and the gain is adjustable. i've thought about closing the port tube since it has a cover, but the quality of the sound seems to be lost??

 

becareful when you set the gain because yes it will make the speaker hit HARD but will blow it really fast

 

A personal favorite of mine are the Soundstream Exact 10's. I ran three in my vehicle and never had a problem with them. I was using the PPI 500.1 amp and it was only turned up 1/4 gain and it pounded them. They have a real solid construction. I have two for sale if you are interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93integraB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i've already contacted crutchfield about it. their response was that since i did not purchase the amp from them (although all 7 or so subs were bought from their store) they could not really be of assistance. the amp does have a low pass filter, which is on, and the gain is adjustable. i've thought about closing the port tube since it has a cover, but the quality of the sound seems to be lost??</TD></TR></TABLE>Well there you go, I bet if you had got the subs at a local retail outlet they would be more then happy to help, and I bet your problem would have been solved before you went through 7 subs

Just plugging the port is not going to solve your problem, the box has to be the right size for a particular sub.

From what I can find out at Pioneer's web site is that the amp is rated at 145W x 2 into 4 ohms and 440W x 1 into 4 ohms, it's not stable below 4 ohms when bridged, but the "specs" are being fudged as they use words like "nominal" and "min." no RMS, not at what voltage, no frequencies and no distortion rate, [THD] so it's hard to say what the true RMS watts of the amp is, I would be surprised if it was over 300W RMS x 1 into 4 ohms, but that should be enough to drive a 300W sub no problem, maybe there is a problem with the amp.

This is for a Kicker sub but read all of it, http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-...0.pdf it will give you a better understanding of how a sub works and a better idea of what kind of box will work for you, Kicker also has a 2 for 1 sub sale going on right now, http://www.kicker.com/05/05kicker.html 94