This is so messed up that when I tried to get the alarm brain out that the dash started smoking. To find out that someone was lazy with fuses and wrapped wire around them under the hood. I should of know this car was going to be bad news.

 

I dont think my cars nearly as bad lol

 

how and the hell can you call yourself a installer. How can you do this to someones car

 

Gawwd. That's nasty. I wish I had the pictures of the wiring job on this f'ing POS Mazda that was riced to the bone. You would **** your self seeing this job.

 

I not suppose to be working on cars right now. this thing is making me sick. lol

 

Pulling a late one, huh? Good luck with that. Have a beer if you are allowed to. Did a Remote start in an 02 Silverado today, that wasn't hard, It was just time consuming.

 

no beer,not enough blood.lol

 

seen worse, but i hate working on cars that already been worked on.. like the one you are doing now haha

 

just gonna laugh at me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboekcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seen worse, but i hate working on cars that already been worked on.. like the one you are doing now haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah its the worst trying to fix someone elses problem.

 

I'd say about 90% of the alarms I pull have wiring looking exactly like that.

The dealerships wiring is usually somewhat organized, but zero attempt at concealment, they use scotch locks which cause the alarm to fail prematurely, and they use the brand Karr, which is pure crap. People think that dealership alarms are factory WHICH THEY ARE NOT. Dealership alarms are aftermarket.

If the customer has neon lighting, a turbo timer, and/or jdm sidemarkers wired up like crap, I wont even install an alarm.

 

What the hell happened under there. Lazy installer, crappy installation. Dont people solder anymore?

 

My my...that is a ton of wires

 

In the first pic, directly under the knee bolster, there's a red wire going down and to the left... Is that a t-tap with another t-tap attached directly behind it??

Also... That's a pretty blue screwdriver you've got there...

 

T-taps are worthless and should never be used. Man, ive seen 100's of installs like that. I charge extra to remove the old alarm

 

did he wrap all the alarm wires in bright green to make it easier to find?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did he wrap all the alarm wires in bright green to make it easier to find? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was actually going to ask about the candy cane loom...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did he wrap all the alarm wires in bright green to make it easier to find? </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly...easier to find and replace with a real install
t-taps and scotch-locks FTMFL

 

lol its reasons like that I DO NOT miss working in the car audio business.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the first pic, directly under the knee bolster, there's a red wire going down and to the left... Is that a t-tap with another t-tap attached directly behind it??

Also... That's a pretty blue screwdriver you've got there... </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, thats the best thing about it. I laughed when I saw that.

 

that is a very typical install from a mass merchant i would guess. good installs = time, time = money, the woman off the street isn't going to care if there are scotch locks or solder.

More business for you i suppose..

 

hell business, lol. I should have it finish by tommorow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


This is so messed up that when I tried to get the alarm brain out that the dash started smoking. To find out that someone was lazy with fuses and wrapped wire around them under the hood. I should of know this car was going to be bad news.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why step one is disconnecting the battery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenhtch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats why step one is disconnecting the battery </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you do a alarm with the battery disconected? The smoking was not from taking out the alarm. It was from bad splicing job from the previous owner For something that was not alarm related.

Car all fixed, happy customer, car well protected

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenhtch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats why step one is disconnecting the battery </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but what if you want to test a wire, you going to connect and dissconnect the battery every time you test a wire? Let's go by the book and make it as safe as possible. Say you are testing an ignition source 12v+ when key is on and 0 v or - to ground when key is off. First disconnect the + side of the battery and then connect your multimeter leads to the wire + side to the suspected wire and the common side to chassis ground. Read the meter with the key off should read 0v. Now turn the key to the on position, oh **** 0v!! Do I have the wrong wire? Do I not have a good ground connected to my meter? Do I have my + probe making a good connection to the wire? According to the book, when you test each wire or add/remove any probe you must disconnect the source. Anyone that works in this field on a daily basis knows when to disconnect the battery and when you don't have to. I have done many alarm, amp, stereo installs without ever removing the battery other than that of letting it go dead. There have been certain occasions, Jaguar in particular, that I had to remove the source to check a wire, only because it was a -12v system.