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Battery Relocation

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
romoracing's Avatar
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From: Streets Of, Ca, Usa
Default Battery Relocation

Well its been a while since I posted on this site. Its the holidays and this is when stores become busy. So im working like crazy.

Well i got a question ive never relocated a battery. Ive added batteries never relocated the front one. Well I wanted to move my battery to the trunk and i was wonder about fusing the wire. But i was thinking my battery puts out 855 cca. Theres no fuse that I know of that can support that. should I even fuse the wire BECAUSE ive seen the summit racing ones and they dont got a fuse. Your help will be greatfull. Thanks!
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (romoracing)

i used a kicker 1/0 gauge amp kit to relocate my battery...installed a distribution block that came with the kit in the front engine bay to power the fuse box, abs and any other accessorys you have. works very nicely...

u can use a 2 gauge kit as well...go on ebay and shop around for amp kits! they have what u need to do a battery relocation...
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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From: Locash
Default Re: Battery Relocation (romoracing)

You don't fuse the battery based on the maximum cold cranking amps. Just match the factory fuse, which is a 60Amp I believe. I strongly suggest a ANL fuse holder because those glass cylinder fuses always vibrate loose before they ever blow.

It is extremely important that you fuse the wire. If you don't, at some point, your car will catch fire.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (suspendedHatch)

Thanks guys. I was just curious because the summit one dont come with a fuse. Thanks again.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #5  
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (romoracing)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't fuse the battery based on the maximum cold cranking amps. Just match the factory fuse, which is a 60Amp I believe. I strongly suggest a ANL fuse holder because those glass cylinder fuses always vibrate loose before they ever blow.

It is extremely important that you fuse the wire. If you don't, at some point, your car will catch fire.</TD></TR></TABLE> Although I agree, mostly, however..... there is no fuse between the batt. and starter, [stock], the fuse you install at the batt., [on cable running from batt. to starter motor] should be whatever size the cable can handle,
EG; a 1/0 ga cable will handle 350A , a 2ga cable can handle 225A and a 4ga cable can handle 150A, so pick the fuse according to the power cable you run, and yes you can get "big" good quality fuses, Bussmann makes ANL fuses up to 750A.

Connect the batt. cable to the starter solenoid and run an 8ga from the solenoid, [same terminal] to the under hood fuse/relay box. 94
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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From: Locash
Default Re: Battery Relocation (fcm)

That way of determining fuse size is technically correct. But if the car is never supposed to draw more than 60A at a time, then having a higher rated fuse only results in one thing: more sparks/burn marks when something goes wrong. So for all practical purposes I think 60A or 80A is your best and safest bet.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 06:25 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (suspendedHatch)

So what is the current draw of the Honda/Acura starter motor when temp. is below 32 degrees, [or as we say "below 0"], let me put that another way what is the current draw, if you start the car with your lights on?

With your reasoning if you don/t need anything bigger then a 60A-80A fuse then why install anything bigger then a 10ga-8ga cable for the batt. relocation? 94
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Default Re: Battery Relocation (fcm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So what is the current draw of the Honda/Acura starter motor when temp. is below 32 degrees, [or as we say "below 0"], let me put that another way what is the current draw, if you start the car with your lights on?

With your reasoning if you don/t need anything bigger then a 60A-80A fuse then why install anything bigger then a 10ga-8ga cable for the batt. relocation? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, Also to add make sure you use a groment to run the power wire thru. This is why summit does not have a fuse. When I relocate the battery I never fused the starter. I modded a anl fuse to look stock to create a short. -I used a fuse block in the place of the stock battery- I fused the wire to the battery thats going thru the firewall with the same as stock and same for the alternator. I have not had anyone come back. I can draw it up if anybody wants.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (wrx-killer-Sti eater)

The battery fuse for the whole car is a 80A. If you hook up the battery backwards, this is the fuse you blow. So at no time is the car drawing enough current to approach that. I admit this is an assumption on my part and I could be wrong. Please set me straight if you know otherwise.

The fuse I'm using is a 100A because that was what was readily available.

I hook it up the same as fcm. 2 gauge wire to the starter, 8 gauge wire to the fuse box replacing the factory 10 gauge wire to the battery (makes your headlights nice and bright). I also remove the battery ground and mounting brackets, use the OEM grommet through the firewall with a hole cut in it, large diameter split loom on the entire wire with the ends taped first on wire, then the split loom to hold it in place. I also upgraded all the grounds, mostly 8 gauge in the engine bay to both frame rails on the key points of the engine (head, IM, alternator mount, thermostat, headlight grounds, valve cover, block, tranny, starter mount). Then in the trunk I have a battery box screwed down and then a strap for the battery. The power goes to a Tsunami ANL fuse holder with a voltmeter so I can keep an eye on the alternator and battery. 100A fuse. I have a terminal to split power to the small sub I have, fused. Then I have the battery ground to an emergency cut-off switch, jumpered with a 5A fuse to retain my radio and ECU memory if I want to pull the key out of the switch. The other side of that switch is grounded to each rear frame rail and to the sub.
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 09:36 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: Battery Relocation (suspendedHatch)

Thanks for all the help guys. Ive been busy but I got the battery 75% installed. I got a Kinetik HC600 for now in the trunk im going to get a Kinetik HC800. The 800 to start the car and the 600 for my suspension and lights and system (show car). For now im using 4 awg wire untill i get the other battery isolater and a new ho alt. but the battery is wired into a 100 amp breaker (makes it easier for me to disconnect the battery when im working on my car and 80 amp fuse when pop) then it goes into the engine where its connected to a ground distro block (no fuse) where the starter and fuse box connect 2. I used the same size starter wire just cut the ring terminal off. I upgraded the fuse box wire to 8 gauge. Now i just got to make a battery box that will fit both batteries and then ill be done. Thanks again!!!

Btw, if anyone has experience with air suspension hit my up i got a problem with the valves..
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