To deep????????
Looking into getting these speakers for the front doors in my 95 civic ex:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...tab=D
Didn't know if they were to deep or not and if they are to deep and i have to cut the "basket" will I be able to roll my windows down all the way.
Thanks
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...tab=D
Didn't know if they were to deep or not and if they are to deep and i have to cut the "basket" will I be able to roll my windows down all the way.
Thanks
Most people have to cut the plastic just because the magnet on the new speaker is wider than the stocker.
If the new drivers are too deep, you'll need to either buy or build some spacer rings to bring the new speakers out enough.
If the new drivers are too deep, you'll need to either buy or build some spacer rings to bring the new speakers out enough.
Not only too deep, also too big, the Alpine SPR-17S is an over-sized 6.5" speaker, your stock speaker housing takes a standard 6.5" speaker, biggest diff. is the stock housing has a 5" diameter mounting hole, the Alpine need a 5-11/32" diameter mounting hole, the other of coarse is mounting depth, stock is 2" the Alpine needs 2-5/16".
The simple solution is, as mentioned, making a spacer, using 3/4" MDF make a spacer that has an outside diameter the same as the speakers and an inside diameter that is 5-11/32", drill and counter sink the 3 mounting holes used by the stock speaker, mount the spacers to the stock housings using the 3 screw holes, mount speaker to spacer, [4 mounting holes].
The best way to do it is the replace the stock plastic speaker housing with a custom MDF housing.
94
The simple solution is, as mentioned, making a spacer, using 3/4" MDF make a spacer that has an outside diameter the same as the speakers and an inside diameter that is 5-11/32", drill and counter sink the 3 mounting holes used by the stock speaker, mount the spacers to the stock housings using the 3 screw holes, mount speaker to spacer, [4 mounting holes].
The best way to do it is the replace the stock plastic speaker housing with a custom MDF housing.
94
ok thats WAY to much work for speakers that i'll barely be able to hear with open downpipe and all, i basically drive a street legal race car as a daily driver... whats the best component(i think thats what they're called when they have a mini sub and a tweeter and crossover) speaker i can get man hands on for the money as well as coaxle speakers... i'm looking for the best bang for the buck.... i have a pioneer hu with 60w rms per speaker so i'd like to be able to take advantage of that high rms if possible
Then this is the speaker for you... http://www.eclipse-web.com/point/sp6500.html
However, you will need an amp, 2x75W RMS into 4 ohms will work very well, and give you enough power to get over a high noise floor, [loud car].
Your Pioneer HU is not "60w rms per speaker" that will be the peak/max power of the HU, the RMS power of Pioneer HUs is 4x22W RMS into 4 ohms on most of their HUs.
What is the model of your Pioneer?
94
However, you will need an amp, 2x75W RMS into 4 ohms will work very well, and give you enough power to get over a high noise floor, [loud car].
Your Pioneer HU is not "60w rms per speaker" that will be the peak/max power of the HU, the RMS power of Pioneer HUs is 4x22W RMS into 4 ohms on most of their HUs.
What is the model of your Pioneer?
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TractorBoy
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