Need Help with Subwoofer Installation
okay so i have a 2005 honda accord coupe and i want to put a 15" Legacy subwoofer in the trunk... but im not sure if there is a way to fit it.
i haven't bought the sub yet because im afraid that i wont be able to find a place to put it in the trunk without it being awkward or ugly
please help me find a way to fit it in!
here is a picture of the dimensions of my trunk:
i haven't bought the sub yet because im afraid that i wont be able to find a place to put it in the trunk without it being awkward or ugly
please help me find a way to fit it in!
here is a picture of the dimensions of my trunk:
yeah thats what i was thinking
the only reason why i want to put in the 15" is because i found a really powerful one for extremely cheap
but now that i think about it.. it probably sounds terrible since the price is so low haha
how does this look...

50$
description:
Brand New 12" Dual Band pass Enclosure
• 5/8" MDF Construction Outside & 3/4" MDF Partitions
• Black Carpet
• Chamber Design
• Gold post Terminals
• Plexi glass Window
• 4 Ported for Great Bass Response
• Standard Mounting Depth: 7-3/4"
• Dim: 32" W x 16" H x 16 1/2" D
• Box Volume per Chamber: 1.01 cu. Ft
and 2 of these subs:

2 for 98$
Description:
# Black Non-Pressed Paper Cone
# Specially Treated Foam Edge Suspension
# Stamped Steel Basket w/Hex Key Input Terminal
# Bumped & Vented Motor Structure
# Custom Designed Rubber Magnet Boot
# 2'' Dual Layer High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil
# 80 + 80 oz. Heavy Double Stacked Magnet Structure
# 1600 Watts Peak Power
# Dual 4 Ohms Nom. Impedance
# SPL: 91dB
# Mounting Depth: 6.4''
# Overall Diameter: 12.6''
and this amp:
120$
Description:
* 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS
* 2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
* 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS
* 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS Bridged
* Electronic Crossover Network
* Bass Boost Circuit
* 2 Ohms Stereo Stable
* Anti-Thump Turn-On
* Illuminated Top Panel
* Soft Turn On/Off
* High & Low Level Inputs
* Power & Protection LED Indicators
* Advanced Protection Circuitry
* Remote Control Bass Booster
* THD : <0.04%
* S/N Ratio : >90dB
* Channel Separation : >65dB
* Frequency Response : 15Hz~35kHz
* Dimensions : 11.06" W x 2.24" H x 21" L
tell me what you think
Modified by cr0ss at 5:58 PM 6/3/2008
Modified by cr0ss at 8:33 PM 6/3/2008
the only reason why i want to put in the 15" is because i found a really powerful one for extremely cheap
but now that i think about it.. it probably sounds terrible since the price is so low haha
how does this look...
50$
description:
Brand New 12" Dual Band pass Enclosure
• 5/8" MDF Construction Outside & 3/4" MDF Partitions
• Black Carpet
• Chamber Design
• Gold post Terminals
• Plexi glass Window
• 4 Ported for Great Bass Response
• Standard Mounting Depth: 7-3/4"
• Dim: 32" W x 16" H x 16 1/2" D
• Box Volume per Chamber: 1.01 cu. Ft
and 2 of these subs:
2 for 98$
Description:
# Black Non-Pressed Paper Cone
# Specially Treated Foam Edge Suspension
# Stamped Steel Basket w/Hex Key Input Terminal
# Bumped & Vented Motor Structure
# Custom Designed Rubber Magnet Boot
# 2'' Dual Layer High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil
# 80 + 80 oz. Heavy Double Stacked Magnet Structure
# 1600 Watts Peak Power
# Dual 4 Ohms Nom. Impedance
# SPL: 91dB
# Mounting Depth: 6.4''
# Overall Diameter: 12.6''
and this amp:
120$
Description:
* 2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS
* 2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
* 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS
* 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS Bridged
* Electronic Crossover Network
* Bass Boost Circuit
* 2 Ohms Stereo Stable
* Anti-Thump Turn-On
* Illuminated Top Panel
* Soft Turn On/Off
* High & Low Level Inputs
* Power & Protection LED Indicators
* Advanced Protection Circuitry
* Remote Control Bass Booster
* THD : <0.04%
* S/N Ratio : >90dB
* Channel Separation : >65dB
* Frequency Response : 15Hz~35kHz
* Dimensions : 11.06" W x 2.24" H x 21" L
tell me what you think
Modified by cr0ss at 5:58 PM 6/3/2008
Modified by cr0ss at 8:33 PM 6/3/2008
I would use 1 good 12" sub. Box is cheaper, amp is cheaper, and you can afford better components. Find a store that sells jl audio and buy a 12w6v2 ($300). And why not just get a jl 1400.1 amp too ($250). Then have a shop build you a simple box ($100, might be free if you buy the stuff there). Or build your own, it's not hard ($50). Now just don't cheap out on the cables or headunit are your money! Or of course you could shop eBay and pick some name brands on a sub and a amp. Still have a box made. Bandpass is okay but costs more, don't know that subwoofer brand, and I used to love lanzar back in the day(don't know about them anymore). Seems like some overrated products with cheap prices. Good luck
schmiddr2 that sounds good but i'm not looking to spend 600$ in parts.. this whole list combined costs a little over 250$.
and from what i understand from reading reviews and doing other research.. Lanzar is a very good brand name. Although i'm sure JL Audio is better quality, its also a lot more expensive for less powerful equipment
i appreciate your input
and from what i understand from reading reviews and doing other research.. Lanzar is a very good brand name. Although i'm sure JL Audio is better quality, its also a lot more expensive for less powerful equipment
i appreciate your input
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cr0ss »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">schmiddr2 that sounds good but i'm not looking to spend 600$ in parts.. this whole list combined costs a little over 250$.
and from what i understand from reading reviews and doing other research.. Lanzar is a very good brand name. Although i'm sure JL Audio is better quality, its also a lot more expensive for less powerful equipment
i appreciate your input</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you wanting to go for sound quality or volume of the subs(SPL)?
and from what i understand from reading reviews and doing other research.. Lanzar is a very good brand name. Although i'm sure JL Audio is better quality, its also a lot more expensive for less powerful equipment
i appreciate your input</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you wanting to go for sound quality or volume of the subs(SPL)?
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Dont go with a a single 15" if you want quality go with 2 12"s do it yourself and you can tailor the sound to your liking. build the box to your specific sound liking and also dont forget about clearing the trunk hinges.. i built a box which holds 4 10"s and its super clean sound output i probably spent less than 250$$ total including amps, speakers, wiring and material. use ebay its your friend.
I'm just trying to help, not knock down your choices. I have 14 years of good and bad stereo choices. I had 4 lanzar 10's in 1996 and they were awesome. The jl audio was an expensive suggestion. Heres another setup that will last and be $450 . The $200 difference is all quality and research and development(it's probably less than $150 difference because you probably didn't include shipping).
Subwoofer $150 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-S12...wItem
Amplifier $200 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER...wItem
Box needs to be made to specs of the speaker. Have one built. $100. Have a friend build it if you know someone good with carpentry and can read the specs. off the kicker website $50(so now it's down to $100 difference).
This setup will be louder and not break. Read on if you want to know why.
The reason why: The amp does not push the power it says it does and will fail when you try to push it too hard (I know something about cheap amps, I have made a dozen or so blow up). The subwoofer is cheaply designed and constructed. It will sound ok, but you will be buying new subs before the year is out. Especially in that bandpass box. Each subwoofer has a specific cubic feet of space needed and this box is not it. Causing the sub to blow or the amp to blow. Like I said I'm not hating on you or your choices, but take the advice from someone who has destroyed more car audio than most anybody.
Modified by schmiddr2 at 12:21 AM 6/4/2008
Subwoofer $150 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-S12...wItem
Amplifier $200 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER...wItem
Box needs to be made to specs of the speaker. Have one built. $100. Have a friend build it if you know someone good with carpentry and can read the specs. off the kicker website $50(so now it's down to $100 difference).
This setup will be louder and not break. Read on if you want to know why.
The reason why: The amp does not push the power it says it does and will fail when you try to push it too hard (I know something about cheap amps, I have made a dozen or so blow up). The subwoofer is cheaply designed and constructed. It will sound ok, but you will be buying new subs before the year is out. Especially in that bandpass box. Each subwoofer has a specific cubic feet of space needed and this box is not it. Causing the sub to blow or the amp to blow. Like I said I'm not hating on you or your choices, but take the advice from someone who has destroyed more car audio than most anybody.
Modified by schmiddr2 at 12:21 AM 6/4/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mv1luv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont go with a a single 15" if you want quality go with 2 12"s</TD></TR></TABLE>
How is the quality of a single 15 lower than of dual 12s?
How is the quality of a single 15 lower than of dual 12s?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schmiddr2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The jl audio was an expensive suggestion. Heres another setup that will last and be $450 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is more money but you pay for what u get; JLs are more expensive because they sound very nice
If you are into duals, get them. No one can tell you what sounds good to you...only you can decide what sounds good to you...but if you do spend a little more, more than likely you will like what you hear more.
Yes it is more money but you pay for what u get; JLs are more expensive because they sound very nice
If you are into duals, get them. No one can tell you what sounds good to you...only you can decide what sounds good to you...but if you do spend a little more, more than likely you will like what you hear more.
i'm not entirely sure what i'm "into" haha i have a cheaper Bazooka tube right now and its RMS is only like 150w i think... thats why im upgrading. other than that i really dont have too much experience with car audio, which is why i started this thread in the first place
i greatly appreciate all of your inputs. its all very helpful
as far as the JL and Kicker stuff goes, i know that those are like the top brands on the market for subs, and i would get what i paid for in quality. the thing is that i want a good amount of power without compromising quality. the Kickers and JLs are less powerful, yet more expensive.
i would just hate to plug everything in and then be disappointed by the final project because it isnt loud enough.
i greatly appreciate all of your inputs. its all very helpful
as far as the JL and Kicker stuff goes, i know that those are like the top brands on the market for subs, and i would get what i paid for in quality. the thing is that i want a good amount of power without compromising quality. the Kickers and JLs are less powerful, yet more expensive.
i would just hate to plug everything in and then be disappointed by the final project because it isnt loud enough.
even though you say they are more money yet less power you would be surprised with the jl or kicker subs you would get a better product and probably get just as much sound from the single 12 over 2 cheap 12's and not have to replace them 6 months to a year from now
but hey get what YOU want not what people you dont know tell you is better
but hey get what YOU want not what people you dont know tell you is better
thats a good point urbanbrown.
do you have personal experience with JL's/Kickers? or do you just like know the car audio business
do you have personal experience with JL's/Kickers? or do you just like know the car audio business
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cr0ss »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
want a good amount of power without compromising quality. the Kickers and JLs are less powerful, yet more expensive.
i would just hate to plug everything in and then be disappointed by the final project because it isnt loud enough.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you do know that to get 2 times the volume, you need 10 times the power? So to get twice the volume than a 12W6v2 and a JL 500/1 amp(500 watts) you will need 5,000 watts of power?
I know this is personal preference but, honestly, how loud do you need them to be? Is it to enjoy music or to purposly try to shake other peoples car?
If youre going to run this amount of power(even though that amp wont put out near as much power as it states it will) you will need a new high output alternator, very thick power wire. Even if this put out half the power it says it will, i dont think it would be more than 50% efficient so your power would need to be at least 150 amps
Modified by imadigitalgod at 8:08 PM 6/4/2008
want a good amount of power without compromising quality. the Kickers and JLs are less powerful, yet more expensive.
i would just hate to plug everything in and then be disappointed by the final project because it isnt loud enough.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you do know that to get 2 times the volume, you need 10 times the power? So to get twice the volume than a 12W6v2 and a JL 500/1 amp(500 watts) you will need 5,000 watts of power?
I know this is personal preference but, honestly, how loud do you need them to be? Is it to enjoy music or to purposly try to shake other peoples car?
If youre going to run this amount of power(even though that amp wont put out near as much power as it states it will) you will need a new high output alternator, very thick power wire. Even if this put out half the power it says it will, i dont think it would be more than 50% efficient so your power would need to be at least 150 amps
Modified by imadigitalgod at 8:08 PM 6/4/2008
You can't forget that the sensitivities of the subs are probably different; so a more efficient sub that handles less power can be just as loud or even louder than a sub that handles twice the power, but has a lower sensitivity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't forget that the sensitivities of the subs are probably different; so a more efficient sub that handles less power can be just as loud or even louder than a sub that handles twice the power, but has a lower sensitivity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also you do realize that those subs that say 1600 watts, thats its PEAK power. Its rms is most likely right around where the 600 watt JL 12w6v2 is...JL reports RMS, thats also why it seems like its not a very powerful sub or amp.
Also you do realize that those subs that say 1600 watts, thats its PEAK power. Its rms is most likely right around where the 600 watt JL 12w6v2 is...JL reports RMS, thats also why it seems like its not a very powerful sub or amp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know this is personal preference but, honestly, how loud do you need them to be? Is it to enjoy music or to purposly try to shake other peoples car? </TD></TR></TABLE>
As i said before i'm relatively new to the whole car audio thing... i don't really know exactly how loud 600 watts sounds.
i really havent decided exactly what i want... as you can see from my previous posts i have gone from one 15" to two 12" and now im considering just getting one 12" Kicker:

06S12L7-4
* Sensitivity: 87.4 dB
* RMS Power Range : 50-750 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 1500 Watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 20 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 100 Hz
* Diameter: 12 Inch
with this amp:

* mono subwoofer amplifier
* 375 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
* variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
* variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
* wired remote bass level control
Modified by cr0ss at 8:11 AM 6/5/2008
Modified by cr0ss at 1:43 PM 6/5/2008
I know this is personal preference but, honestly, how loud do you need them to be? Is it to enjoy music or to purposly try to shake other peoples car? </TD></TR></TABLE>
As i said before i'm relatively new to the whole car audio thing... i don't really know exactly how loud 600 watts sounds.
i really havent decided exactly what i want... as you can see from my previous posts i have gone from one 15" to two 12" and now im considering just getting one 12" Kicker:

06S12L7-4
* Sensitivity: 87.4 dB
* RMS Power Range : 50-750 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 1500 Watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 20 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 100 Hz
* Diameter: 12 Inch
with this amp:

* mono subwoofer amplifier
* 375 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
* variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
* variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
* wired remote bass level control
Modified by cr0ss at 8:11 AM 6/5/2008
Modified by cr0ss at 1:43 PM 6/5/2008
If you got that you could run the 2 dual voice coils in parallel to get the 2 ohm load to use the 750 watts of that amp.
But think of it this way: doubling the power of an amp only increases by 3dB. To get twice the volume, you will need 10 times the power.
THe advice i can give is go online and look at reviews for what you want(learn from OTHER peoples mistakes
). Also go to ur local audio shop and listen to what they have on display to see what u like most
Modified by imadigitalgod at 8:41 AM 6/5/2008
But think of it this way: doubling the power of an amp only increases by 3dB. To get twice the volume, you will need 10 times the power.
THe advice i can give is go online and look at reviews for what you want(learn from OTHER peoples mistakes
). Also go to ur local audio shop and listen to what they have on display to see what u like mostModified by imadigitalgod at 8:41 AM 6/5/2008
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