Just bought an Amp kit.

This one to be exact: http://www.walmart.com/catalog...94327

It has a thing that goes on the battery post. How do I wire it? Do I cut my current wire going onto the post and wire it into the Connecter that came with the kit? I've read the directions but it just is not detailed enough. If anyone has used this kit help me out! the capaciter is kind of confusing as well. Pics of the thing that goes on my battery terminal are below so you get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance! V V V Pics of everything.

 

You don't have to use that specific terminal, it's a more permanent way of making a hard connection for the amp line. If you wanted to use that connector you would cut the factory wires off the old battery terminal and then insert them into that terminal and twist the bolts down, the problem is that (atleast for my 96 civic) the factory terminal has one 4ga line and then two 8ga lines that won't fit in the center port so you'd have to jam one in with the factory 4ga or the amp's power line... What you can do is get 4ga ring terminal from a car audio shop that you can crimp onto the 4ga wire and then have to bolted down using the factory battery terminal's tightening bolt. Also with that kit (I've purchased two for installs) you will need to get extra 4ga ring terminals for connecting the power/ground wires to the capacitor...

Oh on the display on the capacitor is an auto on/off type unit, it will turn on when the voltage changes and shut off once it stops fluctuating, so you don't have to worry about it draining the power. Just make sure to use the supplied resistor to "charge" up the capacitor to prevent sparking that could damage the terminals.

 

dude do you have ANY pictures of what you're telling me to do? it'd be so helpful man, seriously. i have about a 50% idea on what i'm doing and the other 50% is a big black hole of what the hell is this wire.

 

Forget the batt. terminal, go and get a 4ga ring terminal with a stud size, [hole in ring terminal] that matches the bolt on your stock batt. terminal, solder the ring terminal to the 4ga power lead and connect it to the stock batt. terminal.

As for the cap, once you have run the power lead to the back connect it to the caps pos.(+) terminal, then run a lead from the caps pos.(+) terminal to the amp, run a ground lead from the caps neg.(-) terminal and ground it along with the amps ground to the same ground point on the cars floor pan, seat and seat belt bolts work very well, once everything is wired install the resistor across the fuse holders terminals for a good 5 min. or more, then remove and install the fuse. 94

 

i went ahead and cut my stock battery terminal and wired the other one, works fine.

and for the cap thing so i run the power led coming from the batter to the + side of the cap then run the cble from the + side of the cap to the amp, run the ground lead from the caps - from the amp to the ground?

resister? is it the thing with two strands of metal on both side with a cylinder thing in the middle? and i just put one on one side of the fuse and one on the other?

thanks dudes, i really appericate it.

 

OK

To be clear, the cap ground and the amp ground should be grounded to the cars chassis, [floor pan] at the same place, keep both grounds as short as possible.

Yes the resistor is the "thing with two strands", and yes put one of the "strands" on one end of the fuse holder and the other "strand" on the other side of the fuse holder, leave the fuse out of the holder until cap is charged, [5 min. or so]. 94

 

didn't mean to aggrivate you man, i just barely have an idea on what i'm doing so using noobish slangs like "strand", etc would be more helpful, sorry man. for the most part, i think i figured it out.

the only problem now is the two blue wires hanging from my box are my speaker wires, but there is only two wire for two subs, shouldn't there be four?
how do i go about hooking these up to my amp? the right side or the left side? or one in each? i dont know. thanks guys.

these blue wires V V V

 

Not to worry, I am not aggravated, I understand what you mean, I try and use the same terminology as the OP so as not to confuse things, you know what you were talking about and so did I, no point in calling them anything else.

The two subs are wired together inside the box, sub bass is a mono signal so no need for a left and right side, check your amps wiring guide and wire the amp bridged that will normally mean the pos.(+) lead will go to one of the amps channels and the neg.(-) lead will go to the other channel.
What is the make and model of the amp? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the make and model of the amp? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

heres a link to it: http://www.millionbuy.com/ligb42502.html

i have everything wired (i think) but im just going to not use the cap. is that ok?

the only problem is i connected the blue power wire that came with the amp to the blue wire on my harness out of the back of my cd player and...nothing, no amp light or ****.

theres also a loose orange wire that has no where to go.. theres a blue wire on the harness coming out of the cd player, a blue wire from the amp and a blue wire from the wiring harness that you wire with the one out of the cd player

there is 3 blue wires and a orange wire, what the hell do i do?

 

got it working without the cap, seems to be fine, the light on the amp is green, the protect light is not on. i think thats good. my cd player gets a little bit hot on top and ****, what could that be from?

thanks to everyone that helped me. i really appericate it.

 

There is no reason the amp will not work without the cap, although if you have dimming light problems, [when bass hits] install the cap.

I would be willing to bet the HU is not getting the current it needs to work properly, lack of current will drive the HUs amp into clipping prematurely,. a clipping amp produces a lot of heat.

The problem is the stock constant power in the radio harness was not designed to deliver the current needed by a "high power" HU.
The fix is simple, run a fused 12ga power lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [yellow] to it, add a 12ga ground from the chassis of the HU to the chassis of the car, or use a metal "L" bracket from the back of the HU to the stock metal rear support brace.
The overheating problem should go away and SQ will improve. 94

 

the box i have now is the ported fiberglass box by duel.

it isn't too great, i have 2 12"s

whats some good dimensions for a box, i want smooth but hard at the right times.

 

Not sure what you mean by "dimensions for a box but box volume, [internal air space] is determined by the sub(s), [make and model] used, the actual box dimensions can be just about anything except a cube, the more non parallel/equal surfaces the better, EG; with a 1 cuft box the last thing you want is a 12"x12"x12" box, 24"x12"x6" with a least one angled surface. 94

 

does this help any?

Manufacturer: DUAL
Part#: XNBP-12D
Pkg Size: 29 X 18.5 X 16.5
Product Condition: Brand New, Full Warranty
UPC: 827204210093
( 0 Customer Reviews ) $123.99
MSRP $249.95
You Save (50.4%) $125.96Shipping $44.76




DUAL 12" BAND PASS ENCLOSURE

600W rms/1100W max power handling
Dual low-Q optimized drivers
Mirrored chamber, plexiglass window, and carpeted enclosure
12V blue glow illumination
4 port dual chamber design

 

That is probably the "optimum" band-pass cabinet for those speakers.
What is it you are wanting to do, put those subs in another type of box, sealed or vented? 94

 

sealed, the plexiglass rattles, i took it off it would sound good if it wasn't ported like it is.

any idea on box demnisions?

 

you must have a walmart credit card huh? lol, just messing with you. normally if the company makes the speakers and box it is usually the best size of box for the subs. you should go down to your local stereo shop and just check out some stuff and look at the box's they have. just to get a rough estimate of how big you want it

 

Can you get a model number for the subs themselves? 94

 

_ - _

i'd have to remove 62 screws to have the sub out (the front plexiglass has literally 40 something screws). so the model number is a no.

and to the other post. it's not the box, it's the plexiglass. the box is really tight so the bass is too. i'd rather have more of a bang then a thump.

thanks for the help, even though with the box it wasn't much. haha. i appericate it though, if you have an rough ideas on box dimensions, throw them it.

thanks again.

 

every think to maybe put a small bead of silicone on the edge of the plexi? might help

 

Having being a former dual 12" bent plexi bandpass box owner I can say, while it had it's fun (if you remove the tube extensions if possible and leave the short ports you will get very LOW defined bass) but no matter what I did the the box itself in the end I simply swapped the subs out for a sealed box ("built to the subs spec" common chamber 2 cu./ft. box) which sounded alot better (tho still boomy at some points, a dual sealed chamber box would sound better). I've found sealed boxes on ebay for really good deals (got a dual sealed chamber 12" box shipped for like 40 bucks and it's 3/4" mdf), just have to search for the ones that "match" the speakers specs if you can find them....

The main issue with that box (mine had cracked plexi at the screw down points) is the fact that the plexiglass allows flex and changes the box's overall internal cu./ft., the other issue is the ports creating the "bandpass". It's good for boom but not for punch or clarity (I always hated how you'd have to wait for the box to start broadcasting when doing a bass sweep but with my box it was always really low and was worth the wait lol)...

 

As mentioned ("built to the subs spec" common chamber 2 cu./ft. box about 1cuft per 12" driver is where I would start. 94

 

to the silicone idea, it's not the edges that rattle. it's the entire sheet of plexiglass.

thanks fcm and carbonized for the input

also, i don't know if this makes a difference, but my cars a 90' civic wagon and the trunk is open instead of closed. any idea on what would sound best for the way my trunk is?

 

I would go with a sealed box, subs facing the rear. 94

 

what about a sealed box with the box facing the front and the subs flipping the rear

| = the box
&gt; = the subs
h = my seats

|&gt;h

my subs flipped the entire way with the cone side hitting into the inside of the box, i know theres a name for this but i dont know it.