Hi all,
question. i am planning a new system on my 96 Civic DX. I have gathered the items i need for the install next is the box design where input will be critical.
i have 3 10" 8 ohm MTX Thunder 6000 subwoofer's. i want loud and clean.. im leaning toward a ported box. should each speaker have its own chamber and seperate port? or all three share the same airspace and single port?

I have a kenwood KDC-MP632U
infinity reference conponent speakers 6.5 and tweeters
infinity reference 6x9

MTX thunder 204 4 channel amplifier
MTX thunder 1000D mono amp for subs

Dynamatted trunk, doors, and floor boards.

the DC power will be added last after building of the box.


Modified by mv1luv at 9:16 PM 1/9/2008

 

Each speaker should have its own chamber and separate port IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Each speaker should have its own chamber and separate port IMO </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Build a box thats 4 cu ft tuned to 36-40 hz and have a common chamber and a single port. ??Yes seperate chambers and ports are ideal if you have the space.
If you have a coupe I would build a sealed enclosure thats 2.5-2.75 cu ft thats braced well should do well in that car.

 

sealed with or without chambers? and may i ask your reasoning for ported/common chamber?

p.s. the car is a coupe.

 

whether you go sealed or ported, I would recommend individual chambers. That way, if for some reason, one blows, the others are still in an enclosure ideal for thier size

 

Stick with sealed, and common chamber, it will give you clean, tight accurate sub bass. 94

 

i have personally never had a non chambered box thats why im wanting to know the pro's and con's to chambered vs non chambered. i like the sound of a sealed box tight hard hitting bass. A friend of mine has 6 10" subs in his Tahoe and he used to be a Professional installer and compete in db drags for a very reputable audio shop here in town, he states a ported non chambered box with my 3 10" subs will give me the sound im looking for.


Modified by mv1luv at 1:10 AM 11/28/2007

 

The reason for separate cambers is because not all speakers are the same even thou they were made at the same time. But the diff is very minimum. ALso with a mono chamber you can not tell if one speaker stops working. So you have to allways make sure that they are. IF you look at the factory mtx enclosure for the subs that you are using its a mono chamber. Also it will be very easy to build. I would use the mono and port it thru the back deck

 

thankyou for the very insightful feedback. it was all very helpful.
thankyou i think im going towards the non chambered, single port box.

 

now as to what direction should i aim the speakers? and the ports would be optimal if firing up through rear or back into trunk or front into cab?

 

try each for yourself. do what you think sounds good

 

she may not be pretty but hey, a whole month later and .. i built myself a box for FOUR 10" subs with the perfect fit. this is the box not completely done, so please disregard the mess. It has a total of 4 cubic ft. 1 chamber separating each pair of subs to be wired into 2 four ohm loads. the subs are mtx thunder 6000 10" 8 ohm subs

 

What did you use to cut the holes?!?! A beaver!!!??? LOL, J/K man, 4 10's should make for some pretty damn good bass.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NismoGriff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What did you use to cut the holes?!?! A beaver!!!??? LOL, J/K man, 4 10's should make for some pretty damn good bass. </TD></TR></TABLE>ROFL, I would have guessed a hammer, re: broken chunks of MDF inside the box.
But as long as the box is airtight and you can get a proper seal on the speakers it should work.
A little, [maybe a lot] sanding and some box carpet to match the trunk/hatch and it will look slick.
I am a little concerned about the inside of the "notches" on each side of the box as they are in the outside speaker holes, how are you dealing with them? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am a little concerned about the inside of the "notches" on each side of the box as they are in the outside speaker holes, how are you dealing with them? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't even notice those because I ran to get my trapping equipment to catch the beaver Definately going to have to deal with that issue. Might be able to just taper them off near the mounting hole.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little, [maybe a lot] sanding and some box carpet to match the trunk/hatch and it will look slick.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

A suggestion from me on this would be to make a trim panel to make the box look flush in the trunk. You can use some cardboard to get a good template and seeing as how you seem to be fairly new at building stuff, I think the one dimensional panel would be much easier for you to carpet.

Get this box situated/secured in the trunk where you want it and then make the carboard template to sit flush on the face of the box and fit neatly around the trunks sidewalls, top and bottom. You can secure the panel to the box by cutting the woofer holes the same as the ones in the box and screwing through both the panel and the box at them same time when mounting the speakers. You could also go a little more custom and still be pretty easy by carpeting just the face of the box in one color and make the panel that I suggested, but cut out a design in it to frame the woofers, then carpet that panel in trunk matching carpet. Don't try to use something like 3/4" MDF when building the panel, you'll hate yourself. Go get a sheet of 1/4" hardoard/brownboard at Home Depot, it's pretty easy to workwith and won't add much weight to the overall install.

If you've never carpeted a box before and you try to tackle that box, I think your seems are going to be

Good luck!!

 

lol yeah it was the same beaver that ate my jigsaw.. so i did what i could with my favorite tools a drill and hammer. but the inside is braced and sealed solid. yeah this is my first actual box so.. its raw but with a little time and effort i hope the install turns out ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mv1luv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol yeah it was the same beaver that ate my jigsaw.. so i did what i could with my favorite tools a drill and hammer. but the inside is braced and sealed solid. yeah this is my first actual box so.. its raw but with a little time and effort i hope the install turns out ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You get an A for effort and it's not THAT bad anyway, I've seen much worse. My favorite being the guy that came in with the box that the woofer came packaged in wrapped in multiple layers of duct tape with the woofer just sitting in a cutout in the box OR the guy that used a plastic storage container with a hole cut in the lid You get the point

 

Thankyou .. ill take more pic's as i progress waiting on isolator, battery box, and 170 amp alternator.

 

Question is 170 amp alternatpr too much amperage. i dont want to catch on fire with that much juice going through stock wiring, etc. does anyone know anyone with an alternator that high?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mv1luv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question is 170 amp alternatpr too much amperage. i dont want to catch on fire with that much juice going through stock wiring, etc. does anyone know anyone with an alternator that high?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it is not, the output of the alt. is determined by the load, EG; your head light wiring is protected by 10A fuses, the head lights use less then 10A of current, just because you install a bigger alt. the head lights will not draw any more current, the draw stays the same, the current draw would only go up if you install "bigger" bulbs, and if they draw more then 10A, the fuse will blow, the fuse protecting any circuit is never bigger then the wire can handle, that's why it is so importent to never replace a fuse with a bigger one.

With that said, I would upgrade the charge line from the alt. to the batt. to an 8ga and definitely "beef up" the batt. to chassis and chassis to motor grounds, use 4ga. 94

 

Question, If the Fuse on the MTX 1000D is a 150AMP (circuit breaker) and the fuse on the MTX 204 is a 60 amp (2x30). what size alternator would you buy? the choice will determine what size isolator to buy also. keep in mind a 2nd battery IS going in the trunk. just want everything right, and safe.

 

Buy the biggest, [that will fit] alt. you can afford, it can't hurt.

The max draw of the two amps is going to be around 200A, however the average draw will be less then 50% of that, and 1/2 that under normal listening conditions.

As for isolators, do not get the diode type, get the solenoid type.

BTW, the second batt. is also another load for the alt. 94

 

Ok for the isolator what is the difference between the two you mention? what do you think of these i want it safe and reliable.

63.95 plus shipping

15.00 plus shipping

on ebay. any feedback is appreciated, just want to do it right the first time around and not have problems with it down the road.

 

The pix are not working, post the links.

This is what I recommend... http://www.redarc.com.au/smart-start.htm 94