dgdarien

hey guys, can anyone help me out install a hella electric horn on a '00 civic?

i don't see why i need to use the relay included, can't i just use the original wires going to the original horn and split it into 2 for the 2 horns?

rojabuck

Currently your horn (standard) is wired up through the cars wireing loom and through the horn switch on ya car.. a normal horn draws very little current compared to that of a high powered horn (i think that's what your tryin to fit) therfore if you wire it directly to your standard horn wiring you will a) over-heat the wireing by trying to push too much current through it which may damage the whole wireing loom (can cause fire!) and b) wont be able to get enought current to the horn itself so it will run in whimpy quiet style.. So, best to use Big Thick wireing to your horn directly from the battery to get the best possible effect.. (Use the horn connections to simply control the relay)..

Hope this is of help
roja

WOTTEG

I realize that this is an old thread.

But, her is an excellent source on the topic:
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/horns.asp

There is a how-to diagram link somewhere on this page.

tonydatyga

thanks teken, electricity 1... to uselessly elaborate a relay uses a small signal current to create a magnetic field that will close (turn on) a larger load feeding switch. Thanks for your time

o_Rage_o

LOL .. Go Teken

Next question, on a standard bosh 30amp relay, if I were to leave it in closed/enabled/top and bottom pin continuity position while the car was off, how much current draw does it take and will it be too draining on the battery? (I realize this is how the starter kill relay works as well)

-Rage


edit: put 2 k's in tekken by a mistake

o_Rage_o

actually now that I think about it, in terms of just starter kill, yes your method should work.

Heres what I have right now:

Normally Closed Starter Kill


The reason I asked the question was because I was designing a safety circuit to detect when my car is in neutral. I was using a magnetic reed switch mouted to the shifter and permanent magnets around the boot placed in all gear positions. The problem with it was that the reed switch would obviously give continuity to the circuit when in gear rather than break it.

To fix this, i was going to use a relay that when i get the ground from the reed switch (ie. in gear) it was going to trigger my relay to break the override circuit on the alarm, this would require constant 12 volt drain because the realy would be latched when the car is in neutral.

Any ideas to make this setup better using the same magnetic reed? (i tried getting it to only close when in neutral, eliminating 5 other magnets, but no dice.

-Rage

o_Rage_o

Sorry Teken, I think I may have been confused from your response...mainly becuase I forgot to state that the neutral detection circuit I was trying to build (hence the...whats the load on a latched relay question) was all part of my grand scheme to safely remote start my manual, not to build a super duper starter kill.

Sorry But if you could re-read my posts now, knowing my remote start intention rather than a starter kill intention that it sounded like, could you reply with some tips?

-Rage

o_Rage_o

it was my fault..no prob

Ok, i'm adapting an automatic transmission remote start module and I'm trying to do it PERM and SAFE.

I have a (-) input that shuts off the remote start immideatly and disables the module they are:
Hood Pin
Trunk Pin
Clutch (to prevent shifting)

I also have override input (circuit based) that will not allow the module to start they are planned to be:
E-Brake
Safety Toggle Switch
My super duper (TM o_Rage_o) magnetic reed neutral detection circuit

My question related to the most efficient way to determine if the shifter is in neutral or in gear, the reed switch is mounted to the center of my shifter and there are magnets placed in the 1,3,5 and 2,3,R positions. This method would cause the reed switch to close when in gear and be open when in neutral (hopefully..)

In order to break the continuity of the override circuit, i was planning to use a relay so that the circuit is broken only when the shifter is in gear (obviously)

By reading your previous post, I'm assuming the best way to do this is to connect both ends of my ovveride circuit to the normally open contacts on the relay, and use the ground provided when the reed switch is closed (in gear) to break the circuit causing my remote start to be disabled (exactly like that of the starter kill pic i posted).

Oh yea, also, do i need a diode relay like in the starter kill to do this? Whats the diode relay good for in that situation ? preventing the current from hitting my alarm output i guess?

I was wondering if having the relays coil powered when the car is off and in neutral is a significant drain on the battery.

Any tips on making this more safe would be appreciated, sorry in advance for tying up the "New horn" thread. (changing the topic to something about relays would prob aid in others searches for knowledge)

-Rage


[Modified by o_Rage_o, 5:05 AM 7/16/2002]

o_Rage_o

yea your right maybe I'm getting too complicated, i was just trying for a full permanent soloution so its virtually impossible to remote start when your not supposed to.

-Rage who will also think about this problem for a while before asking....