so my i got this 4 ch. amp from my friend. i want to drive the two front speakers with the amp and the sub. can i do that with one amp or would i need another? and if so..how would i wire it exactly? TIA

 

Need more info..
Make and model of amp, front speakers and sub.

Yes it is possible if it is the right amp for the speakers and sub. 94

 

its a Pioneer Gm x324 amp.

kenwood KFC speakers

and a Punch 10" sub.

 

Unless the amp has a 2 low pass filters and high pass filters, you are either going to get highs that play bass and destroy themselfs, or a sub that plays mids and highs and welds its voice coil.

Use the amp for one or the other I would put it on my highs (thats what it was made for)
and buy a small mono amp for the sub.

To wire two seperate amps, you are going to need a 4ga amp kit with a distribution block (4ga in two 8ga out. assuming your amps take 8ga power wire.) I run Tsunami. Cut the power wire about a foot down strip it and attach the fuse holder, DO NOT INSERT THE FUSE. Run the batter cable through a grommet in the firewall and back to your trunk into the distribution block and then 8ga into your amps. The ground wire will need to be as short as possible and drilled into something metal. Run the power wire either down the passenger side or the driver side.

You will also need either 6ch RCA cables or a 4ch and a 2ch. Im also going to assume that you have a aftermarket cd player. If your cd player has 3 RCA outputs (sub, front, rear) hook up your RCAs accordingly if it only has front/rear outputs, you can do one of three things 1.buy two sets or y adapters plug them into the front RCAs and plug you 4ch RCAs into that. 2. Run two sets of 2ch RCAs, one for sub (rear) the other for your 4ch(front). 3. Take your 4ch RCAs and only plug in two of them, that way later if the cd player is upgraded to 3 preouts you will be able to fade/balance, without 3 preouts it will not fade/balance.
Whatever way you choose make sure that the RCAs are ran the seperate side as your power wire.

When all that is done get about 30 feet of good speaker wire cut it so there is 4 even wires, with masking tape mark each side (Front left +/-, Front Right +/-, Rear Left +/-, Rear Right +/-), and run each wire into its respective spot on the amp (FL, FR, RL, RR) and so on. take this mass of wires from your 4ch amp under the carpet all the way back to the radio, here is the tricky part. Hopfully you have purchased a harness to wire your cd player and not hacked up your factory radio harness. Either way the speaker wire (purple, green, white & grey wires) running from the cd player harness should say FL +/-, FR+/- ect. Once you distinguish what wires go with what speaker wire them to the new wire comming from the amp. Solder if possible!!!

Once that is done you should be able to figure out how to run speaker wire from your mono amp to your sub. Tsunami makes fine wires and connectors, dont cheap out with some scoshe walmart parts.

Put everything back together and your done. If you have never done a system before give your self about 6-8 hours, INSERT FUSE NOW. that is exactly how to wire it.


Modified by dynimitejack at 9:14 AM 1/3/2008

 

yeah. my amp ha 2 of those filter switches. i was going to put the sub on LOW PASS and the front comp. on HIGH PASS. is this right?

 

whats on your amp?

1 lpf and 1 hpf?
or
2lpf and 2 hpf

and does your cd player have 3 preouts or 2?

 

1 lpf and 1 hpf

my cd player has 2 preouts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superdat1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a Pioneer Gm x324 amp.

kenwood KFC speakers

and a Punch 10" sub.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that's not a lot of info, need model numbers.

You have a 4x30W RMS into 4 ohms amp, or 4x35W into 2 ohms, the way you want to work it is in 3ch mode, 2x30W and 1x70W.

I am going to guess that the Kenwood "KFC" speakers are more then 30W continuous and the R/F "Punch10" sub" is more then 70W continuous, also need to know if the sub is a 4 ohm or 2 ohm as the amp is not stable below 4 ohms when bridged, [1ch] .
My guess is you are going to be underpowered, way underpowered for the sub. 94

 

you will destroy the sub and fry the amp.

buy a mono amp or even a 2ch and do it right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dynimitejack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will destroy the sub and fry the amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily. I ran 2 6x9" speakers and 2 12's off of a 4 channel amp for about 2 years with no problems. I am not recommending this, and I do suggest to the OP that he has a separate amp for the interiors as opposed to the subs. Granted my 4 channel was very powerful and actually sounded very good, especially now that I am using the same amp for my 4 interior speakers and a separate amp for my subs. It may not sound a whole lot better now because it is in a full size truck and not my car though.

Anyway, to the OP, yes it can be done, but I would just buy another amp if I were you.

-Shane

 

I want to get another amp for the sub and use the 4 channel for the 4 speakers but as of now money isnt easy to come buy. eventually when i get a job again i will be getting the other amp. as of right now i just want something that will hold me through until that happens.

I dont remember the speaker model number and im to lazy to take my panels off to look at them. i do however remember that its rated 220 watts for the back, and 130 watts for the front. dont remember the ohms. the sub is ratted 110watts and 4 ohms. i hope thats enough info as its all i can get. thanks for the input though guys. i really appreciate it!

 

here are the specs for the amp:


4-Channel Power Amplifier with built in Crossover

Specifications
Continuous Power (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD)
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 30Wx4
4 ch: (2 Ohm) 35Wx4
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 70Wx2
Maximum Power (EIAJ)
4 ch: (4 Ohm) 60Wx4
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 140Wx2
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.008% (1kHz, 4 Ohm)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 108dB (IHF-A Weighted, at 1kHz)
Dimensions: 8-1/8" x 2" x 10-5/8"
Features

Bridgeable 2/3/4 Channel Capability
High-Current 2 Ohm Operation
PWM MOSFET Power Supply
Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
RCA Inputs (x2)
Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-4V)
Selectable Crossover: 80Hz, -18dB/oct. LPF (A Ch.), 80Hz, -12dB/oct. HPF (A,B Ch.)
Bass Boost (60Hz, 0 to +12dB)

 

Yes that's better, the speaker power handling your quoting is PEAK, meaning the continuous power handling is about 1/2 of that it's about 60W continuous for the front speakers and about 100W continuous for the rears, 110w for the sub sounds about right.

If you are careful with the volume you can run the system the way you want, it's not the under-powering that damages the the speakers, it's driving the amp into constant clipping that does the damage, if you drive the amp to it's rated output, [2x30W RMS into 4 ohms and 1x70W RMS into 4 ohms] you will have no problems

Just be careful with the volume.

When you can afford it, get a mono block sub amp, [1x125W - 1x150W] turn the 4ch amp into a 2ch amp, [2x70W RMS into 4 ohms] for the front speakers, leave the rear speakers on deck power. 94

 

right on. thanks for the help fcm. i appreciate it!