Orange_SIR1

Whats up ht,
i just got this alarm and i need help on installing this to my 96 civic hatch CX 5 speed
my plans are:
1 converting to oem power windows and locks from a 98 ex coupe, everything from floor harness, pass and dr. door harness, control lock module etc..
2 hook up remote start
3 Add ons - tilt sensor, audio sensor, back up batt and extra sirens
from what i have gathered for wiring:

Main Harness

h1/1 red const 12v - tap to a const 12v source
h1/2 black grnd - good chassis ground
h1/3 brown siren out - connect to my sirens with relay and fused
h1/4 white/brown park light isolation wire - will not connect
h1/5 white park light out - tap to my park lights
h1/6 orange gwa out - will not be connected if wiring remote start?

Door lock

1 blue out - tap to neg unlock
2 empty
3 green - tap to neg lock

Aux/shutdown/trigger harness, 24-pin connector

h2/1 pink/white ign/flex relay out - not needed?
h2/2 black/white neutral safety input - tap to e-brake?
h2/3 blue white 2nd stat/rear defog out - not needed?
h2/4 green black oem alarm disarm out - not avail
h2/5 red/white trunk release out - not needed
h2/6 green door trigger in - tap to door trigger on car

h2/7 black/yellow dome light supv out - connect to dome light with relay

h2/8 brown/black horn honk - tap to horn
h2/9 dark/blue status out - not needed
h2/10 pink ign out - not needed if hooking up remote start?

h2/11 white/black aux3 out - not needed
h2/12 violet + door trigger in - not connected
h2/13 white/violet aux1 out - not needed
h2/14 violet/black aux2 out - not needed
h2/15 orange/black aux4 out - not needed
h2/16 brown brake shutdown in - tap to brake wire switch above pedal

h2/17 grey hood pin - to hood pin
h2/18 violet yellow starter out - not connected if hooking up remote start?

h2/19 blue instant trigger in - connect to back up batt and the other sensor (diode isolated)

h2/20 grey/black diesel wait to start - not needed
h2/21 white/blue remote start/tt acvt in - not needed?
h2/22 orange acc out - not needed?
h2/23 violet/white tach in - tap to car's tach
h2/24 oem alarm out - not avail

remote start 10 pin heavy gauge connector

h3/1 pink ign in/out - tap to car's ign or const 12v
h3/2 red/white fused ign2/flex relay in - not connected
h3/3 orange acc out - tap car's acc
h3/4 violet start out - cut starter wire then connect this to starter side

h3/5 green starter in - key side of cut starter wire

h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v or ign
h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not connected
h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not connected
h3/9 red/black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v

are my connections correct?
the connections with the ? is the ones i am unsure of
i would like to have the remote start without having to mess up my clutch interlock switch, meaning if start my car with the key, i still would need to press on the clutch,

Any help would be appreciated

Orange_SIR1

Any one?

fcm

Will have to look at it closer, [at work now] but it looks good.

For CIS all you need is the H2/9 status output, connect to the output of the CIS, the CIS will work as normal but will be bypassed for remote start. 94

Orange_SIR1

Thank you for the reply fcm, do i have to put a relay for h2/9 to the CIS? bec i am not sure if it neg triggered if it is then i would just tap h2/9 to the neg of the CIS?
btw i edited my post so it would be a little bit clear.
Thank you

fcm

No relay needed, connect the H2/9 lead directly to the blue/black lead at the CIS.

H1/1 red will go to the back-up batt.

H1/3 brown will go directly to the siren, if you are adding extra sirens run them off a relay, and use the H1/3 brown only to trigger the relay, that way the back-up batt. has less of a load if it is running the system.

H1/5 white should also be used to trigger a relay so park lights do not flash if back-up batt. is running system, [again, less of a load for the small back-up batt.].

H2/23, violet/white, use tach test connector, or even better, an injector lead, any injector, lead that is NOT the same color on each injector.

H3/1 pink must go to cars ign. wire, black/yellow at ign. switch harness.

H3/3 orange, yellow at ign. switch harness.

H3/7 pink/white, to 2nd acc., white/black at ign. switch harness.

All the rest look good. 94

Orange_SIR1

Thank you so much fcm
oh yeah i forgot that h1/1 will be powered by the back up batt,
and also power my sirens.
i am also thinking where to tap for the tach signal.
for H3/ 1,3, and 7 can i tap these wires from somewhere else besides the ign switch harness on the steering column like going back to the under dash fusebox because i am re-wiring some of my dash harness, would that be ok?

fcm

Connections of any alarm/remote start leads can be made at any point of the cars wiring you want, in fact, if you connect the H3/4 and H3/5, [starter leads] after the cars starter relay, you do not need to connect H2/9, [status out] to the CIS. 94

Orange_SIR1

I see,

lastly, i am still confused about these connections:
H2/1, H2/18 and H2/22. do i need to connect these or not if i am hooking up the remote start?
i really appreciate you help fcm

fcm

No, yes and yes. 94

Orange_SIR1

could you clarify for me how to connect H2/18 and H2/22 then?
dont really have a clue, do i use a relay, how do i connect it, like a diagram maybe?
thank you for the help fcm

fcm

My mistake, you do not need H2/1, H2/18 or H2/22. 94

Orange_SIR1

got it, thank you so much fcm!

Orange_SIR1

Update to this thread and a question,
When i am adjusting my glass breakage sensor, if i set it a little bit more
Than 1/8 from less sensitive, it triggers an error it shows on the remote control sensor 2, btw i got the shock sensor and glass sensor connected together via the y-harness from the glass sensor to the sensor 1 port. but when i arm it silently it does not show this error even if i adjust the glass breakage sensor to full
How do i eliminate this error?
Anyone had the same prob?
Anyways I have a piezo site. Inside the cabin,
Any help would be appreciated

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

There no way around this without pactr17 to allow the sensor to have a delay arm. The glass sensor is picking up the 513t during arming.

Orange_SIR1

Thanks for the reply wrx, btw what is pactr17? Is it better to replace the glass sensor with a proximity or ultrasonic sensor?
Thank you

Orange_SIR1

Or should i re locate the piezo siren outside?

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

I would just live with the error chirp, the car is going to reset and cover the one anyway. Proxy are good at certaint times, I rarely use mine.

Orange_SIR1

ok so i relocated the piezo siren outside and it resolved the issue. now i am trying to hook up the rear hatch, i have hooked it up to the alarms door triger but everytime i open the rear hatch door the doe light opens, instead should i hook it up h2/19 - (trunk pin/ instant trigger input) instead? of course it will be diode isolated
thank you so much for all of your help

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

I would leave the trunk on the door triger and isolate it at the point on contact so you don't have the same icon on if thats what your talking about. I like to have my back up battery on its own trigger.

Orange_SIR1

ok i hookod up the trunk to the instant trigger together with the back up batt, everything works the way i wanted to, now having problems with my remote start, it cranks but engine would not start, i got my main relay kill hooked up like this:
#30 chassis ground
#87a to ground of main relay (status out is spliced in with this)
#85 gwa from alarm
#86 constant 12v
is this correct or did i miss something?
thank you very much for the help wrx

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

If your doing remote start. The gwa wire needs to interupted during remote start with a relay and if your using a back up battery. It too will need the same thing. So you will need ththree relays. One for the back up battery. And two to for the main relay kill or what ever circuit your trying to kill. There are two remote statues while remote started wires. Use them control the extra relays. On your diagram up top. I would use a true ignition so the relay is not constantly energized and draining your battery.

Orange_SIR1

ok i just tested my stats output and its not giving neg, i used the h2/3 2nd status and it now works!
now i dont get why the back up batt needs to be interrupted for remote start? it only has const 12v, ground, instant trigger and 12v out? i am confused?
i see now that i have to use true ign if not i may drain my batt,
thank you so mufh for the help!

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Cause the 520t will give a faint ground out during cranking and the instant trigger wire will set off the alatm. If you do not use a relay. You will only be able to remote start the car while its not armed. If started armed. The alarm will go off and not crank. And if in manual mode. You have to go thru resevation mode again

Orange_SIR1

ok, but now it works even though i did not cut it,
i guess my connection were good? hehe
now for my main relay kill
can i splice in to h3/1 for #86 because the brain and my main relay/kill are near each other?