so i have a PPI D2000/1 hooked up to 2 PPI DCX 12 inch 4 ohm subs. when ever i turn it up my lights dim quite a bit and if i push it to much the amp cuts out. what is my problem? my buddy has the same set up in his mx-3 and its way louder but it cuts out in his to but he can still go way louder. what are my options? how much difference would a capacitor make? if so how big of one do i need? 2 farad? could somethting else be wrong?

 

it cuts out???

that means your amp is going to protect...??
is it????


how did you wire it??? 1 ohm???
is it a dual 4ohm...or single coil (dont know none about the ppi)

usually all mono amp can handle 1 ohm....

im guessing your amp is going protect because, it cant handle your load...

if it is d4 ohms...you should be good...

parallel everything...and youll get 1ohm load
loading it to 4 ohms is kinda high....(if it is dual 4)


or...amp is gonna shut off too, if its not getting enough power.....do you have a stock power system??batt/cable/fuse??/

what do you have???


how big is your box? having a big *** box could be a reason too for you amp to shut off...

what exactly do you have???

 

How big is your power cable & where is the amp grounded?

 

i have 4 guage power wire and ground wire, it is grounded to a bolt to the frame in the back, i made sure it was a good ground and made sure there was a good metal to metal connecttion. what happens is tha amp seems tot blank out, like shuts off for a couple seconds(display led's and all) then comes back on.. it is wired to 1 ohm for sure, if not .5 ohm(might have the PPI PCC 122's which can be wireed at .5 ohm). my box is vented and has bout 3 cubic feet for each sub. is it not getting enough juice or what, how much difference would a cap make?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if not .5 ohm(might have the PPI PCC 122's which can be wireed at .5 ohm). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, considering your amp isn't 1/2 ohm stable, that may be your problem. Verify the subs are wired to 1 ohm.

Also, what kind of car is this in? Stock charging system? What kind of battery & have you had the battery checked?

 

probably wired at 1ohm...you cant get .5 ...
is the amp hot when it die???

try and load it to 4 ohms see if it does it again..

series the voice coils per sub.......then parallel the 2 subs, and youll get 4 ohm load...

 

According to PPI/DEI the DCX 124 is a DVC 1000W, [although I find that hard to believe] 4 ohm sub and recommended vented box is 2.15cuft gross... http://www.directechs.com/tech...s.pdf Sounds like one of the problems may be the box volume,"). my box is vented and has bout 3 cubic feet for each sub."
Also if they are 1000W subs you are way underpowered

What I want to know is what kind of fuse are you using on the 4ga power cable?
The symptoms you discribe could be the result of using an AGU glass type fuse and holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...P8FHI
or a poor connection, bad enough that under load the connection is broken compleatly, the poor connection can be on the power or the ground. 94

 

this is in my 2000 integra GSR, yea stock charging system, battery, etc. how am i underpowering them with a PPI D2000/1? yes i am using a AGU glass type fuse holder, how would i fix that? why is it hard to beleive the subs are DVC 1000W? the amp is warm, but not hot. i used to have an amp that you couldnt barly touch it got so hot. would a cap help me? how would battery condition be it?

 

How would battery condition be it?? Are you kidding me? Do you honestly not know that your amp is connected to the battery??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would battery condition be it?? Are you kidding me? Do you honestly not know that your amp is connected to the battery??
</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is not a complete moron. Battery condition can control voltage drops.

Typically an Alternator is slow to respond to transient current changes. When the alternator fails to supply the current then next in line is the cap. Then if the current still is to much for the alternator and the cap the battery is sourced.

If the Battery has a high ESR then you will have larger voltage drops. That's why its good to know the ESR or your battery. Companies like Stinger will give you the measured ESR. While it is unlikely his battery it is entirely possible.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oilguzzler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is in my 2000 integra GSR, yea stock charging system, battery, etc. how am i underpowering them with a PPI D2000/1? yes i am using a AGU glass type fuse holder, how would i fix that? why is it hard to beleive the subs are DVC 1000W? the amp is warm, but not hot. i used to have an amp that you couldnt barly touch it got so hot. would a cap help me? how would battery condition be it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 2000 GSR can handle a 1000w system I had one, your right on the edge though. With correct power wire 2 guage, 2Farad cap it will work fine.

2000w is to much for that alternator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oilguzzler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what happens is tha amp seems tot blank out, like shuts off for a couple seconds(display led's and all) then comes back on.. it is wired to 1 ohm for sure, if not .5 ohm(might have the PPI PCC 122's which can be wireed at .5 ohm). my box is vented and has bout 3 cubic feet for each sub. is it not getting enough juice or what, how much difference would a cap make?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds as though you have the speakers wired into a load that is to low for that amplifier. Try putting the speakers in series.

 

so you think its basically just to big? would i be able to get an aftermarket alternator or rebuild my stock one up so it can handle it? and can a cap make that much of a difference? what are farads anyway? yes i know the amp is wired to the battery, i wired the system myself with some other ppl, i know the basics and just the battery is in good condition, guess ill check it though.

 

2000/14.4= 138amps

I dont believe that alternator is capable of that much current. That's not even counting the current required to run the car.

Your amp will probably spend maybe 5% of its time in this current range if your amp can even really put out 2000w.

A cap is not going to help this problem.

I think your problem is you have your speakers wired wrong.

 

so what can i do with my alternator? what are my options? should i wire them at 2 or 4ohm?

 

you dont have to chang ethe alternator...

how about getting a different batt???

but...try and loading it at 4 ohms...and see what happen....

 

it wont be as loud then will it? i am gonna get a new battery soon and see what that does. would it be worth investing in a cap? or do they do much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oilguzzler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is in my 2000 integra GSR, yea stock charging system, battery, etc. how am i underpowering them with a PPI D2000/1? yes i am using a AGU glass type fuse holder, how would i fix that? why is it hard to beleive the subs are DVC 1000W? the amp is warm, but not hot. i used to have an amp that you couldnt barly touch it got so hot. would a cap help me? how would battery condition be it?</TD></TR></TABLE>First I would always suspect specs when all sizes of the the sub are 1000W continuous and at the same time 1000W peak power, but I will not argue the point, I based my point of your amp being underpowered by the fact you have two 1000W DVC 4 ohms subs driven by an amp that is rated at 2000W max, meaning it's RMS power would be less then the 2000W RMS you need to properly drive the two 1000W continuous subs.

As for the fuse and holder AGU glass fuses are crap as is that type of fuse holder, replace them with an ANL fuse and holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...PWFHI install a 150A fuse... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...50WFI

Solder all your power and ground terminals to the 4ga cable, use the proper ring terminal, [stud size to fit bolts/studs]

Install a 1-2 farad cap, as close to amp as possible ground cap and amp to same spot, as close to amp as possible, seat and seat belt bolts work very well or any bolt/stud that makes contact with the cars floor pan.
Add a 4ga ground from batt. to chassis, shock tower studs work well.

Once all is installed, take car to a batt./alt. shop and have them do a load check on the charging system, and check the condition of the batt., or if the batt. is more then 5 years old, replace it.

There is no way in hell your alt. can make enough power to power that amp, if driven to it's limit, a better batt. and a cap will help, but only a bigger alt. is going to be able to make more power.

With that said, and as has been mentioned already, your not going to be driving the amp at it's limit very often and even then it will only be sometimes, music is dynamic.

If your charging system is working properly, your batt. is good, you do the above, your subs will sound better, assuming box is proper size and tuned properly] the amp will only shut down if you over-drive it. 94

 

Upgrade three wires: battery to chassis, alternator + to battery +, and engine block to chassis. lights dim because the alternator can't keep up with your eletrical demands so your electrical system drops to the battery's voltage so the battery can help with the demands. adding a cap would further strain the alternator.

 

"adding a cap would further strain the alternator." It is another load for the alt. but hardly a "strain, in fact it will lessen the load on the alt., or spread it out, the cap(s) will supply the current to the amp, during high demand, and it will do it better and faster then the batt. and alt., [at the other end of the car] can do it.
As has been stated peak demand for power makes up only a small percentage of the amps power consumption, at normal listening levels it will never reach peak demand and batt. and alt. can "keep up", but when turned up, peak demand is reached, or demand above what the batt. and alt. can supply, while also supplying current for the rest of the cars needs, when that happens, [not enough current] lights dim, but amp is also effected by the lack of current, an easy fix, although it is only a band-aid, [ a very good band-aid] is to add a cap close to the amp.
The above assumes wiring has all been done properly and batt. to chassis ground has been beefed up by amp ground gauge size.

If your not upgrading the alt. what's the point of upgrading the alt. to batt., the stock lead will easily handle what the alt. is capable of producing, same goes for the chassis/batt. to motor ground, unless your upgrading the alt. what will upgrading that ground lead do? 94

 

it will reinforce the chassis as the main ground for the charging system, and upgrading all wires will enable better current flow with less resistance. there is no doubt that a capacitor has its uses, but in his situation i dont think it would help. upgrade the wires, see how the voltage drops are compared to before, then battery, then alternator.

 

thanks for all the help guys. im gonna replace the battery for sure, what kinda specs should i go by for that? and im taking my altenator in and get it checked out and maybe upgrade it. how big of a cap should i go? what are farads and how big of a difference is there between 1-2 farad?

 

o and would it be worth it to go to an even higher farad cap? say like 3-5? my buddy can get me a good deal so just wondering if itll make much of a difference.

 

1 farad for every 500W rms is enough, going bigger will not help much, and the extra load on the alt. is not worth it.
1 farad is 1,000,000 micro farads... "Farad - The basic unit of capacitance. A capacitor has a value of one farad when it can store one coulomb of charge with one volt across it." from 12volt.com. 94

PS, upgrading alt.

 

ok

 

k awesome, ill let you guys know what happens. cause i know this system should pound like crazy, deifantly morr then my old ppi d500/1 and 2 ppi pc 122's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oilguzzler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k awesome, ill let you guys know what happens. cause i know this system should pound like crazy, deifantly morr then my old ppi d500/1 and 2 ppi pc 122's</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would go with a 3 Farad cap for 2000w. Running 3 singles is usually better the running one cap. Reason being the ESR of the caps will go down when put in parallel. Look for good brands like stinger. This will prevent your lights from flickering.

My first upgrade in this setup would be the alternator. You do not have enough current to power a 2000w system. Buying a bigger battery will do nothing.

1. upgrade all the wires including the charge wire comming from the alternator.
2. upgrade the alternator.
3. buy a cap.
4. buy low esr battery.

That would be my choice.