I'm pretty close on pulling the trigger on 2 JL 6W3 in a sealed box for my cars.
Nice lightweight setup for SQ.


(2) JL6w3 subs




Sealed enclosure @ .34cu



[img]Back of CRX[/img]

 

dont expect much bass. having a hatch will help your cause. jl is over priced and over rated. id buy these first. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=12184245
thats just my opinion though. they can handle more like 150 rms each if you give them clean power and mind the gains.

 

i'm a huge fan of the Ultra Car Audio LV-6, just waiting for the hybrid i6sw to hit the market

 

if they are real cheap, i'd do it just to be different.

 

I have owned both these subs and JL and the JL were much better IMO. The JL's I am talking about were old school 6W0's too.

 

I don't know about 6's but I had a set of JL audio 8w6's that sounded just as good as most 10's So I would expect the little six's to pack a nice little punch.

 

The box with subs weights only 25 Lbs !

Watch this...

you'll be surprised...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd-I3KNzK1g

http://www.youtube.com/user/HexiBase#p/u/46/dKQTo0w5sNE

This guy is an amazing sub box builder !

http://pwkdesigns.com/

 

jl 8's sound good if you use two or more. I did a 355 ferrari with 3 behind the the passanger and driver seat. really, in a small car its worth it.

I don't trust any vids I see on youtube. Its so easy to fake it. In a crx its easy to get big sound out of small or cheap speakers. Also we can't hear real bass thru a mic. So its reall hard to tell.

 

I have done a few JL 6.5" setups, from a single, [cab of excavator] to 4, [behind seat of 51 Ford PU] and all sounded very good.

Some say JL is over priced and/or over rated. I say you get what you pay for.

As for the TB 6.5", it is a 70W continues and 140W max speaker and I do not care how clean the power is, a 150W RMS is over-driving the speaker by more then 2 times and the speaker will not handel that for very long.

Although the TB speaker may be OK, I would put the JLs up against them anytime. 94

 

may work, may irritate you, depends on what you listen to. a 6.5" sub will not go very low or create any bass you really feel. it will however be very snappy and have great mid bass.

i usually try to use at least a single 8 in any system that i do for a couple of reasons.

1. they don't take that much more box space
2. they go much lower
3. they handle more power

i actually made a kicker L5 solobaric sound pretty good in an 8" verson. i was also given the 10 and 12" version which require WAY too large of box for most cars. after playing with size and port length on leap i was able to get a round idea of what to do with the 8 and the box wasn't that bid. i want to say around .75cu/ft with a pair of long 2" ports ?

JL's 8w7 is also seriously bad *** but does require some power to drive. the 8w3 is okay but doesn't like large amounts of power. i'd actually prefer the solobaric 8 over the 8w3 and i don't generally like kicker subs at all. they have been the boomy mud sub since the 90s. that also reminds me, remember the old kickers with the kicker name writen in across the dust cap? a guy i knew many years ago who later started engineering for phoenix gold actually benched one of those 15s and found to get the claimed response it required over 50cu/ft of box LOL

anyway, back to the real world. that pair of 6.5s isn't a bad idea, just wonder if you would be happier with one power absorbing 8

 

Since when is RMS an indicator of anything? That's just a thermal guideline. According to amazon, the sensitivity of the jl 6 is 80db. The tb is 83db. With that said, the tb will be twice as loud as the jl on the same power.

 

it's not all about volume, box design can do a lot, plus it all depends on the listening style of the OP.

 

Agreed

Box design is most important. In the perfect boxes, the tb would still be louder, though. I wouldn't be using a 6.5 for sub duty in the first place, but if i had to choose, i'd probably use the tb driver.

 

ROFL... Speaker efficiency has very little to do with a speakers output and a 3dB diff. even less, other T/S parameters make a much bigger diff. in a speakers output.

So you think that if you drive a 70W continuous, [RMS] speaker with a 150W it will not damage the speaker?

Now I am a firm believer in "it's better to be overpowered then it is to be underpowered" but more then twice the wattage will damage the speaker. 94

 

How often is the sub gonna see that full 150w? I could understand if you were playing test tones all day, but music is dynamic, and the speaker will not see that power very often. Now, if you're hammering on it all day then i can understand, but anyone with half a brain should be able to tell when a speaker is stressing. If you took a 100w speaker and simply played music through it flat with proper gain settings, then no, it shouldn't blow.

 

just to put it out there you will never get a flat frequency response with a sub unless you have a spectrum analyzer and plan on using a ported box.

is short you adjust box size and port length as needed to find the roll off you're after


you might be able to get close with a sealed box, they have a more tame roll off and generally work better guesstimated

they do however often have peaks at random frequencies in car interiors. of course it's sub to sub on where and how bad it is


i'm still curious what the theory is with a pair of 6s vs a single 8

if we're talking specifically JL the 8w7 will {at least i would bet} light up that pair of 6s

btw you can download the free version of boxplot to play around with box size and effect at least in theory.

 

Of coarse music is dynamic, that is why the "music power" of the speaker is 140W, normally twice continuous power handling, and your right, if, if, if, if I powered it with a 1000W amp and if I was careful and if I didn't turn up the gain and if the signal was clean and if, if, if, the speaker will not blow, that's a lot of ifs.

The manufacturer built the speaker to handel 70W continuous W/140W max and I would have no problem powering it with 75-100 watts RMS but 150W RMS is way too much, keep in mind the 150W RMS amp is fully capable of producing 300W of peak power so it's not if, but when will the speaker blow. nuff said. 94