Alright so I'm not a noob, but I'm a noob to the audio stuff. My neighbor just sold me two brand new Alpine Type R's they're 10's and the SWR 1041D model. I got them for $180 which I think is a pretty good price. I need to know what kind of amp I should get to maximize the potential of these babies. I'm also interested in purchasing some MB Quart components from ikesound.com the price seems pretty good at $210 and FREE shipping. I also would like to know what kind of amp you guys recommend for these components.

So I'm thinking to myself that I'm going to get a pretty good system for a decent price, but then my friend tells me that I should get some good MONSTER wiring. I was thinking about just using lightening audio or something, but he claims that the monster cables rock. Do you guys think it's worth the extra money?

Oh yeah, all of this stuff is going inside an ITR. Do you think I"m going to have a problem with rattling? I'm also curious how hard it's going to be to install all of this stuff (my neighbor does car audio). Is there anything we need to be careful of or aware of? Thanks.

 

Welcome to the world of car audio (just wait until the bug bites).

1. For your subs, you will need an amp that makes max power at 1 or 4 ohms (you'll want about 600w). Give me a price and I'll make some recommendations.

2. Have you ever heard MB Quarts? IMO they are overrated. The tweeter is very harsh. for the money I would find a set of JL Xr's on ebay or something. Ikesound is Scala1 on ebay fyi.

3. Monster cable is a waste. Wire is wire. There is no need to spend $$$$$ on wiring. Walmart sells quality 4ga wiring kits for $30. If you need something bigger search on ebay for the Audiopiope 0 awg kit ~$65 shipped.

4. Every car will have rattles.

 

For an Amp I was thinking of getting one of these http://www.ikesound.com/1024.htm

But for an extra $80 I can get the bigger one but was wondering if it would even do anything for me.

What kind of amp would you recommend for the components? I've heard the MB Quarts and agree that they are sharp but still like them a lot.

 

Your link doesn't work.
How much do you want to spend for both amps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welcome to the world of car audio (just wait until the bug bites).

1. For your subs, you will need an amp that makes max power at 1 or 4 ohms (you'll want about 600w). Give me a price and I'll make some recommendations.

2. Have you ever heard MB Quarts? IMO they are overrated. The tweeter is very harsh. for the money I would find a set of JL Xr's on ebay or something. Ikesound is Scala1 on ebay fyi.

3. Monster cable is a waste. Wire is wire. There is no need to spend $$$$$ on wiring. Walmart sells quality 4ga wiring kits for $30. If you need something bigger search on ebay for the Audiopiope 0 awg kit ~$65 shipped.

4. Every car will have rattles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

\i have mb quarts in my car and they sound great, i didnt pay for them though, and if given the choice i would buy XR's also, but if you don't plan on buying a huge *** amp to push xr's i would get vr's, IMO they sound cleaner, and why would he need a 1 ohm power rating? 2 or 4 ohms, if you run them at 2, mos def go with Rockford, they put out the most power at 2 ohms, if you run 4 ohms, which isnt cool with Dual voice coil subs, then JL, but i'd run them at 2 ohms, and get a rockford amp, and yes every car does rattle, i dynomatted the **** out of my lude and the only time i dont hear rattling is when i turn my sub off, lol

 

$300 or so

 

If I am correct, the subs are 4 ohms DVC. They can be wired into a 1 or 4 ohm load. You cannot wire two of these into a two ohm load (Technically you can, but it's not recommended).

Why isn't it good to run DVC subs at 4 ohms? This makes no sense.

Edit: Rockford amps tend to run HOT.

 

Edit: Rockford amps tend to run HOT.

If you want to talk about running hot there was a brand of amps they used to carry at Best Buy (Panasonic mabye?) with a plastic cover over all the controls and EVERY display model they had up had holes where the plastic had been melted due to the amp running so hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I am correct, the subs are 4 ohms DVC. They can be wired into a 1 or 4 ohm load. You cannot wire two of these into a two ohm load (Technically you can, but it's not recommended).

Why isn't it good to run DVC subs at 4 ohms? This makes no sense.

Edit: Rockford amps tend to run HOT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could run them at 2ohms stereo safely right?

 

Yes, but you will need a dual chamber box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, but you will need a dual chamber box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't necessarily need a dual chamber box. There is also no possible way to get a 2 ohm load from 2-4ohm DVC subs. You can get 16ohms, 4ohms, 2.67ohms, and 1 ohm depending on how you wire them. Unless you have a class-d amp don't go for a 1ohm load you'll overheat your amp so fast. Your subs should come with instruction on how to get different levels of resistence. Hope this could help.