Honda Civic 1998 EX
Clifford Matrix 12.5x
DEI 530T

I am having a few issues installing the window module. I am confident that I have the window switch and motor wires installed correctly. My concern is that I am doing something wrong when wiring the remaining wires into the alarm brain. I have the 530T Orange (negative ground when armed) wire going to the Martix Orange wire which is the negative ground when armed wire. I put the 530T Red/White (negative auxiliary input) wire to the Matrix White/Blue ( Channel 3 programmable output) wire. I ran the 12v wire into the fuse box and grounded all the appropriate wires. I can not get the windows to respond. This should be an easy install but for some reason it's give me a headache. Thank you for the input.





Modified by mechanix619 at 7:08 PM 5/18/2008

 

so ......whats the problem?

 

The windows aren't responding.

 

Do the windows work properly with the OEM switches? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do the windows work properly with the OEM switches? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, if they didn't I wouldn't have tried installing the 530T.

 

Do they work properly with the OEM switches after installing the 530T?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do they work properly with the OEM switches after installing the 530T?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, once the 530T is installed the windows don't operate at all.

 

did you set the dip switch for + or - input from the switches? and did you ground the black and both purple wires?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECSIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you set the dip switch for + or - input from the switches? and did you ground the black and both purple wires?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the dip switch set to "Factory." All the grounds are attached to chassis ground and not some lame piece of metal, the grounds should be fine.

 

You have miswired the 530T somehow.

All window connections must be made in the drivers door, drivers door window leads are the red/blue (up) and red/yellow (down), pass. door window leads are blue/yellow (up) and blue/orange (down), confirm you are wired in the right "direction", H1 harness leads go to the motor side of cut wire and H2 harness leads go to switch side of cut wire.
Make sure the violet (H1/1) black (H1/5) violet/black (H1/6) are grounded properly, BTW where did you ground them?
Also insure the red (H1/4) is a 12V+ constant, where did you connect that?

Once the 530T is installed it controls the windows, even when you use the stock switch, the stock switch is just supplying a trigger to the 530T, ign. must still be on for the stock switches to work, if you have tried it with the ign. on and they still do not work then it must be a miswire, either no ground, no power or the window leads are wired backwards, the other possibility is you have a bad 530T. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have miswired the 530T somehow.

All window connections must be made in the drivers door, drivers door window leads are the red/blue (up) and red/yellow (down), pass. door window leads are blue/yellow (up) and blue/orange (down), confirm you are wired in the right "direction", H1 harness leads go to the motor side of cut wire and H2 harness leads go to switch side of cut wire.
Make sure the violet (H1/1) black (H1/5) violet/black (H1/6) are grounded properly, BTW where did you ground them?
Also insure the red (H1/4) is a 12V+ constant, where did you connect that?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything in the door is correct, I am going off memory because I don't have the car in front of me but I used to have an older window controller so I know I have the correct four wires and I believe they are wired correctly. I put all the grounds to solid chassis ground behind the drivers kick panel like I said in a previous post. The 12v+ constant is plugged into the far left open spot on the fuse box under the steering wheel. I think my problem is the remaining wires that plug into the alarm brain.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Once the 530T is installed it controls the windows, even when you use the stock switch, the stock switch is just supplying a trigger to the 530T, ign. must still be on for the stock switches to work, if you have tried it with the ign. on and they still do not work then it must be a miswire, either no ground, no power or the window leads are wired backwards, the other possibility is you have a bad 530T. 94

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, the problem is one of five things, I just need to figure out which is the culprit. I believe the 530T is good because it at least makes a noise when I try to roll the windows up or down.

Thank you for the help. I'll check the door wires but I think they are correct. Once I get this working I would like to add a 529T so I can control my sunroof. There is always something to work on.

 

The windows should still work when the stock switches are used even if the two leads that go to the alarm are not connected, if they did and just did not work with the alarm it could just be a matter of current, [not enough ground trigger from the alarm outputs, easley tested by grounding the leads directly to the chassis to test.

One other thing I would check is, make sure the two leads for the alarm are not shorted to ground or each other.

Also try changing the dip switch settings, maybe "factory" is too low. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanix619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have the dip switch set to "Factory." All the grounds are attached to chassis ground and not some lame piece of metal, the grounds should be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your misunderstanding. one of the dip switches determines whether the input is pos. or neg. do you have it set for pos. input?

 

make sure u don't have all the grounds on the same spot. Try to make them atleast a foot apart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2boysboostin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure u don't have all the grounds on the same spot. Try to make them atleast a foot apart.</TD></TR></TABLE>whats the reasoning behind this?

 

Thank you everyone for the great input. I believe I know what the problem but I will not be able to test my theory until later this week but I will post as soon as I see if I am correct or not. I am already trying to figure out how to wire up the sunroof to either a 530T or 529T. If anyone has experience doing so it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the help.


I had all this stuff working on my car before, however, when my car was broken into the thief screwed up the alarm wires so badly I had to uninstall the old alarm and install a new one. I had a SmartWindows 4 before but from what I have read the 530T is better.

 

i just redid my alarm again. im using a 530t on this sunroof this time around. im tired of messing with the 529t. its not automated and doesnt know when to stop. you have to put a pulse timer inline with it to stop it from running or it will burn up the roof motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECSIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just redid my alarm again. im using a 530t on this sunroof this time around. im tired of messing with the 529t. its not automated and doesnt know when to stop. you have to put a pulse timer inline with it to stop it from running or it will burn up the roof motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I've been reading that a pulse timer is needed. Do you have a write-up for the sunroof procedure? I still have yet to check the window 530T. The OT is killing me, no time for fun stuff.

 

no i originally did mine back in maybe 01 or 02. save yourself the headache and just get another 530t

 

Well I got everything to work, sort of. The problem was the validity switches, but I also changed the ground point which may have had a little to do with the issue. The windows do not roll up when I arm the car, I have to activate channel 3 on the remote first which is annoying. I can roll the windows up or down when the car is turned off by using the stock switches. Is this normal? I do not remember my old SmartWindows having that option. I tied the ground-when-armed and auxiliary input wires from the 530T to the channel 3 wire of the alarm. When I had the ground-when-armed wire going to the same wire on the alarm brain I couldn't get the windows to go up.

 

If the 530T is wired correctly the stock switches should work "normally", ign. switch must be on pressing up should roll the windows up and pressing down should roll the windows down, although you will have fully automated operation for both up and down on both windows, they should not work with the ign. switch off.

I would check the alarms ground out when armed, it appears not to be working, if the channel 3 output rolls the windows up and whatever channel you are using for down works, then the ground out when armed is not working.

You say you have both the channel 3 output and the ground out when armed both connected to the 530Ts orange, [H2/4], is the ground out when armed connected to anything else, [starter cut]?

Try this, connect only the alarms ground out when armed to the 530T and nothing else. 94

 

I connected the ground when armed from the 530T to the alarm and the windows rolled up. I have the 530T's red/white and orange wires attached to the alarms channel 3 wire. I was reading that I may have to attach the 530T's ground when armed wire to the alarms negative door lock wire.

 

the red/white goes to whatever alarm output you want to roll down the windows. the orange connects to the alarms orange ground when armed wire. if it rolls them up upon connecting the g.w.a. and the alarm isnt on then you probably have a ground feeding back through a starter kill relays coil from the ignition wire. you can eliminate this by putting a diode in line with the g.w.a wire feeding the starter kill relay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanix619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I connected the ground when armed from the 530T to the alarm and the windows rolled up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
To what on the alarm?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanix619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the 530T's red/white and orange wires attached to the alarms channel 3 wire. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't do that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanix619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was reading that I may have to attach the 530T's ground when armed wire to the alarms negative door lock wire. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where did you read that?
The 530Ts orange (H2/4) must be connected to a constant ground, [ground out when armed] or it will not function properly, you can also connect it to an EXT output that can be programed to output as long as button is pressed or a timed EXT output, [as long as it is not the same one as the 530Ts red/white] if you want to be able to roll the windows up without arming the alarm.

Sounds to me like you have it miswired, the 530Ts orange, ground out when armed (H2/4) must go to the alarms ground out when armed, orange (H1/12) for window roll up when arming the alarm.
The 530Ts red/white (H2/3) can go to any neg.(-) EXT output, [the channel 3 programmable output, white/blue (H1/10) will work fine] for window roll down and venting when armed.
The 530Ts orange (H2/4) and red/white (H2/3) can not be connected to the same output from the alarm, no matter what that output is, the orange is for window up, red/white is for window down.

Also as JSPECSIR mentioned, if you are using the alarms orange (H1/12) to control a "kill" relay, you must use diodes to isolate the kill relay from the 530T. 94

 

I wired two diodes to the alarms orange wire and connected the 530T's orange to one of the diodes. I then connected the 530T's red/white wire to the alarms white/blue (CH 3) wire. I cannot get the windows to respond except by using the stock switches, and the stock switches are still functioning without the car ingnition on.


Modified by mechanix619 at 12:19 PM 5/25/2008


Modified by mechanix619 at 1:13 PM 5/25/2008