I installed an amp (JL 500/1) and a sub (10" Infiniti Kappa (?)) a couple of months ago. I noticed a flickering of lights when the bass hit, so tonight, I installed a capacitor. I'm pretty sure I did it right:

1) Charged the capacitor with a resistor.
2) Put the cap between the battery and the amp, but closer to the amp.
3) Connected everything up.

It powers up fine. But I still get the flickering of the lights. What could be the problem? Maybe I'm not ground good enough? Or the battery is going out? Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

a lot of the time a cap is not what is going to fix something like that. The only thing that will make it go away is getting a higher out put alternator.

 

First do the big three upgrade. Make sure the amp is well grounded. brb sorry

 

It's weird, because when I first put it in, the lights did not flicker at all. Then I noticed it starting to flicker a couple of weeks ago, then it started getting worse. That's why I put in the capacitor.

So I guess I need to put in a bigger amp and a battery...

Also, my fuse blew, which was a 5V 60 amp fuse and the guy at a stereo place sold me a 30V 60 amp fuse and said that it doesn't matter what the voltage is. Is that true?


Modified by P Nut at 9:45 AM 10/10/2006

 

First a cap WILL fix flickering lights, a larger alternator will NOT.

My guess is you have a bad connection or a crapy cap with a large ESR.

Putting caps in parallel will reduce the ESR and flickering.

 

Thanks. I will double-check my connections.

 

ya youre right, Cruthfield and I must be wrong.


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F....html

 

As a cheaper solution, I will check the connections to make sure that's not a problem. If that doesn't work, I'll look into upgrading. I know Optima yellow-top is recommended for a battery, but what about an alternator? Do I just go to Autozone and ask for a larger alt?

 

Checking the connections can always help and doing the big 3 like stated. Also the chance of a better battery helping with flickering isnt likely. As far as getting a bigger out put of your alternator you will have to look around for an aftermarket one. I doubt your local stores will have one.

A cap can help to fix slight bumps here and there if everything else is sound, but if you are putting out a lot of watts you will have to upgrade the alternator to stop it completely.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya youre right, Cruthfield and I must be wrong.


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F....html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well.. they are half right you are wrong. What they wrote is misleading and I'm sure was written by marketing.

If your current demands exceed you alternators output then yes a larger alternator will help. This is not why 80% of the people have flickering lights though.

Lets try to walk you through it.

Alternator produces what? This is the key to dimming.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A cap can help to fix slight bumps here and there if everything else is sound, but if you are putting out a lot of watts you will have to upgrade the alternator to stop it completely.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A larger alternator will still have flickering lights if a cap is not used.




Modified by nsxxtreme at 1:36 PM 10/10/2006

 

oh well in that case thanks for the informative post that had some kind of tech to it. If the current alternator can not produce enough power for the battery and cap that he has now to power his amp/subs then he needs to get a higher output one.

do you even know why the lights dim? saying a more powerful alternator w/o a cap wont change the dimming of lights makes no sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you even know why the lights dim?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
saying a more powerful alternator w/o a cap wont change the dimming of lights makes no sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It makes sense if you understand why they dim to begin with.

Play along and you might learn something.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Alternator produces what? This is the key to dimming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

An alternator produces rectified DC. It doesn't matter how big the alternator is, it still produces rectified DC. There is no alternator made that produces pure DC. They key word alternator should be an indication that the current alternates or AC (alternating current).

A alternator produce a rectified 14.4V
Battery produce 12V

There is a 2.2V difference between the two.

So what is the voltage swing on an alternator?

 

No clue what the voltage swing is nor do I care.

So seeing as how he has a cap, and I said if everything is working sound there is NO other reason why an upgraded Alternator would not fix the problem. Even if he didnt have a cap.

Maybe his alternator isnt working that well, maybe he is pulling too many watts that his battery is being drained faster than his alternator can fill it, fill it being a vague term.

I recommended a new alternator as the next step to a cap. Then the changing of wires. If you want to stay in make believe land then go for it. Also check out the FAQ and tell them they are wrong while you are at it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No clue what the voltage swing is nor do I care.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well then......... remain clueless and buy useless things until you read on a website a flux capacitor is the solution to all your problems.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So seeing as how he has a cap, and I said if everything is working sound there is NO other reason why an upgraded Alternator would not fix the problem. Even if he didnt have a cap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, I guess you know everything there is to know about electricty.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe his alternator isnt working that well, maybe he is pulling too many watts that his battery is being drained faster than his alternator can fill it, fill it being a vague term. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Battery doesn't run the lights or the stereo once the car is running.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I recommended a new alternator as the next step to a cap. Then the changing of wires. If you want to stay in make believe land then go for it. Also check out the FAQ and tell them they are wrong while you are at it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool so your recommending something he doesn't need.

 

I dont know why I waste my time on this forum.

edit: waste of time..................................

If we have anyone that's interested I can explain otherwise I will not waste my time. My stereo is an Autotek 100 far from pushing the electrical limits of the car. Notice the large dip? Is it any surprise this is when the lights flicker?



Modified by nsxxtreme at 11:13 PM 10/10/2006

 

A cap may help reduce flickering but its not a given. However, if there is something wrong with your electrical a cap wont help at all (like if u pull too much power, battery runs low, etc).

IMO the money used to put in a cap is better spent on a better battery and connections.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, DO THE BIG THREE. IT MAY HELP TO CHECK OUT THIS LINK http://forum.sounddomain.com/u...07801

Also a one fared cap is usually able to hold enough power to last about 1 millisecond. While the average bass hit is much longer. If u really want a cap get one that reads the voltage, that will be the most help. Alternators are expensive so do the BIG 3 and if u still have problems get a new battery.

 

I dont know why you waste time on here either, so dont let the door hit you on your way out. I think you are getting a little too technical on something that is simple. He already stated he has a cap, and like I said if everything else is sound that is the only next step. Let me guess an engineering student? lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He already stated he has a cap, and like I said if everything else is sound that is the only next step. Let me guess an engineering student? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>No I am actually a real engineer.

Your next step is a waste of time and money. Audio industry loves people like you fills there pocket books nicely.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you are getting a little too technical on something that is simple. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So simple it flew right over your head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know why I waste my time on this forum.

edit: waste of time..................................

If we have anyone that's interested I can explain otherwise I will not waste my time. My stereo is an Autotek 100 far from pushing the electrical limits of the car. Notice the large dip? Is it any surprise this is when the lights flicker?

Modified by nsxxtreme at 11:13 PM 10/10/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain... im interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So seeing as how he has a cap, and I said if everything is working sound there is NO other reason why an upgraded Alternator would not fix the problem. Even if he didnt have a cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok he DOESNT need an alternator. If the system was pulling to much power he would lose sound. Like i said earlier, do BIG 3, and if that isnt enough a new battery.

I would suggest that he gets his alt tested, although im basically positive its not the alt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If we have anyone that's interested I can explain otherwise I will not waste my time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

&lt; interested. Unlike captain-know-it-all, some people on this forum still have some things to learn.

 

I am not sure what you mean by "put the cap between the batt. and amp"

You are correct you want the cap as close to amp as possible, power cable to caps pos.(+) terminal, from caps pos.(+) terminal to amps pos.(+) terminal, ground cap at the same point the amp is grounded to. make sure it is a good ground, [most problems with amps is ground related] where is the amp/cap grounded now?

I also agree with nexxtreme "or a crappy cap", I would test the cap.

Also check batt. connections, and batt. to chassis and chassis to motor/tranny ground connections, definitely "beef up" the batt. to chassis ground.

What gauge is the amps power and ground lead and what kind of fuse are you using on the lead, where is the amp mounted? 94

 

Sorry I'm done explaining this topic. It will fall off in a week then be forgotten. Then it starts all over again. An we deal with the next web genious of the week.

It's not "simple" it a combination of different things. And to explain it takes work and time. Which I have better things to do then argue with someone that takes internet postings as fact and has no technical background to even understand whats been posted.

If you have a car built within the last 15 years I would say most are capable of running a 1kw system without upgrading the alternator. A Cap is a highly recommended addition to these systems. This will reduce the ripple voltage of your electrical system. This ripple voltage is what makes your lights flicker.

If you think a cap is a waste of time you have been misinformed. Every power supply has them, your vehicle electrical system is no different from a switching power supply minus the cap. Every cap is not created equal. ESR will effect how the cap performs. For switching power supplies you want the lowest you can find. A car is no different because the alternator produces rectified DC. A large ESR will result in energy being wasted inside the cap and having little to no effect on your cars electrical system.

If your looking for a standard I would look at Stinger caps and compare others to there caps. A .001 ohm difference is a huge difference.

If your a bass head and you continuos current requirements exceed your alternators ability you should probably look into an upgraded alternator. I would say this is for 1kw and above or someone with close to 1kw that just pounds the hell out of there system at full volume all the time.

This persons problem I would say is a wiring or "crappy" cap issue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would test the cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There isn't any cheap way that I know of to test for ESR. This usually involves expensive equipment. You could test for leakage easily, measure current going into the cap when fully charged. It should be almost 0.


Modified by nsxxtreme at 4:46 PM 10/12/2006

 

Having replaced the big three, ran 0 gauge, a stinger cap, and about 900-1000rms later I will say that a d series alt is not enough (either that or my alt was going bad). My headlights still dimmed at 4k rpm on the freeway

Thanks for the explanation nsxx