I hope this is the right form i didn't know where to post.

My 00 si got stolen about two weeks ago and I was fortunate enough to get it back. Unfortunately, now I have to fix all the things the thief screwed up

I have no knowledge about any of this so I'm hoping someone can help me out.

It looks like the guy hotwired the car but I'm not sure. there is a blue wire that is cut underneath the steering column. I traced the wire back and it looks like it comes off the main harness that goes to the ignition switch. Other than that one single wire I can't really see anything that looks like it was cut.

Here are some pictures to show what I'm talking about.




THis picture shows a long red wire that was sitting on the floor of my car when I got it back, I have no idea where it came from.



The problem I am having right now is that the amber lights on the gauge cluster do not work, neither does the glowing lights on my climate control. However, the gauge cluster is working and the lights on the e-brake, turn signal, CEL light etc. are all still working also.

Any help would be appreciated and if anybody could let me know what i need to do to fix this so that everything is working like normal again that would be great

thanks


Modified by em1 chad at 2:54 PM 5/2/2008

 

MM&Y of car would help. 94

 

oh yeah the car is a 00 civic si

 

Sorry, I am not sure I am able to help, I do not know what that blue lead is, it may be "key sense".
However the "dash lights", [instrument cluster and heater control] leads are red/black, [pos.(+)] and red, [neg.(-)] so I would check your dash light fuse in the under dash fuse box.

You said no other leads are cut, but was the ign. switch hanging there like in the pix?
Does the car start or even turn over, [crank]?

The red lead is not an OEM lead, probably something they were using to hot wire the car. 94

 

umm... where is your steering lock?

that white thing dangling, is the combination switch... it attaches to the steering lock

all you need to do is turn the center, and the car starts..

you don't need to "hot-wire" the car...

check your fuses... for a blown fuse...

 

yeah the car turns on by just turning the center. But why would that blue wire be cut if they started the car by taking off the combination switch? i guess thats kinda what im asking.

 

it might have gotten ripped off...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, I am not sure I am able to help, I do not know what that blue lead is, it may be "key sense".
However the "dash lights", [instrument cluster and heater control] leads are red/black, [pos.(+)] and red, [neg.(-)] so I would check your dash light fuse in the under dash fuse box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thanks ill check that fuse and i guess try going to honda to fix the combination switch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em1 chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But why would that blue wire be cut if they started the car by taking off the combination switch? i guess thats kinda what im asking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe it was cut before they jacked it

 

The " white thing dangling" is not the "combination switch" it is the ignition switch, it is screwed in, [two screws] to the back of the "".

However, "umm... where is your steering lock?",[Lock cylinder and steering column lock assembly] is a good question.

Starting the car is as easy as removing the two screws that hold the ign. switch in the lock cylinder housing and using a screw driver to turn the switch, assuming car does not have OEM immobilizer.

Driving/steering the car would require getting past the steering column lock, probably by just removing the whole lock cylinder/steering column lock assembly. 94

 

eh... actually honda calls that switch: "switch, steering" but its listed under "combination switch"

he said he had a 2000 honda civic.. i don't think those came with an immobilizer

your best bet is to find a junk yard steering column assembly..

and have a locksmith re-key it to yours... since you are missing it...

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...WITCH

 

And my manual calls it an ign, switch, which makes sense, as that is what it is.

The combination switch, [my manual] is the signal light/head light/dimmer switch, "Combination Light Switch" which is what it is.

But then again the exploded view calls #007 a "body, switch", if anything it's a switch housing but it's not a switch of any kind, go figure.

Maybe something is lost in translation. 94

 

well lets figure out how we can prevent this. Was the column intact 100% before the theft? You need to answer this 1st.

Could you use different screws on the ignition lock cylinder, so it would be impossible to unscrew it?

 

the steering lock.. which is what the "ignition switch" is attached to...

is easy to break off... if you whack at it... mine was broken off like this, they also relocated the column down and right a few mm...

you can prevent them from unscrewing it, its called thread locker..

but if you have a stealth alarm install, with a few layers of kill switches..

you can still unscrew it if you have to...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the steering lock.. which is what the "ignition switch" is attached to...

is easy to break off... if you whack at it... mine was broken off like this, they also relocated the column down and right a few mm...

you can prevent them from unscrewing it, its called thread locker..

but if you have a stealth alarm install, with a few layers of kill switches..

you can still unscrew it if you have to...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thread locker is no match for an impact hammer.

Im talking stainless hex bolts/screws, and grind part of the head down so you cant unscrew it.

The BIGGEST step in security, is preventing them from getting in. I sacrifice alot of things for security, such as;

An opening trunk
Power locks only unlockable by alarm
No interior door locks (unhooked lever off of door locks on the coupe; and unscrewed the pop-up locks on the sedan)....so if you break a window, you CANNOT reach inside and unlock the car, you have to crawl into the window, and crawl out- while the alarm is going off [bloody mess]. Next step is to weld the key holes shut, honda's locks are beyond pathetic
Takes me 4 tools and 15 minutes to pop the hood

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thread locker is no match for an impact hammer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you do realize that the screws in question are really small... the head is no bigger than 1/4" and i think its a #0 or #1 philips head, those are really tiny....

and that if they can't unscrew the ignition switch, just cut the wires... and hot wire it like the olden days...

the point is.. its not a good point to stop them at... layered kill switches will stop the car from starting...

if you can prevent the thief from starting your car, you have saved your car...
a main relay kill, pump kill, and starter kill are three good layers in stopping your car from starting...

imo, loosing convenience features like a working trunk, working locks from the inside... is overkill for a daily driven car...

------------------
a thief can always get in your car... just smash the glass... 2 seconds, and climb right in...

security should be a balance of minimal damage, preventing the car from being started, and notification to the owner

notification is only provided by a good alarm install...

 

I have to agree with bpr0422 until you install unbreakable glass in your car all the rest is kind of useless as even a normally locked door will really keep honest people out of your car a crook will just bust the window and open the door or climb in.
The only way to cut down the the chance of your car being stolen is to install a good alarm and add at least one redundant kill switch.

I don't even leave my doors locked when parking in high risk areas, my EXT 1 button is connected to the door unlock so I can arm the alarm and then hit EXT 1 to unlock the doors, I am a lot more concerned about damage to my car then I am about anybody being able to steal the car.

What works is....
1- A properly installed good quality alarm w/ starter disable
2- A redundant passive arming ign. kill.
3- A redundant active arming PGM-FI Main Relay kill switch.

I would say paging so you know when there is an attempt on your car, however you can't always be in range and even if you are and you are close enough to get to the car in time, would you want to, I sure as hell am not going to get killed or hurt bad because of my car.

Last but not least, GPS tracking, just in case they tow/flat deck/trailer the car. 94

PS, this tread has wondered away from the OPs question lets see if we can get back to finding out what the blue lead is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you do realize that the screws in question are really small... the head is no bigger than 1/4" and i think its a #0 or #1 philips head, those are really tiny....

and that if they can't unscrew the ignition switch, just cut the wires... and hot wire it like the olden days...

the point is.. its not a good point to stop them at... layered kill switches will stop the car from starting...

if you can prevent the thief from starting your car, you have saved your car...
a main relay kill, pump kill, and starter kill are three good layers in stopping your car from starting...

imo, loosing convenience features like a working trunk, working locks from the inside... is overkill for a daily driven car...

------------------
a thief can always get in your car... just smash the glass... 2 seconds, and climb right in...

security should be a balance of minimal damage, preventing the car from being started, and notification to the owner

notification is only provided by a good alarm install...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to disagree personally. Kill switches only take extra time for them having to rip apart your rear seats, and your lower dash to bypass all the sources.

Dont hear the fuel pump prime? take a long wire and go directly to the 12v wire on the fuel pump. Dont hear the main relay click? well you have to options there. It only slows them down, but once they;re inside your car IMO you lose [theif pops the hood, starts snipping wires, removing random ****].

Once they're in your car its not hard to start bypassing all of your layers. Mainrelay, ignition kill, starter kill from inside the engine bay, fuel pump kill using your 12v car adapter. Why spend time looking for a switch, when you can just run wires to everything you need?

Maybe im tired and nothing makes sense, but you learn alot by trying to steal your own car everyway possible, only to know your cars security's weakness. I just found preventing them from getting in is a HUGE step, because when they got in my car, then the damage started. My car might as well been stolen after all the wires they clipped, and **** they ripped out. They got in by bending the window, and pulling up the lock [ej8-4 which has since been removed], then they were able to pop my hood, and strip it on the spot, no need to steal it [mall parking lot].

OP they probably used 3 wires, which most honda theifs probably use. One for the starter, one for the ignition and possibly the fuel pump/or a ground wire. The blue one is for the tach/coil.

People should think about what I did in my other thread, by covering all my wires and harnesses in aluminum backed tar, which woiuld be dam near impossible to cut. Ive tried stealing my own car with my all my harnesses loomed in aluminum, and the only way to make the car move is a flat bed. And my theory in this case would have saved your car, since no wires would have been able to be cut.

 

All of that is useless because as fcm said you don't have unbreakable glass. Your car is basically a salvage. You made a big mess of your car and if you want to try to advocate that other people do something similar I will personally shut you down in every thread because it's detrimental to everything myself and others here have tried to advocate: EFFECTIVE, PRACTICAL, AFFORDABLE car security. When you present something so extremely impractical and irreversible, people take a look at that and use it as an excuse to not have any security at all. Enough people already have a hopeless, fatalist attitude toward car theft and that is a car thief's greatest advantage.

To the OP, I would go to a "pick your part" salvage yard and get a new steering column / ignition harness. Then have a key made for it. Re-key the trunk. Disconnect the door key cylinder rods and use keyless entry. The people in this forum will help you put together an effective car security setup so this never happens again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All of that is useless because as fcm said you don't have unbreakable glass. Your car is basically a salvage. You made a big mess of your car and if you want to try to advocate that other people do something similar I will personally shut you down in every thread because it's detrimental to everything myself and others here have tried to advocate: EFFECTIVE, PRACTICAL, AFFORDABLE car security. When you present something so extremely impractical and irreversible, people take a look at that and use it as an excuse to not have any security at all. Enough people already have a hopeless, fatalist attitude toward car theft and that is a car thief's greatest advantage.

To the OP, I would go to a "pick your part" salvage yard and get a new steering column / ignition harness. Then have a key made for it. Re-key the trunk. Disconnect the door key cylinder rods and use keyless entry. The people in this forum will help you put together an effective car security setup so this never happens again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obviously my intentions are not to be detrimental to you business or your security designs. Im only trying to stay above a victim status every 3 days. I only thought of looming everything like that to be a redundant layer....obviously everything else i have done to my car was taken after your advice.

If im posting it on here, im only trying to help


and can you elaborate on discconnecting the rods on the locks? Ive already disconnected the switches and manual locks


Modified by bigsyke at 1:33 PM 5/4/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS, this tread has wondered away from the OPs question lets see if we can get back to finding out what the blue lead is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm.. does the 96-00 civics have that glowing key ring, around the key hole?

cause it could be the wire to that...

i mean if it was, it would explain why his dash light fuses blew... i assume that they would be on the same circuit, or linked some how..

on the 92-95 civics, i don't think they came with the glowing ring...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

umm.. does the 96-00 civics have that glowing key ring, around the key hole?

cause it could be the wire to that...

i mean if it was, it would explain why his dash light fuses blew... i assume that they would be on the same circuit, or linked some how..
on the 92-95 civics, i don't think they came with the glowing ring...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point.
Should be easy to tell if the dash light fuse is blown and he replaces it and the dash lights work again, then that lead would be hot when dash lights are on, however, the dash light circuit leads are red/black for power and black for ground or red for ground if connected to the dash light brightness controller, also I believe the "glowing key ring" is not controlled by the park/head light switch but by the drivers door pin and ICU, [it comes on when you open the door] but it could still get it's 12V+ from the dash light circuit as it is a constant power, [hot at all times].

We are still waiting for the OP to respond about the key cylinder housing/steering wheel lock assembly, if it's there or not, but I am pretty sure he would not need a whole steering column, just the key cylinder housing/steering wheel lock assembly and a new set of "sheer bolts". 94

 

6th gens dont have the glowing key ring, but I think you can turn the headlights on and tap into one of the 12v wires on the column.

Isnt the tach wire for ignition? thats the blue wire. That blue wire almost looks blue/white

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Obviously my intentions are not to be detrimental to you business or your security designs.
Modified by bigsyke at 1:33 PM 5/4/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have and never have had a business. I've never made more than a couple hundred bucks every 3 months or so on the side, and I haven't made anything in almost a year. You're thinking of wrx-killer-sti-eater.

You're not harming me. You're harming your fellow HT members.

 

hey guys,
im trying to understand what you guys are all saying cuz there has been so many responses haha.
but yeah the key cylinder housing/steering wheel lock assembly is not there, what is in the pictures is all that is left.