Dash lights out. Help!?!
After installing a new stereo/cd/mp3 player in our 1998 Accord LX, the dash lights, console lights near the gear shift (PRNDL), and the climate control lights do not work. I've checked and even replaced some of the fuses to no avail.
After searching around the forum, the best answer I've found is that it may be due to an "under-dash" relay. Can anyone pinpoint where I can find this relay, or if anyone has other ideas, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott
Modified by S_Peck at 7:05 AM 2/2/2005
After searching around the forum, the best answer I've found is that it may be due to an "under-dash" relay. Can anyone pinpoint where I can find this relay, or if anyone has other ideas, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott
Modified by S_Peck at 7:05 AM 2/2/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S_Peck »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After installing a new stereo/cd/mp3 player in our 1998 Accord LX, the dash lights, console lights near the gear shift (PRNDL), and the climate control lights do not work. I've checked and even replaced some of the fuses to no avail.
After searching around the forum, the best answer I've found is that it may be due to an "under-dash" relay. Can anyone pinpoint where I can find this relay, or if anyone has other ideas, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott
Modified by S_Peck at 7:05 AM 2/2/2005</TD></TR></TABLE> When installing the new HU, did you use the illumination wire? If not, did you cap it off?
If the illumination wire shorts out, it candamage the dimmer control, pull it out and check and make sure it has power in and adjustable power out, but check and make sure that the OEM radio harness illumination wire is capped off if not being used, or if being used, that it's wired properly
94
After searching around the forum, the best answer I've found is that it may be due to an "under-dash" relay. Can anyone pinpoint where I can find this relay, or if anyone has other ideas, please let me know.
Thanks,
Scott
Modified by S_Peck at 7:05 AM 2/2/2005</TD></TR></TABLE> When installing the new HU, did you use the illumination wire? If not, did you cap it off?
If the illumination wire shorts out, it candamage the dimmer control, pull it out and check and make sure it has power in and adjustable power out, but check and make sure that the OEM radio harness illumination wire is capped off if not being used, or if being used, that it's wired properly
94
Thanks for the reply. I did cap off the illumination and the dimmer wires, since there was nowhere for them to go, but that was late in the process, so it is possible that it got shorted.
The dimmer is in the gauge cluster, so I'm guessing the switch is just behind, requiring removal of the gauges (right?). I'll give that a shot tonight.
Thanks again.
The dimmer is in the gauge cluster, so I'm guessing the switch is just behind, requiring removal of the gauges (right?). I'll give that a shot tonight.
Thanks again.
On this gen accord the dimmer control is an input to a digital circuit that in turn controls the brightness. If your running lights dont come on then it is a relay or a fuse. If the running lights are on but no dash lights then the problem could be the circuit I just mentioned. It is part of the "drivers side multiplex unit" and it costs a couple hundred bucks. If you dont care about dimmer control I can tell you a work around.
Running lights work.
Dimmer control does not interest me in the least, so if you don't mind, I'd like to hear the workaround.
Thanks for your help!
Dimmer control does not interest me in the least, so if you don't mind, I'd like to hear the workaround.
Thanks for your help!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S_Peck »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Running lights work.
Dimmer control does not interest me in the least, so if you don't mind, I'd like to hear the workaround.
Thanks for your help!</TD></TR></TABLE>matt_in_sd is right , and if you don't care about dimmer control, then just run a lead from the parklight freepin on the fusebox to the unused light lead in the OEM radio harness
94
Dimmer control does not interest me in the least, so if you don't mind, I'd like to hear the workaround.
Thanks for your help!</TD></TR></TABLE>matt_in_sd is right , and if you don't care about dimmer control, then just run a lead from the parklight freepin on the fusebox to the unused light lead in the OEM radio harness
94
First thing... be sure the two wires you capped off when you did the install are not touching each other. If those two wires are touching each other that might be what blew the original dimmer control.
Did you check fuse 9 on the drivers side fuse box?
Basicly what you have to do is supply ground to the dash lights in place of the dimmer circuit. There are a few places you can tap into to do this. I did it by grounding pin 15 of the "K" connector on the drivers side fuse box. You dont want to cut the wire because the fuse box is what ties all of the dash/interior lights together. I used one of the press on clips that make a connection to the wire without stripping or breaking the wire. Use a 20 awg wire or even 18 to go to gnd. You can also find the same point on pin 19 of the original radio connector, might be on of the wires you capped. Gnd any of these points and the dash lights will be on full brightness when you turn the lights on.
Did you check fuse 9 on the drivers side fuse box?
Basicly what you have to do is supply ground to the dash lights in place of the dimmer circuit. There are a few places you can tap into to do this. I did it by grounding pin 15 of the "K" connector on the drivers side fuse box. You dont want to cut the wire because the fuse box is what ties all of the dash/interior lights together. I used one of the press on clips that make a connection to the wire without stripping or breaking the wire. Use a 20 awg wire or even 18 to go to gnd. You can also find the same point on pin 19 of the original radio connector, might be on of the wires you capped. Gnd any of these points and the dash lights will be on full brightness when you turn the lights on.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt_in_sd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First thing... be sure the two wires you capped off when you did the install are not touching each other. If those two wires are touching each other that might be what blew the original dimmer control.
Did you check fuse 9 on the drivers side fuse box?
Basicly what you have to do is supply ground to the dash lights in place of the dimmer circuit. There are a few places you can tap into to do this. I did it by grounding pin 15 of the "K" connector on the drivers side fuse box. You dont want to cut the wire because the fuse box is what ties all of the dash/interior lights together. I used one of the press on clips that make a connection to the wire without stripping or breaking the wire. Use a 20 awg wire or even 18 to go to gnd. You can also find the same point on pin 19 of the original radio connector, might be on of the wires you capped. Gnd any of these points and the dash lights will be on full brightness when you turn the lights on. </TD></TR></TABLE>Are you sure about that , [for the one on the radio plug]? it shows it as a 12v+ and when I put 12v+ to it the dashlights come on.
94
Did you check fuse 9 on the drivers side fuse box?
Basicly what you have to do is supply ground to the dash lights in place of the dimmer circuit. There are a few places you can tap into to do this. I did it by grounding pin 15 of the "K" connector on the drivers side fuse box. You dont want to cut the wire because the fuse box is what ties all of the dash/interior lights together. I used one of the press on clips that make a connection to the wire without stripping or breaking the wire. Use a 20 awg wire or even 18 to go to gnd. You can also find the same point on pin 19 of the original radio connector, might be on of the wires you capped. Gnd any of these points and the dash lights will be on full brightness when you turn the lights on. </TD></TR></TABLE>Are you sure about that , [for the one on the radio plug]? it shows it as a 12v+ and when I put 12v+ to it the dashlights come on.
94
Matt_in_sd, I love you man!
Infinite thanks. That did the trick. The two capped and unconnected wires from the harness were labeled Dimmer (orange/white) and Illumination (orange). I ground out the Dimmer, and that did the trick. Let there be light!
Infinite thanks. That did the trick. The two capped and unconnected wires from the harness were labeled Dimmer (orange/white) and Illumination (orange). I ground out the Dimmer, and that did the trick. Let there be light!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure about that , [for the one on the radio plug]? it shows it as a 12v+ and when I put 12v+ to it the dashlights come on.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Were you using pin 9 or 19? Pin 9 (red/blk) is 12V through the light switch, Pin 19 (red) is normally grounded by the dimmer circuit.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Were you using pin 9 or 19? Pin 9 (red/blk) is 12V through the light switch, Pin 19 (red) is normally grounded by the dimmer circuit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt_in_sd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Were you using pin 9 or 19? Pin 9 (red/blk) is 12V through the light switch, Pin 19 (red) is normally grounded by the dimmer circuit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Red/black
94
Were you using pin 9 or 19? Pin 9 (red/blk) is 12V through the light switch, Pin 19 (red) is normally grounded by the dimmer circuit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Red/black
94
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