Car Audio FAQs
I don't agree with your DSP faq but the rest from what I have read looks good.
The advantage of a DSP is if you are processing in the digital domain you are not adding "noise". Ideally you would only have noise added when going from anolog to digital and from digital back to analog. Far less than what an anolog system would add. You also don't get signal loss from passing through passive components, which an analog signal processor would.
How about a capacitor faq LOL!! One of these days I am going to get out my oscilliscope and take some picks of what a cap does. Great effort on the faq.
The advantage of a DSP is if you are processing in the digital domain you are not adding "noise". Ideally you would only have noise added when going from anolog to digital and from digital back to analog. Far less than what an anolog system would add. You also don't get signal loss from passing through passive components, which an analog signal processor would.
How about a capacitor faq LOL!! One of these days I am going to get out my oscilliscope and take some picks of what a cap does. Great effort on the faq.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the most part, i've seen that this forum is ignored by most. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Trolls and bo-bo's tend to avoid this forum, for some reason.
For the most part, everyone is chill, so the mods don't ever have much to do here.
Trolls and bo-bo's tend to avoid this forum, for some reason.
For the most part, everyone is chill, so the mods don't ever have much to do here.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FEDBYSPOON »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i already knew that
do you know what parts you need for a ls swap LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
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do you know what parts you need for a ls swap LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ek-CoolGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, someone needs to restore his user rating! Damn, I learned a lot.
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lol. that's what happens when you get mouthy with a bad moderator. oh well. glad you learned.
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol. that's what happens when you get mouthy with a bad moderator. oh well. glad you learned.
butt connectors are not the best connection, solder is definately better. If you are going to crimp, use a cap, the wires are twisted together, not just two wire jammed into a tube that if you crimp on the wrong section(look inside) will pull out easily.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a2pwrd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">butt connectors are not the best connection, solder is definately better. If you are going to crimp, use a cap, the wires are twisted together, not just two wire jammed into a tube that if you crimp on the wrong section(look inside) will pull out easily.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is very true!
it has been my experience to never use butts unless there is no way to use a cap due to slack or length restrictions, like when the customer has a cheesey *** amp kit and they have an expidition and they isist that the amps on the rear liftgate.
and is there some sort of length restriction on posts in here? bc you could edit all that into one.
lastly, ive been working in audio security 5 years now, and there were a few things i didnt know mentioned like that amp mono input thing, i though they all would split the inputs if you bridge, but it makes sense that they wouldnt bother when it works with just one input, just not the way it really should.
great thread.
this is very true!
it has been my experience to never use butts unless there is no way to use a cap due to slack or length restrictions, like when the customer has a cheesey *** amp kit and they have an expidition and they isist that the amps on the rear liftgate.
and is there some sort of length restriction on posts in here? bc you could edit all that into one.
lastly, ive been working in audio security 5 years now, and there were a few things i didnt know mentioned like that amp mono input thing, i though they all would split the inputs if you bridge, but it makes sense that they wouldnt bother when it works with just one input, just not the way it really should.
great thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a2pwrd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">butt connectors are not the best connection, solder is definately better. If you are going to crimp, use a cap, the wires are twisted together, not just two wire jammed into a tube that if you crimp on the wrong section(look inside) will pull out easily.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said butt connectors were the best connection. obviously if you dont crimp in the right spot then you'll have a poor connection but done properly they can have more than enough strength for any car audio application. its amazing how many people dont know how to properly put on a wire cap too though.
i never said butt connectors were the best connection. obviously if you dont crimp in the right spot then you'll have a poor connection but done properly they can have more than enough strength for any car audio application. its amazing how many people dont know how to properly put on a wire cap too though.
well. i'm formerly spark plugs. and hopefully the kind moderators of H-T will allow me to be a member this time with no troubles. I also hope that all hard feelings have been dismiss. Therefore, I am back open to questions regarding your audio/security/videos.
I'm sorry you had to get banned but either way you're back. I posted this question on remote start thread and i might as well try my luck here.
How much does it cost to install the remote start feature? The idiots who originally wired my alarm failed to wire the remote start feature. I can only guess as to what else they forgot or screwed up in.
I'm not going to try and wire it myself. I'll head over to the alarm shop that installed my alarm accessories for the RSX3.5. Just curious about price range. Also, i have the wiring diagram and wires necessary for the job. Hopefully everything will go well.
Please any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much
Oh yeah it's going to be done on a '90 CRX in case you needed to know.
How much does it cost to install the remote start feature? The idiots who originally wired my alarm failed to wire the remote start feature. I can only guess as to what else they forgot or screwed up in.
I'm not going to try and wire it myself. I'll head over to the alarm shop that installed my alarm accessories for the RSX3.5. Just curious about price range. Also, i have the wiring diagram and wires necessary for the job. Hopefully everything will go well.
Please any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much
Oh yeah it's going to be done on a '90 CRX in case you needed to know.
How do I install a capacitor?
If you conclude that your best course of action is to install a capacitor, it should be installed in parallel with the amplifier and, generally speaking, should be wired with approximately the same gauge wire used for a single amplifier (usually 8 ga. is sufficient even for rather large capacitors).
Before permanently installing it, it must be charged. Failure to do so could lead to blown fuses and lots of sparks! Some capacitors come with charging resistors. If yours does not, you can simply buy an automotive bulb and wire it in series with the capacitor's + lead while the capacitor is grounded. The bulb will continue to dim until the capacitor is fully charged. Once the capacitor is charged, it should be treated as you would a car battery; caution must be used to be sure not to short the terminals.
The final step is to permanently install it into the car. There's been much debate about where to install the capacitor. It's been argued that the placement is important because it requires shorter wire lengths. While this is true, there has never been any evidence supporting the notion that it should be installed as close (electrically) to the amplifier as possible. In fact, electrical theory demonstrates that it's more effective at quenching the dimming effects by installing it as close to the device exhibiting the symptom (ie. the headlights) rather than the device that's drawing the bulk of the current (ie. the amplifiers). However, the benefit to doing so is negligible. Therefore, hooking it directly to the battery, the amplifier terminals, or the distribution block are equally valid solutions as long as the mounting location is safe, the wire lengths are reasonably short, and there's an adequate ground present.
Good info but i always tell anyone that dosent know what they are doing when it come to caps is pay someone to install it a cap is not a toy.
If you conclude that your best course of action is to install a capacitor, it should be installed in parallel with the amplifier and, generally speaking, should be wired with approximately the same gauge wire used for a single amplifier (usually 8 ga. is sufficient even for rather large capacitors).
Before permanently installing it, it must be charged. Failure to do so could lead to blown fuses and lots of sparks! Some capacitors come with charging resistors. If yours does not, you can simply buy an automotive bulb and wire it in series with the capacitor's + lead while the capacitor is grounded. The bulb will continue to dim until the capacitor is fully charged. Once the capacitor is charged, it should be treated as you would a car battery; caution must be used to be sure not to short the terminals.
The final step is to permanently install it into the car. There's been much debate about where to install the capacitor. It's been argued that the placement is important because it requires shorter wire lengths. While this is true, there has never been any evidence supporting the notion that it should be installed as close (electrically) to the amplifier as possible. In fact, electrical theory demonstrates that it's more effective at quenching the dimming effects by installing it as close to the device exhibiting the symptom (ie. the headlights) rather than the device that's drawing the bulk of the current (ie. the amplifiers). However, the benefit to doing so is negligible. Therefore, hooking it directly to the battery, the amplifier terminals, or the distribution block are equally valid solutions as long as the mounting location is safe, the wire lengths are reasonably short, and there's an adequate ground present.
Good info but i always tell anyone that dosent know what they are doing when it come to caps is pay someone to install it a cap is not a toy.
Personally, I don't like charging the capacitor before installing it. **** sparks like crazy if it is charged, and I have never blown even a small fuse by charging the cap in the car.
Just make sure you pull the main fuse out until the install is complete. Something you should do on every install anyways.
Just make sure you pull the main fuse out until the install is complete. Something you should do on every install anyways.




