How much dynamat to do the floors, Roof, Rear hatch, and the doors. In a 1992 hatchback? Square footage or yards please. I also don't car how much wieght and **** it adds. I already know.

 

i was wondering this too

 

Well, so far my 96 hatch is taking more than 48 sq. ft. Its probably go to end up needing around 96 sq. ft. thats not including the roof though. That should add a good 36 sq. ft.

I hope you are getting a discount cuz thats a lot of dynamat. Oh, make sure you get the extreme cuz thats the only one that does anything and its easier to install.

 

I bought 2 50 sq ft rolls of b-quiet off ebay I didn't double layer everything but I did cover it all. I left the original hole in the doors and rear trunk area but my complete floor & roof is covered I used up 1 complete roll and 30% of another one. I have a picture of the rear hatch section I'll post later

Chris

 

Since this picture all the metal is covered in this area I left all holes open as I didn't want to waste material.

Chris

 

Cole D - did you use a heatgun/dryer when you installed your B-quiet or did the stuff seem to stick good enough?

 

Trust me the stuff sticks notice the date on the picture when I did it it was pretty cold outside 40 degrees. I used my girlfriend hair dyer on some pieces about 20-30 seconds at the most. When you first put it down you can pull it up but after it sits for 1 day you can forget about it I have more pictures I'll post later but I can't get to them right now

Chris

 

I never understand this question - why not just grab a tape measure and estimate?

one roll of raamat is 62.5 sq feet - that should be more then enough to get one layer down on everything, however to properly deaden a door, in a civic no less, I"d put about 30 sq ft in them alone.

I'd say two rolls, you will be able to cover everything with no isses, lap seams like you should, and get rid of any issues.

It's a bitch of a job though -

Also, I'd always recommend a little heat, it helps to mold the material to the car.

 

is there a site that shows you the proper way of installing it

 

I say 100 sq feet at the least. Better to have too much than too little.

I have 120sq ft in my sol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by got_no_sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say 100 sq feet at the least. Better to have too much than too little.

I have 120sq ft in my sol </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow that's alot you must have double layered everything I only have about 75 sq ft in my car total

 

d <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never understand this question - why not just grab a tape measure and estimate?

one roll of raamat is 62.5 sq feet - that should be more then enough to get one layer down on everything, however to properly deaden a door, in a civic no less, I"d put about 30 sq ft in them alone.

I'd say two rolls, you will be able to cover everything with no isses, lap seams like you should, and get rid of any issues.

It's a bitch of a job though -

Also, I'd always recommend a little heat, it helps to mold the material to the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did my doors but I don't think I put 30 sq in them that's alot I added about 8lbs of material to each door but I didn't cover everything because I wanted to be able to get to the windw motor if something happened do you have any pictures of "proper technique"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cole D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow that's alot you must have double layered everything I only have about 75 sq ft in my car total </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, only the trunk lid is double layered.

 

Do you have any pictures of the way you did the doors ?

 

probably around 100ish, i reccomend doubling it up on the doors. i plan to have around 300+ sq feet in my comp car when im done. but thats including ss sludge and some other liquid deadners

 

^ that probably wasn't aimed at me, but whatever.

 

I do my doors a bit unique depending on what is goign to be in them - let's assume there is going to be a driver in the door....

I use a stepped approach for the door skin, with the focus being right behind the speaker - The door skin gets one layer across the whole skin. Then a second layer that covers about 1/2-2/3 of the skin. Finally a 3rd and 4th layer go right behind the speaker - about a 10" square.

For the inner door panel area - where the speaker actually would mount to, like the photo above....I do one layer over the whole inner panel, but cut out the areas where the big holes are. Then, I use perforated aluminum sheet and cut patch panels for the big holes, shaping them until they fit. Next, cover those panels with matt on both sides. Screw them too the door with sheet metal screws.

Then one to two layers of closed cell foam over the whole door (I use ensolite).

Then the back of the door card gets covered with matt as necessary.

Along the way, you test the door by wrapping it with your nuckles to see if there is any vibration, etc. I pay special attention to the lock mechanism, door latch rods, etc and cover them in foam tape to quiet them down. I also tie the wireing down nicely to make sure it doesn't move at all.

Then put it all back together.

That's what I would call a proper door install. If you want to get a bit crazier, there are a few ways, but it involves aluminum channel and 600mph tape and a lot of work - what's posted above should be more then adequate and actually overkill for most.

But that's how you spend 30sq feet in two doors

 

Here's another pic. This was just a single layer. I have since changed the setup some.

 

All right guys, from those who have done it already, sol, cole, curley, what is the noticable difference outside the car. That is the main reason im doing this, so when i play some music loud, everyone doesnt see and hear my car rattle like crazy.

I am also doing it because it sounds better because it gets rid of road noise and what not, but i want to know, is it that huge of a difference from outside the vehicle.

This will help me on how far im going on this project, ex. doubling up, foam, etc.

 

Huge difference. Can still hear the system outside the car, but it's not as loud and no rattles.

As soon as you open the door though - or take the top off in my case - things get loud

Edit:

Dynamatting the **** out of your car = higher spl IN the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skater5067 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a site that shows you the proper way of installing it</TD></TR></TABLE>Awwwww yes... http://www.dynamat.com/technic....html 94

 

sound deadening doors in my old Civic:

http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/496797/8

 

fatmat.com has a kit with i think 100 sq. feet for like 130

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sound deadening doors in my old Civic:

http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/496797/8</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude you should be crowned Sound deadening King of HT very nice install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by romoracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fatmat.com has a kit with i think 100 sq. feet for like 130</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered that. Took them 3-4 weeks to get it to me

Stuff isn't as thick as dynamat extreme, but it works