http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp#psk

anybody made one of these starter kills? i remember when teken used to be here, he talked about a passive starter kill design with 2 relays and a diode. nto sure if it was the same one as this.

 

I was going to make one of these for my fuel pump. I found plans on that site and thought it would be a nice bypass. I want to setup the additional output on my codealarm to control a relay, so the fuel pump would not run, unless the alarm had been disarmed. That way if the alarm is disabled, the car goes no where I will setup a bypass for this in this fashion with a hidden momentary switch so I would not be stranded.

 

yeap, it's just a latching relay setup. Would work fine.

 

thanks for the help guys.

what size wires should i use to wire the relays together? 16 gauge ok?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was going to make one of these for my fuel pump. I found plans on that site and thought it would be a nice bypass. I want to setup the additional output on my codealarm to control a relay, so the fuel pump would not run, unless the alarm had been disarmed. That way if the alarm is disabled, the car goes no where I will setup a bypass for this in this fashion with a hidden momentary switch so I would not be stranded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are really interested send me an IM and I can work with you to make one that only requires one relay. Somewhat of a "smart" ignition kill. You could have multiple inputs so you could use devices inside the car instead of a hidden switch. You can make it as complex as you like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are really interested send me an IM and I can work with you to make one that only requires one relay. Somewhat of a "smart" ignition kill. You could have multiple inputs so you could use devices inside the car instead of a hidden switch. You can make it as complex as you like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

with one relay? I'm skeptical. How do you make it "momentary to constant" AND passive arming? One or the other can be done, but I am unsure how to do both. Plus you will only be able do disable one item.

I have madea a very trick kill switch system.

I am not finished documenting the final unit, but testing of the configuration is complete for my setup, and everything works perfect.

Required to start car:
1) [One or Two] momentary grounds
2) IGN ON +12V

Features:
a) multiple outputs (2 items to kill)
b) Passive arming (if car is not started within an 11 second "startup window" after activating a momentary switch, then the unit is armed again)
c) Unit is armed automatically when car is shut down.
d) Valet switch
e) Yellow LED indicating valet mode active, when car is started
f) Green LED indicating 11 second "startup window"

I make a point to "do it right the first time", and Have taken many tips from Teken to heart. When I finish the documentation, I'll post a schematic and pictures ("how-to") of the unit. As for the installation details and where to get your momentary switches, that's up to each individual. . .

- wotteg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with one relay? I'm skeptical. How do you make it "momentary to constant" AND passive arming?</TD></TR></TABLE>
To easy. This took me 5 minutes you can make this as complicated as you like. My finished circuit would need only one relay to kill the ignition and I could have as many inputs as I wanted. With an eprom my circuit could be 50 times more complex and about 1/50 the size if you were to do the same functions with relays. I would also only need a few milli amps of current compared to the current draw of all the different relays. There are many ways to accomplish any single function.





Modified by nsxxtreme at 8:59 AM 10/6/2003


Modified by nsxxtreme at 9:01 AM 10/6/2003

 

I wanna see the pics

 

I'll assume that your images show the "logic" controlled by an EPROM.
With "low voltage" (9V) mini relays you would have a very compact unit.

I think the 12v 30A Bosch Relays use 100mA, and the 9V 10A "mini" relays use closer to 40mA - 50mA.

I wonder where I could find some Bosch 9V relays. . . Anyone know?

 

No you can use any relay you want the op-amp and the end amplifies the voltage back up to 12V for use with the relay. If the images continue not to show I may host them myself later today. I didn't use an eprom just basic digital circuits you can buy anywhere. The eprom statement was just to show you that you have endless possibilities with digital logic.

 

FOr this project, I created a timer using an IC555, 100microFarhad Capacitor, 2 100k Ohm resistors, two 2.2k Ohm resistors, a voltage regulator, and a diode.

That's about the extent of my IC experience.

So wich ICs are you using to create logic gates? I'm just curious.

 

you can use just NAND gates or a NAND latch and one NAND gate. If it where me I would just buy an IC with NAND gates and make the latch out of the NAND gates. The above design was just a quick simple design. If I implemented more functions I would probably chose different logic.

 

that's what I always end up doing

 

Adding that to the fuel pump is a good extra layer to add on your security, but it shouldn't be your only one, it's a very cheap way to help keep you car there a few mins more, fucken thives need to die

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Adding that to the fuel pump is a good extra layer to add on your security, but it shouldn't be your only one</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, Teken (Reincarnated as EVIL Teken) the grand-daddy of the Audio-Security forum always touted a "Layered" security approach as the best way to go.

GSRaCeRbOI has also been a supporter of this method of protection.

Layers can be everything: parking in a locked garage, "stealth" installing an alarm, kill switches, bolting-down valuables (amps etc.), removing electric door switches that can be activated with a hanger, hood locks, keeping a low profile, protecting any "security" wiring by blending it in, backup-batteries, pin-switches, decoy elements (sirens, alarm brains, anti-slim-jim bars in door panels, parking in well-lit areas, parallel parking, VIN etching, pager alarms, etc.

Anything you add to make it MORE difficult to tow/steal a car, that layer of protection adds to the commitment level a theif must resolve to. Make them question their own motivation; make them realize they are not stealing candy from a baby.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
removing electric door switches that can be activated with a hanger
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never understood why anyone would want to do this. You dont need a coat hanger you can use your arm. And if you can reach the electric door lock then more then likely you would also be able to reach the manual one as well.

I don't see anything wrong with having a good security system. But spending tons of cash on is crazy IMO. If you know how to do things yourself then you can save yourself a lot of money. If not then IMO the added security isn't worth the extra cost. IMO insurance is your best bet. I think things change when you get older. When your young you spend a lot of time in your car. It becomes your second home. When your older you spend more time and money in other places.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When your older you spend more time and money in other places.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, this is part of why I am spending the time/money on the car now. So that she is safe/preserved later when my septic tank is overflowing, my daughter has the flu, and my wife wants to plan a trip to Hawaii.

 

why is the relay on the right needed? couldn't i just connect the end of the diode to #85 of the left relay?

 

This dual relay configuration provides momentary - to - constant functionality.
So you can just poke a pushbutton, reed switch, or other momentary switch; and not have to use a latching switch.

 

I guess seeing that diagram once again has helped. I have finally figured out how it really works.

I can stop pretending to be an electron now