I finally finished my system. It sounds sickk. I love it, I can actually hear my music now.

Eclipse cd8053 face
JL Audio 300/4 class AB amp
Alpine Type X 6.5" components -Front
Alpine Type R 6.5" Components -Rear
JL Audio 500/1 class D amp
JL 12w3v2 in a JL spec sealed box
Optima Red Top

One problem, ****** annoying hissing, high pitched. Only when the car is running, as soon as you turn it off, it's crystal clear. Will noise filters help? I didn't run the power wire anywhere near the RCA's. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally finished my system. It sounds sickk. I love it, I can actually hear my music now.

Eclipse cd8053 face
JL Audio 300/4 class AB amp
Alpine Type X 6.5" components -Front
Alpine Type R 6.5" Components -Rear
JL Audio 500/1 class D amp
JL 12w3v2 in a JL spec sealed box
Optima Red Top

One problem, ****** annoying hissing, high pitched. Only when the car is running, as soon as you turn it off, it's crystal clear. Will noise filters help? I didn't run the power wire anywhere near the RCA's. . </TD></TR></TABLE>If noise is a high pitched whine that changes pitch when you rev the motor a little and gets louder when you add more load, [turn on lights, rear window defog, highbeams] its comeing from the alt. and is almost always caused by a ground loop, and there are ground loop isolaters, that said, its better to fix the problem then put a bandaid on it.
Check all your grounds, make sure they are good, are both the amps grounded to the same place, [as close to the amps as possable, to the floorpan of the car] Did you beef up the grounds under the hood? Have you tried a ground from the HU chassis to the "floorpan"? What kind of RCAs and how did you run them? 94

 

it could be a poor ground on the headunit as well - don't use the ground wire in the harness, attach it to bare metal under the dash - something that's attached to teh frame/floor pan on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally finished my system. It sounds sickk. I love it, I can actually hear my music now.

Eclipse cd8053 face
JL Audio 300/4 class AB amp
Alpine Type X 6.5" components -Front
Alpine Type R 6.5" Components -Rear
JL Audio 500/1 class D amp
JL 12w3v2 in a JL spec sealed box
Optima Red Top

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome Choice on products used!!!

As for the noise, JL amps and Eclipse (esp the 8volt ones) are notorious for alt whine on an insuffient ground wire. I'd check the radio ground. Like stated before, ground to direct metal instead of the harness ground. Will probly solve you problem.

 

Ughh. . I have to pull the face out again? lol Alright, I'll check that.
And yes, it does increase as the rev goes higher (that's the high pitched one) but there is another high pitched nosie that I don't think it a ground loop. . It stays constant. It is only audible at low volume, and goes away as soon as you turn it up (either that, or the music over-power's it.)

Yes the grounds are as close to the amps as possible. I'll take a couple pics for you guys now. . .

 

Here are the pics:

I got the TypeX tweeters to fit inside the stock location, and the crossovers are mounted behind the door. I didn't have my camera when I installed the stuff, so none of those shots. .

Rear Tweeters:

Operating shots:

That's the 300/4, kinda hard to see:

My pretty *** trunk:

The ground: Both to the same place: Kept em as short as possible. .

I know it's messy, but I really don't care, it's not a show car:


So I need to try Re-Grounding the face, and possibly the engine, right?

 

wow, just wow......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, just wow......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that!

Why do you have a second battery? Did you get a larger alternator? A second battery is just an additional load on the alternator.

Your choice of ground points is less then desirable. Also all grounds should be connected to the same location. Especially with high current wires. Its very easy to produce different potentials. Everyone knows the V=I*R equation right? When you have high current it doesn't take much resistance to produce a potential difference.

 

now that I have caught my breath.....let's take a look at this....


1. I can only assume the blue wire leads to the alternator/other battery?
2. I see no fuses on any power wires near that battery
3. Does the ground on the battery actually go to the bolt that holds the battery down?
4. I'm doubting that connection point for your amp grounds is down to bare metal
5. The floor pan is a better connection point then the back bumper area
6. Did I say wow yet?
7. Amplifiers should never be mounted directly to the metal on the car
8. Is that sub box bolted down?
9. What's with the red wire hanging down by the gas pedal?

I don't care if this is not a show car, but it should at least be safe. Right now you have what is called a fire hazard I'm almost afraid to ask what's going on under the hood for wiring....

 

Todays amplifiers should actually have isolated gounds. Which means the the amplifiers reference zero is not the same as the cars reference zero. This is why they tell you not to ground the - terminal on the output. Very old amplifiers used to do this. The amplifier chassis should be comletely isolated. Some amplifiers actually tie the amplifier chassis tothe cars ground. DEI is one that I can think of right away that does this. So it should not matter if the amplifier is touching bare metal.

I'm just curious though why would you use different grounds? You have an emty terminal on that battery. Why ground it to the flimsy sheet metal of the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why do you have a second battery? Did you get a larger alternator? A second battery is just an additional load on the alternator.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have one battery. The optima does not fit in the front.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. I can only assume the blue wire leads to the alternator/other battery?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To a circut breaker in the front, which does to where the orignal + battery post was.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. I see no fuses on any power wires near that battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the fuse holders, Just didn't get time to put em in yet.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Does the ground on the battery actually go to the bolt that holds the battery down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. Through the floorpan. I had the ground on another point and it still made the same noise.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. I'm doubting that connection point for your amp grounds is down to bare metal</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5. The floor pan is a better connection point then the back bumper area</TD></TR></TABLE>
For what, the ground or the amps?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7. Amplifiers should never be mounted directly to the metal on the car</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not? There are little plastic insulators anyway, so it's not "on" the metal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8. Is that sub box bolted down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not yet, I have to move the battery back so it lies flat, the I will bolt it down.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">9. What's with the red wire hanging down by the gas pedal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothin to do with the audio. It's the lead for the lighting of the gauges. And it's no where near the gas pedal, you just can't see the depth from the picture.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't care if this is not a show car, but it should at least be safe. Right now you have what is called a fire hazard I'm almost afraid to ask what's going on under the hood for wiring....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm.. The wiring is all stock under the hood. Except for the injectors and the MSD, and HID's. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm just curious though why would you use different grounds? You have an emty terminal on that battery. Why ground it to the flimsy sheet metal of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already did, and the aduio store I bought the sub amp from told me to move it. .

 

Lol find a new audio store. The reason was? Did you upgrade the engine to chassis ground? If not it needs to be. When you have long runs the wire size need to go up.

You have a serious ground issue which is where your noice is coming from. High current grounds should go to the same point.

Thebolt you are using is not a good ground. When I had an Integra I used one of the bolts that holds the bumper on. Just remove all the paint first.

 

wires everywhere!

The 12w3v2 is 300rms, the sub can actually handle that 500/1 pushing it?

Damn my box for my w6v2 looks half the size for your single w3v2 , also 12"..

You have components in front and components in rear? Lots and Lots of treble

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are the pics:


</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that box made out of particle board?

 

Just guessing.. but im gonna say the hissing is because the amps and such are connected to the body, metal... etc... maybe a baffle of wood under them, or something like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wires everywhere!

The 12w3v2 is 300rms, the sub can actually handle that 500/1 pushing it?

Damn my box for my w6v2 looks half the size for your single w3v2 , also 12"..

You have components in front and components in rear? Lots and Lots of treble</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the gain and boost down real low. I might upgrade to a 12w6 soon. .
And the box is made to JL spec. .
And yea, I didn't want a lot of bass, I wanted a little kick, but mostly clean, crisp, clear sound. That's what I got. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol find a new audio store. The reason was? Did you upgrade the engine to chassis ground? If not it needs to be. When you have long runs the wire size need to go up.

You have a serious ground issue which is where your noice is coming from. High current grounds should go to the same point.

Thebolt you are using is not a good ground. When I had an Integra I used one of the bolts that holds the bumper on. Just remove all the paint first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't upgrade any grounds in the engine bay. Which ones should I upgrade?

Which one, the battery one, or the one for the amps? Where Should I move them to? And should I wire the amps back to the battery - post?
Sorry I'm such a newbie with audio ****, I was always (and still am) into engine performance. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, just wow......</TD></TR></TABLE>I would put it another way...........BARF Im sorry, but that install could be a poster for GETTO, I mean if it was all crap, bargen basement stuff, who would care, but that's some good stuff, and to have spent the $$$ for the system, and then to install it that way its no wonder you have noies, that said, noies right now is probably the least of your problems, there is no way that it sounds any way near as good as it can. My advice would be pull it all out and try again , and if you have someone helping you, tell him not to quit his day job, and if his day job is installing car audio, he needs to find himself another one, cause hes not cutting it as an installer, and one more thing, the mounting kit is upside down 94

 

How did you get your deck to stay in? Did you bolt it in or get a kit to pull tha tabs up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would put it another way...........BARF Im sorry, but that install could be a poster for GETTO, I mean if it was all crap, bargen basement stuff, who would care, but that's some good stuff, and to have spent the $$$ for the system, and then to install it that way its no wonder you have noies, that said, noies right now is probably the least of your problems, there is no way that it sounds any way near as good as it can. My advice would be pull it all out and try again , and if you have someone helping you, tell him not to quit his day job, and if his day job is installing car audio, he needs to find himself another one, cause hes not cutting it as an installer, and one more thing, the mounting kit is upside down 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all. . I don't care how it looks AT ALL.

Why would re-installing it make it sound better? I didn't run any power wires near the RCA's. I soldered all the connections. I secured all the speaker wire and the crossovers. Give me some proof of how doing it over will fix it, then I may consider it.

You guys see a messy install and jump all over it.

What is noies? Don't spend so much time bashing me when you could be learning english.

The NOISE is obviously from a ground loop, and I am working on figuring that out.

There is no mounting kit. I put the face on the bottom on purpose. That is the OEM tray above the face

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just guessing.. but im gonna say the hissing is because the amps and such are connected to the body, metal... etc... maybe a baffle of wood under them, or something like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm confused... you seem to be saying amp to chassis causes the noise, but I thought someone above said that the noise is because he isn't connected directly to the chassis. Anyone have a pic of how it should be done?

 

try shortening the ground wires. they seem abit tooo long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I didn't upgrade any grounds in the engine bay. Which ones should I upgrade?

Which one, the battery one, or the one for the amps? Where Should I move them to? And should I wire the amps back to the battery - post?
Sorry I'm such a newbie with audio ****, I was always (and still am) into engine performance. . </TD></TR></TABLE>
You gotta expect to get flamed with that install.

How do you have these wires connected in your engine bay?

You should at the very least upgrade the engine to chassis ground. On that car its connected to the transmission. Upgrade the ground in the trunk. Use one of the bolts that holds the bumper on. strip the paint first! then ground it directly to the battery. Amplifiers should also go directly to the battery. I would use a 4 gauge ground min on that setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You gotta expect to get flamed with that install.

How do you have these wires connected in your engine bay?

You should at the very least upgrade the engine to chassis ground. On that car its connected to the transmission. Upgrade the ground in the trunk. Use one of the bolts that holds the bumper on. strip the paint first! then ground it directly to the battery. Amplifiers should also go directly to the battery. I would use a 4 gauge ground min on that setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for actually helping. How do I get the wire to the bolt's that hold the bumper on?

So I should go from the amps to the battery?

All the wire is 4 gauge.

I have a 4 gauge wire going from the battery directly to one end of the circut breaker in the engine bay.
Then, where the orignal battery post connection was, I used a 4 gauge crimp ( the one with the hole in it) and used the orignal bolt to hole that wire on. 4 gauge wire then goes from there, to the other side of the circut breaker. I sucked ***** at explaining that. .