No power...
After a long time having my prelude without any sound, I finally decided to put my speakers/amp/headunit from my old accord in it. Well everything worked fine for a couple of days, I got a new cd, played it, and the power to the speakers randomly cut out. After looking for the problem for a couple of days and not finding anything, it started working again. Later that day it did the same thing, and after another 3 or so more days, it's started working again. I can't understand what the problem was... the headunit had power and everything, but I guess there was no power going to the amp... if anyone has any ideas why this happened, please help me out.
Modified by Mad Hatter at 12:29 AM 2/15/2006
Modified by Mad Hatter at 12:29 AM 2/15/2006
thanks for the reply... it's a sony cdx-ca810x with a power acoustik amp. it's hasn't had any problems with any other cds and it never had any problems when it was in my accord.
bump.. power just cut off again today. i really don't wanna take this to cartoys and pay them an arm and a leg, so if anyone knows what it could be, please help me out. i checked the power and remote wires and there's no problem there.
So I understand, it only happens with one CD....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Hatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I got a new cd, played it, and the power to the speakers randomly cut out. </TD></TR></TABLE> not any others......<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Hatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it's hasn't had any problems with any other cds</TD></TR></TABLE> your talking about CDs not CD players, correct?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Hatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I got a new cd, played it, and the power to the speakers randomly cut out. </TD></TR></TABLE> not any others......<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Hatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it's hasn't had any problems with any other cds</TD></TR></TABLE> your talking about CDs not CD players, correct?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So I understand, it only happens with one CD....
not any others...... your talking about CDs not CD players, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the response
yeah... i thought it was just that one cd at first, but it cut out when i was listening to a dif. one, so i'm pretty sure that's not the case.
i'll check to see if the remote wire is pinched, but i'm pretty sure it isn't... and would that cause the amp to shut off randomly for days at a time?
not any others...... your talking about CDs not CD players, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks for the response
yeah... i thought it was just that one cd at first, but it cut out when i was listening to a dif. one, so i'm pretty sure that's not the case.
i'll check to see if the remote wire is pinched, but i'm pretty sure it isn't... and would that cause the amp to shut off randomly for days at a time?
If the HU stays on, keeps working, but you have no sound, and all the speakers are run by an off board amp, [HU not powering any speakers] then yes, problems with the amp control lead, [remote wire] can and will shut the amp down, what that problem is and how bad it is will determine how long the amp is "off" if it is the amp control lead it is more likely a poor connection, let me ask you this, is it one length of wire from the HU to the amp, or is it more then one with connections along the way?
There are other things that will shut the amp down, ground for one, check it a good amp ground is one that is as short as possible, that has the terminals soldered to it, grounded to the floor pan of the car, all dirt and paint removed so terminal makes contact with the bare metal of the floor pan and of coarse that the connections on both ends are tight.
The same goes for the power, terminals soldered at each end, good solid connection at the amp and at the batt.
That leaves the fuse and the fuse-holder and the connections to the fuse holder, IMO the only good fuse for an amps power lead is a wafer fuse, [ANL] and the best fuse holder is the simple 2 studs, [machine bolts] one at each end of a plastic/plexiglass plate that the fuse fits between and the ring terminals on the power wire fit on and a nut on each stud is used to hold it all together.
ANL fuse... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...00WFI
ANL fuse holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...PWFHI
If you have an AGU fuse... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...60F4I
and holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...60F4I
check the fuse for signs of heat, look into the fuse to where the fuse filament is soldered to the inside of the end caps, a common problem with that kind of fuse is it can get hot enough for the solder, that holds the filament, to melt, so there is no longer a proper connection, the fuse can look OK, you can even test it and it will show continuity, in fact you can test for voltage at the amp and it will show 12V but as soon as you put a load on it "poof" gone, to be sure that it is not the fuse, if you have the AGU fuse, replace it.
Also closely check the connections of the power cable to the fuse holder.
Sorry all I can thing of right now, check the above and let me know.
94
There are other things that will shut the amp down, ground for one, check it a good amp ground is one that is as short as possible, that has the terminals soldered to it, grounded to the floor pan of the car, all dirt and paint removed so terminal makes contact with the bare metal of the floor pan and of coarse that the connections on both ends are tight.
The same goes for the power, terminals soldered at each end, good solid connection at the amp and at the batt.
That leaves the fuse and the fuse-holder and the connections to the fuse holder, IMO the only good fuse for an amps power lead is a wafer fuse, [ANL] and the best fuse holder is the simple 2 studs, [machine bolts] one at each end of a plastic/plexiglass plate that the fuse fits between and the ring terminals on the power wire fit on and a nut on each stud is used to hold it all together.
ANL fuse... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...00WFI
ANL fuse holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...PWFHI
If you have an AGU fuse... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...60F4I
and holder... http://www.scosche.com/efx.asp...60F4I
check the fuse for signs of heat, look into the fuse to where the fuse filament is soldered to the inside of the end caps, a common problem with that kind of fuse is it can get hot enough for the solder, that holds the filament, to melt, so there is no longer a proper connection, the fuse can look OK, you can even test it and it will show continuity, in fact you can test for voltage at the amp and it will show 12V but as soon as you put a load on it "poof" gone, to be sure that it is not the fuse, if you have the AGU fuse, replace it.
Also closely check the connections of the power cable to the fuse holder.
Sorry all I can thing of right now, check the above and let me know.
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