Sub seized?
Ok, ive been having on and off problems with my sub for a few months... it would cut in and out... everytime i might hit a tiny bump... or take a turn... anything.. i know its not my amp shutting itself off... cuz i can tell when the amp is on.
Well about a month ago... my sub went completely dead... and after no avail of it coming back by itself... i decided to try and take a look at it.
I noticed my amp wasnt getting full power so i replaced the fuse. the red light on it turned solid red... instead of half red... but my sub still doesnt work... we tried everything, no shorts, no nothing. I then hooked up my speaker cables directly to the speaker other than going thru all that crap in the box. Still nothing.
I am out of things to try in my head... next thing i wanna do is try and find someone i know that has a working sub and see if it works on my setup. If not then i know its something wrong with my system. but thats not what im looking for on here. Since i dont know many others with subs, i was trying to find other ways to fix it or what to look for with a seized or blown sub. This is my first system so im still pretty new. Also there is no visual cracks or holes in my sub. any help is apreciated and TYIA
Well about a month ago... my sub went completely dead... and after no avail of it coming back by itself... i decided to try and take a look at it.
I noticed my amp wasnt getting full power so i replaced the fuse. the red light on it turned solid red... instead of half red... but my sub still doesnt work... we tried everything, no shorts, no nothing. I then hooked up my speaker cables directly to the speaker other than going thru all that crap in the box. Still nothing.
I am out of things to try in my head... next thing i wanna do is try and find someone i know that has a working sub and see if it works on my setup. If not then i know its something wrong with my system. but thats not what im looking for on here. Since i dont know many others with subs, i was trying to find other ways to fix it or what to look for with a seized or blown sub. This is my first system so im still pretty new. Also there is no visual cracks or holes in my sub. any help is apreciated and TYIA
get a 9 volt battery and hook it up to your sub...you should get a pop out of the sub if it's still good, if you don't hear anything it's blown, from what you said it sounds like the coil came off the sub.
check the wires that come from the middle of the sub to the wire terminals that are auctually on the sub make sure there not loose. You can shake it while its out of the box and if it sounds funny then its probably blown
ok, well i said that i removed all wires from the box to the speaker and directly plugged it to the speaker from the amp... so i can make sure no connection problems... also i said that the sub is making NO noise... NO NOISE AT All... i finally found a 9v battery... but its too late now... so ill try it after i get back from school tomorrow...
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hey dude,
what kind of sub is it, if you bought it from a big chain store you can always pull the good ol' buy and switch.
if not try and it dead time to fork over some cash to get it replaced
what kind of sub is it, if you bought it from a big chain store you can always pull the good ol' buy and switch.
if not try and it dead time to fork over some cash to get it replaced
ok. i found out it does work on the 9v battery. So ive come to a conclusion to figure out where the problem is instead of forking over big $$ for another 12" sub. I have a Sony Xplod 12" sub with a 325W MTX amp. The amp's light is solid and lights up to full. But yet the sub does not work. When i took off the box part of the wiring, i realized the right side is all melted... the actual metal must have gotten hot and melted it. Again, i am clueless what to do, and any help is appreciated.
Get a multi-meter and test the ohm's on the speaker it should be somewhere around 4ohm's.
This is the only way to test a sub the RIGHT way.
About the melted wires, if you are having problems like that I would strongly recommend having a professional do the work
This is the only way to test a sub the RIGHT way.
About the melted wires, if you are having problems like that I would strongly recommend having a professional do the work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OverCorrupt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok. i found out it does work on the 9v battery. So ive come to a conclusion to figure out where the problem is instead of forking over big $$ for another 12" sub. I have a Sony Xplod 12" sub with a 325W MTX amp. The amp's light is solid and lights up to full. But yet the sub does not work. When i took off the box part of the wiring, i realized the right side is all melted... the actual metal must have gotten hot and melted it. Again, i am clueless what to do, and any help is appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>If you got a "pop" out of the sub it does not mean the sub is good, it only means that if everything before the sub is good, [amp, wiring, RCAs and HU preamp output] you should get some sound out of the sub.
Just because the amp light is on does not mean the amp is on or working, on some amps the amp light is controlled totally by the amp control lead coming from the HU, [what I mean is as long as the amp is grounded and the control lead is hooked up, and the HU is on, the amp light will come on] the other thing is the amp can have a blown output/outputs and the amp light can still come on, or the amp is good but not getting a sig. from the HU, [HU or RCAs are bad] you can do a simple test, first make sure the amp has power and a good ground, wire up the sub to the amp, [it does not have to be in the box] turn the system on, [make sure you have sound out of the other speakers, then turn down the volume] unplug the RCAs from the amp, plug in another set, [any set , short, long, cheap or expen sive] hold the other end of the RCAs in you hand, [one at a time] then "short" out the center pin, [pos. signal] and the outside part, [ground/signal return] with your thumb, [touching it off and on] if the amp is ok you will hear something out of the speaker, [normaly a little pop and hum] as you touch and hold your thumb on the RCA shorting it, if you do not see the speaker move a little or hear anything, something in the amp has gone west, on the other hand, if you do see/hear something, replug the original RCAs back in and unplug them from the HU, [turn off the HU when you do this, and any time you are plugging or unplugging anythin on the system] repeat the "shorting" test with the original RCAs, if no sound, the RCAs are bad, if there is sound or movement try plugging the RCAs into another RCA pig tail/output on the HU, see if you get sound, [turn up the volume].
A common problem/symptom of a ground on the amp going bad is the amp will still try and get a ground, and the only ground left is the sig. ground in the RCAs and as they are nothing more then very thin tracer on a circuit board in the amp and the HU, [the ones in the HU almost always thinner/smaller] they can blow like a fuse, if this happened in your HU, you would get no sound out of the sub, but by moving the RCAs to another output, you will get sound, [if blown ground tracers on the output you were using is the problem]
94
Just because the amp light is on does not mean the amp is on or working, on some amps the amp light is controlled totally by the amp control lead coming from the HU, [what I mean is as long as the amp is grounded and the control lead is hooked up, and the HU is on, the amp light will come on] the other thing is the amp can have a blown output/outputs and the amp light can still come on, or the amp is good but not getting a sig. from the HU, [HU or RCAs are bad] you can do a simple test, first make sure the amp has power and a good ground, wire up the sub to the amp, [it does not have to be in the box] turn the system on, [make sure you have sound out of the other speakers, then turn down the volume] unplug the RCAs from the amp, plug in another set, [any set , short, long, cheap or expen sive] hold the other end of the RCAs in you hand, [one at a time] then "short" out the center pin, [pos. signal] and the outside part, [ground/signal return] with your thumb, [touching it off and on] if the amp is ok you will hear something out of the speaker, [normaly a little pop and hum] as you touch and hold your thumb on the RCA shorting it, if you do not see the speaker move a little or hear anything, something in the amp has gone west, on the other hand, if you do see/hear something, replug the original RCAs back in and unplug them from the HU, [turn off the HU when you do this, and any time you are plugging or unplugging anythin on the system] repeat the "shorting" test with the original RCAs, if no sound, the RCAs are bad, if there is sound or movement try plugging the RCAs into another RCA pig tail/output on the HU, see if you get sound, [turn up the volume].
A common problem/symptom of a ground on the amp going bad is the amp will still try and get a ground, and the only ground left is the sig. ground in the RCAs and as they are nothing more then very thin tracer on a circuit board in the amp and the HU, [the ones in the HU almost always thinner/smaller] they can blow like a fuse, if this happened in your HU, you would get no sound out of the sub, but by moving the RCAs to another output, you will get sound, [if blown ground tracers on the output you were using is the problem]
94
you dont need a sub to test the output of your amplifier. Hook up any speaker just keep the volumes low.
If you have a digital multimeter you could also hook it up to the speaker outputs on the amplifier. Set the meter on AC then turn the volume up you sould get approx 0-40Vac depending on how high you have the volume. You done need a speaker at all for this.
If you have a digital multimeter you could also hook it up to the speaker outputs on the amplifier. Set the meter on AC then turn the volume up you sould get approx 0-40Vac depending on how high you have the volume. You done need a speaker at all for this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vicn77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a 9 volt battery and hook it up to your sub...you should get a pop out of the sub if it's still good, if you don't hear anything it's blown, from what you said it sounds like the coil came off the sub.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and before hooking it up to the sub to test it, place it on your tounge to make sure the battery is still good.
and before hooking it up to the sub to test it, place it on your tounge to make sure the battery is still good.
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rufridn
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Feb 16, 2009 12:58 PM



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