So my DA just got broken into and my stereo jacked. ******** smashed my window and grabbed my amp/sub. My own fault though since I have no alarm or anything and I awlays park on the street. So now I'm definitely puting one on. I already have a Viper 791vx alarm that I was planning on paying a professional to do a nice install on my project DC when it's done but the car is a long ways from even running so I figure I'll put that on for now. I just want the most basic of functions though. I'm only driving the car until my DC is finished so when I sell it I want to take the alarm out and put in the DC.

So I'm going to try this myself since I really can't afford to pay anyone. I've done some amp and cd players installs but nothing alarm related, so I'm clueless. And really alarms scare me a little bit. But I figure all I'll really have to wire is the brain, siren, led light, antenna, shock sensor, and a glass break sensor I have. Is that really it? It seems simple enough if that's it but I'm not sure. All I want is to be able to arm and disarm the alarm and have it go off on impacts or glass breakage. Also I want to make sure the 2 way remotes work so I know when the alarm is going off if I can't here the siren.

So is that for the install? Seems like it would be easy and only take a little while to do, which would be nice since it's getting cold and I have no garage to work in. But like I said I know nothing about this so I want to check and make sure that is all that is needed for what I want. Also, if someone who knows the alarms good enough could tell me what wires I can de-pin. Since I will only be using a few options I figure I will be able to remove most of the wires on the harnesses. Just need to know what I can remove and what needs to stay. Thanks in advance for any help!!

Start by eliminating the remote start portion.

MM&Y of car?
How long will it be in the car, [DA]?
Do you want starter cut or some other kind of immobilizer?
The 791xv does not have an "extra sensor" input so can you live with just the impact or class break sensor or will you do the extra wiring to have both? 94

The car is a 1990 GS 2 door integra. 5 speed and no power locks. I'm guessing I'll have the car less than a year. It already has 2 different forms of kill switches in 2 different locations from the previous owner. One is easily accessible and one is a pain to get to. They are both very stealth so unless you know my car there is no way you would find them both in a reasonable time. So with those I don't really feel a need to add much more security then the basic alarm set-up I'm thinking of. Plus my car is 95% stock on some steelies so it isn't really a theft magnet, I'm not too worried about it getting stolen. More worried about deterring potential thieves so it hopefully doesn't get broke into again, I hate cleaning up glass!!!

I would like to add the glass break sensor if it's not too difficult. I also realize I should tap into the dome light somehow so incase my door gets opened and the sensor doesn't go off the light will then trigger it.

From H1 harness remove...
H1/1 red/white.
H1/6 violet.
H1/9 black/white.
H1/10 white/blue.
H1/12 orange.

H2 harness is not needed.

The 3 pin door lock harness is not needed.

Of the 7 pin ribbon harness all you need is pin 2 yellow, it will supply ign. power to alarm brain.

You do not need the 8 pin "heavy gauge" harness or the relay satellite it plugs into.

From the H3 harness remove all but the H3/4 gray.

You do not need the H4 harness unless you want to do horn honk, [H4/2 brown].

Tag in sheet... http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...12667&MakeID=6 94

Okay FCM, I thought about doing it today but realized I have alot more questions for you, I really don't know jack about alarms. I depined the wires you told me I didn't need and this is what I'm left with. Here they go.

[H1 Harness]
H1/2 - I was wondering if for stealthness I could run this wire into the engine bay with my amp's power wire (in the same loom) and then instead of having it connect directly to the battery just insert the alarm power wire into where the amp's power wire fits into the fuse holder for the amp. That way the alarm would be fused twice and hidden rather well. It would just look like my amps power wire with no hint of other wires.

H1/5 - Where is the best spot in the car to ground for this? It says it's best to use a factory bolt, where would you reccomend?

H1/7 - What does this connect to exactly?

H1/8 - Says to attach to green/red wire at fusebox/driver kickpanel. But also says may require #775 relay. So do I need a relay? If so how do I wire it?

H1/11 - Where do I attach this wire to exactly?

[Remote start 7-pin ribbon harness]
pin 2 yellow - What do I do with this? It has plugs on both ends.

[Shock sensor]
What do I do with the green wire on it? On one plug it just ends and on the other plug it just loops back into itself. Also, where is the best place to mount the sensor for it to work the best??

[Antenna]
Where is the best spot to mount the antenna for optimal range? My windows are tinted 35% if it matters.

[Alarm Brain]
Where is the best spot to mount the brain?


I also have another 4-pin harness of some sort. I have no idea what it is for though. You didn't mention it and I can't find it in the manual at all either. Do you know what this is for? Also, is it okay to use posi-taps for when I need to tap in to a wire? I have a soldering gun but its big and bulky and I live in a apartment and have no power near my car. I can solder all connections except for the few that I need to tap in to other wires. I think posi-taps should work fine but I'm not sure. I've heard lots of bad things about T-taps and scothlocks, but the posi-taps look like they would make for a pretty secure connection.

H1/5-Any bolt on the frame
Shock sensor-That loop is a sensitivity setting (like cut i and its not as sensitive or something to that nature.)
Antenna-Personally the best location is higher up . A popular location is right by the rearview mirror.
I think that 4 harness is the trigger harness or aux out.
T taps are fine

Cutting the loop on the shock sensor is not a sensitivity adjustment. Its a multiplex system and will trigger either a warning or full trigger depending on how long the shock sensor output is.

Do not t tap anything into the car period. Flase triggers and non working triggers can occur. And breaking of the wire.

A dei 520t will be your best friend in this install too. You can stealth and hide everything but will do no good when the theif pops your hood and kill the battery before breaking into your car.

So I don't do anything with the green wire on the shock sensor then? Can I depin the part of the green wire that just ends and doesnt connect to anything?

And are posi-taps better than T-taps? All the posi-taps I've seen installed give a really good connection and when pulling on the wire you would probably break the wire before the posi-tap gave loose. And they dont really grip on the wire like a T-tap or scotchlock, it's more of a clamp that screws down. I know everyone always says solder is the only way to go, but what if you can't solder worth a jack? I'm sure soldering if only as good as the person doing it. I mean what would work better, a crappy solder joint or a properly used posi-tap? Plus I can't really solder anything in the car anyway, there is no power anywhere around my car for the iron. If it can be removed from the car I can try and solder it, but any connections that need to be done under the dash I'm not going to be able to solder in the car.

I also went ahead and picked up a 520t. How exactly do I wire this up and where is the best spot to put it?